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Re: MDS roller lifter failure update!!! [Re: HotRodDave] #3126315
03/03/23 11:59 PM
03/03/23 11:59 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 421
montana
BANDIT Offline
mopar
BANDIT  Offline
mopar

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 421
montana
I purchased a 2014 2500 a couple years back that owner had been told by dealer that it needed a motor. No MDS. Had the dreaded tick, ran great. Had 120,000 miles on it. I put a reman long block in, and sent core back, really kicking myself after reading Dave's info. Jim.


64 Dodge Coronet 440. In progress
1998. Dodge Avenger. 8.35@165. 4400 DA
250” Neil and Parks Slip Joint. 7.36@183.
4600 DA
242" Mullis Dragster. 6.90@ 200mph
Re: MDS roller lifter failure update!!! [Re: HotRodDave] #3126412
03/04/23 11:56 AM
03/04/23 11:56 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Mesa , Az
Jambbii Offline
mopar
Jambbii  Offline
mopar

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
Mesa , Az
Originally Posted by HotRodDave
Originally Posted by WayneM
Originally Posted by HotRodDave
Originally Posted by WayneM
Just jumping in here to wrap my head around this disastrous phenomenon. I just experienced lifter failure in my ‘14 RT Durango. Details in my “reintroduction” post. I am not very fluent in 3G Hemi details, terminology and descriptions, but I know it’s MDS.
One thing I picked up on before things started making noise was that it seemed that I couldn’t control the MDS with my eco button, and the engine sounded like it was flubbering like it normally sounds when it cuts cylinders.
I’m trying to attach a video of what it sounded like when I took action. I really thought it was a belt pulley, which is why I took the belt off to run it.
I’m really upset this happened to me.



The MDS has NOTHING TO DO WITH IT!!! Millions of hemis were made with MDS that last 200,000+ miles without lifter failure from 2008 back. There are also plenty of 2009 and up ram 2500 and 3500 without MDS that still experience failed lifter rollers.

What is the production date on the door jam in your durango?

Also this is not really an engine destroying event, I have bought them with flat cam lobes and driven them thousands of miles to get em home and bearings and everything still look like new, just stick in a cam and lifters and go but most shops don't want to dig into an engine or worry about all the metal going through the engine but it just ain't what happens on these things. They claim it is because there is grey stuff on the magnets but in reality that stuff is there even on a perfectly good engine and is the reason there are magnets there in the first place.


I’m pretty sure it’s 4/14 production. I really wanted mine to get further than it did! I did an engine oil analysis at 80k and was told that I had an excellently wearing engine then. I was told that the amount of shrapnel on that oil valve behind the engine is the deciding factor for sticking a cam or replacing the whole long block.


I bought one in Tuscon (2 day drive) that the owner was told the same thing by a dealer, drove it back checked the bearings and they looked like new but it had the grey fuzz on the magnets, cleaned all 4 magnets, stuck in a 6.4 cam and its still running awesome 5 years later. It was my experiment to see if a 6.4 cam would work in a 5.7 after hearing it wouldn't work but got no explanation why it wouldn't. I got tired of reading things on the internet and decided to check stuff out for myself and found out there is a whole world of things that work great. I have torn these things apart with as little as 19,000 miles to build a stroker and seen the same grey fuzz on those magnets.





I had the cam out on my 12 with 80k (cylinder head issues) and it showed signs of the lifter failing. Replaced with the 6.4 cam like you said (was under 200 bucks at the time) and have 25k on it now. Jay Greene eventually did the tuning but it runs great!


70 Challenger
1960 Town Wagon P Pump 24v cummins project
06 Mega 3500 Drw 2wd
12 Durango R/T
18 Power Wagon
67 A100
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