Wow, looks brand new, especially the band. Can't believe there is 700 runs on it. Good for you. Also goes to show how good a 727 is even when a converter fails and sends metal through it.

I was very surprised when I had sent converter metal through my trans this past month that nothing inside looked bad at all. The only place I found metal was in the pan, and in the cooler lines. I was lucky and didn't need to change the pump, which was my main concern when I saw all the steel in the pan.

Happy nothing other than the pump needed replaced. Do you have a spare converter to put in?

There was very little metal. Some inside the rear drum and some behind the governor support. It was all fine dust. I wanted to wash out all the Torrington's and the roller bearings in the governor support and tail shaft housing. Speaking of the roller bearing in the governor support. Originally the lube hole to the rear shaft was restricted by the roller bearing. My friend Paul again worked his magic on the governor support and whipped up a spacer to keep the roller captured in the right spot. Here's the pics and his work on the sun shell as well.
Doug

I have absolutely no idea what any of this stuff is, but nice to see a detailed post about it.

LMAO!

Great post Doug! I'm still learning about the innards of these 727s...posts like these help a lot.

Jeff!!

Really appreciate the detailed pics, I'm trying to learn as well and this is all super helpful!

So a few mods I do. Pic 1 is the reaction shaft support. This a 71 or newer wide bushing version. The oil feed hole to the front clutch has been widened. Its done with a used cut off wheel that's worn down to about 1 1/2 " diameter. Or the high end guys can mill it. This also gives a good shot of the reaction shaft ring grooves. They are square and smooth. this can be verified by inserting the ring in the groove and holding it up to the light. You also want to look inside and see where the input shaft rings ride. That area should be smooth as well. The 2nd pic is the OE front pump vent. Drill it with a R drill. Then tap for 1/8 pipe and plug with an Allen plug. I'll go into detail where to locate it in the next post. Pic 3 is what's left of the parking gear/governor support. All cut down to reduce weight. We did cut a new snap ring groove in the output shaft further forward to retain it. The last pic is the accumulator blocker rod. You can really use anything. A piece of rod, an old bolt. Just make sure its not to long that it holds the valve body up off the case.
Doug

Doug…. What’s your feelings on oil relief holes in the drums (help evacuate fluid/centrifugal weight)? Both of my older Lofgren builds had them including the 904 I’m currently beating on.

I've never used them. How much oil is in the drum when the piston isn't applied? Good question. However the only time pressurized oil is in the drum is when the clutch is applied. That clutch pack always applys plenty quick. We all know the dreaded overlap. So why do we need them? Maybe someone smarter than me can shed some light.
Doug

Thanks for sharing this. Very appreciated.

B&M found a decrease in parasitic loss in first gear with the holes.

In 1st gear, the front clutch retainer turns at 80% of the input shaft speed in the opposite direction, so this means that the released clutches see a surface speed of 180% of input shaft speed; the trapped fluid in the drum creates lots of parasitic drag so drilling peripheral holes allows the trapped fluid to escape. I drill 3/16" holes in a staggered row.

Nowadays, lots of builders place small pieces of rubber tubing between the disc floater ears to help keep the discs separated but the trapped fluid is still there with no place to go.

how do those holes in the drum affect it's balance ?

Evenly spaced around the periphery, no balance change.

This is a good thread......you learn something every day,i look at one of john cope videos on a 46/47 transmission rebuild video where he did some mods on it. he modified the input shaft, hub by enlarging the holes. Never seen a modified drum like that.

I've long thought about the silicone O ring material between the high gear clutch stack up. The clutch drag would certainly be reduced in 1st and 2nd. I may drill the holes on the next go round as well. A lot of this stuff gains very little in ET. But all together you can see something. Got some time today and putt he trans back in. spent some time making sure the converter lined up properly fore/aft. On the 2 Mega blocks that I've used the rear block face is to short. Both of them required 1/8 aluminum spacers between the trans and block. Other wise the starter gear engages the flywheel teeth about 1/2 way. Also some converters bottom in the crank. Spacing the trans back also allows you to space the converter rearward from the flex plate to gain crank to snout clearance. Another mod is to drill the lower trans to engine mounting holes. then you can use a 3/8" bolt and nut instead of trying to put the 7/16" bolt through from the engine side. Many times the headers interfere with bolt removal in this area. It takes a little case clearancing around Where the bolt head will seat. A small head or allen bolt works well. A hole saw makes for a nice radius for the converter access.
Doug

To add the RH46/518 repop pans are nice and cheap to boot. They are deeper than anything else. Structurally strong against leaks with a reusable gasket. Mines still using the same gasket from 2013. They do need a little notching for cable shift transmissions near the park housing. Being deep we made (Paul again) a longer 1 3/4" filter spacer.
Doug

I’m also a fan of the 47/48RE pan….. especially when there were some trans that’s didn’t have a core charge at work so they were free .
Doug I tagged you on a cable shift 727 for sale on FB. Not sure if there any hard to find specific parts with those. Not like they’re laying around like they used to be

Thanks for the interesting notes on the oil reliefs John….. but I can’t read that without hearing cliff clavins voice! great stuff!

Doug,

Nice autopsy man! Even though I don’t run a 727, I’ve learned some new stuff for sure. Thank you for taking the time to share.

Wes

Do those pans fit 727?
What brand part number for the spacer if you don't mind sharing that info?

I have the same spacers in mine. I believe from Cope Racing Trans.

The aluminum Summit pan I picked up last year looks to be as deep as that one based on the filter extension size, but doesn't have a sweet reusable gasket like that one. I like it!