Hello, my friend has a 15 Jeep, I believe a Wrangler, that has a no start, no crank issue, about 85k miles. He was driving down the road and it just quit. It wouldn't even crank after this. He got it home and tried again. It started and ran for a few seconds at idle, started idling rough then quit again. Currently not even cranking. He did tried to research it online and found it to be a pretty known issue with Jeeps but no one explains in detail what is going on. There are no engine codes, just check engine light. He was thinking possibly fuel pump but thought he heard it prime up at the turn of key, not positive though. Did find out that a bad fuel pump will not throw a code. His next plan was to get a gauge on the fuel system to check if he gets any pressure. Would no fuel pressure not all keep the engine from cranking? Anyone experience this and have the know fix? Local mechanics want to charge 150 an hour just to diagnose. Who knows how long it could take it find the issue(s).

How old is his battery? The newer cars a known for going through batteries and when they do you get all kinds of strange stuff happening.

Last May we had a fuel pump failure on the wife's '15 Hemi Durango. But it would absolutely crank over well, just no start. We had it towed to the dealer, they diagnosed it pretty quickly. I've no idea the diagnosis cost since it's under mopar warranty gold program. The receipt doesn't even list any hours.

This would be for a 2015 wrangler 3.6

with code U0168:

1. Check the power and ground supplies at the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) which is also called the Wireless Control Module (WCM). This is located near the ignition lock cylinder.

2. Check the two bus wires for 2.5 volts on each wire.

3. Verify the ignition switch position changes voltage as the key is turned into the various positions.

_________________________________________________________________________________

with codes P0513, B1A25 and B1A29:

1. The code indicates a problem with the key - which on this vehicle is called a Fobik or an internal failure of the Wireless Control Module (WCM). A quick test on the Fobik would be to see if the customer has another programmed Fobik to try. If the vehicle now starts and runs, the Fobik (or its battery) has failed.

2. Access the WCM data stream. Check the "Bussed Outputs" information. Check the key positions as the key is turned to each position and verify that it displays the proper key position. Check the "SKREEM Status" it should display "Normal Status". Check "Valid SKIM Key" it should show "Yes" or "True".

3. If all of these items are normal, then the WCM has failed. Be aware that any Fobik or WCM replacement will require programming with a compatible scan tool. You will need to obtain a Personal Identification Number (PIN) for the vehicle as well.

4. Also check Powertrain Control Module (PCM) operation. At key on, the PCM broadcasts the VIN. If the PCM has a weak power or ground, this could delay signals to the WCM. Check the powers and grounds at the PCM.

Ill pass on the info thanks, but he says there are no codes showing up. I will get back to you if he finds a solution or if a mechanic figures it out.

[align:left][/align]its not fuel, because it would crank, 1st thing to check is the battery with a multi meter and check for voltage, then at the fuse box to see if power is traveling thru the cables.and of course the grounds too. Try this
https://youtu.be/72O5ALGF0Ho

No crank no start is not indicative of a fuel problem. This is going to be electrical or electronic in nature. Start with the battery, make sure it has 12.6 volts and can pass a load test. Check the terminals, I've had just barely loose terminals cause a no-crank concern. Check the battery connection in the TIPM as well, I've seen those loose.

If all that is good then you gotta go into the modules with a good scan tool, not just a code reader. Like MoonshineMattK said, you need to check to see if the SKREEM/WCM module is seeing the key in the ignition and properly handshaking with the PCM. Any sort of mismatch between the SKREEM/WCM and the PCM will fail the security check and not allow the engine to crank.

It may also be a failed ignition switch. You'd have to use a scan tool to see if the SKREEM/WCM is seeing proper changes of state for the ignition switch as you turn the key.

If it died while driving I'd be inclined to check all the connections, battery, and verify that the alternator is working before diving into the electronics. Once the vehicle is started the security aspect of the SKREEM-PCM is no longer necessary.

Update,

He changed the fuel pump, can at least hear the pump running. He can crank it but no start. Second attempt it ran then shut off and won't turn over. I told him about the battery, he said he checked it and it was good. It did originally shut off when he was driving. I will pass along the new recommendations. Thanks again.

Update 2...Jeep back up and running. The ECM was bad.

Thanx for the resolution

And thanks for the update

NAILED IT