with the engine out of my charger, i had thought this would be a good time to add snout bars [from the firewall to the front of the K-member attaching rails].
if there is no bar or cage in the car, will this be another wasted time and effort idea i have come up with ?
would there be any advantage at all with these bars ?
i just thought it would be lots easier to do without the engine in the road.
TIA for those out there WAY smarter than this old fart.

Does it have frame connectors in it ?
I don’t think they would do much without a cage

frame connectors are built, but not in yet.
i am planning to tie the connectors to the rockers, and also installing torque box plates.
i may, or may not put a simple roll bar in.
Thank You for the reply.

Useless without a cage to tie them to through the firewall. The firewall is the flimsy part.

Without a cage to tie the snout bar to I think it kinda defeats the purpose of the snout bar. Personally I wouldn't install a snout bar without a cage.

IF you want the snout bars, remove the dash from the car. Plate each side (a pillar, dash level) Run a bar between those plates. Land your snout bars on that dash bar. WHen building the cage, it is ok to have the A pillar bars notched to fit the dash bar as it goes fully across the car. A lot of cars are built this way.

My 68 Barracuda with a lift off front end has the snout bars welded to the firewall with a plate and connected straight to the frame rail. Was like this when I purchased the car in the 80's. When I bought it it had a nice roll bar but I later replaced the roll bar with a cage. I did not tie the cage to the front snouts. This car has hundreds and hundreds of runs as quick as the nines and I see no damage what so ever to not having the front bars tied to the cage. I'm sure tying the bars to the cage is best but I would definitely consider the firewall to the frame as an option.

This is how we built mine also.

If the car has full inner fenders still in it, marginal increases unless you plan to competitively race the car. Racing the car, you'll need a bar in most case, then tie in there.

Just to have a hot streeter, more cool factor than function. JMO

Think about how much chassis flex occurs while turning and driving into driveways and loading the car onto the trailers
I wouldn't want to take a chance of harming the firewall with the snout bar only pushing on it instead of pushing on another bar going to the cage

I think everything else you are doing will be far more effective, and sufficient for a street car .

One thing I wish I would have done was to go outside the fender aprons for the snout bars under the fenders as it makes for a tight fit to get the rocker covers off of the Hemi with them within the engine bay.

thank you all !
the replies given has made my mind think clearer about the stresses incurring at the firewall without a cage bar backing up the snout bar.
i had somewhat thought about this being a problem, but as the inner fenders are still there [and will remain] i wasn't sure what might happen.
and as to further thoughts about adding a simple roll bar in the future, well, i have a ton of other things to do before or if that happens..........

Pretty sure these helped keep the front fenders springing into the doors after aborting a few big wheelstands. They are connected to the cage and plated to the fire wall. They're too big, the car is caged out in 1 3/4" CDS steam pipe and this contributes greatly to it's overall weight (4023lb at the line). One day I'll get a CM cage and pick up 2 tenths

This is the way mine run, but further out to the front frame rails. Tig due you have interference with the tires running them this way when making turn (like off the track onto the return roads)?

No Issues, but then again I haven't run anything wide on the front for years. We ran a 29" tall front on a 4" rim (it was nearer 30" tall unloaded) it caught the fender on full lock, we had to raise the front a little to clear it. The mount is the opposite the motor plate mount, TBH I cant see it adding any strength there. I had planned to weld a bracket to the snout bar to connect to the upper corner of the motor mount, that will have to wait till the next time though.

Thanks

Mine attach under the fender. Then come thru the inner fender landing above the front K frame bolt. Tied to the front down bars of the cage, firewall, and shock tower. The down bars are attached to the lower windshield structure as well. No clearance issues or engine bay restriction. If i had thought about it I would've extended the motor plate to these bars as well. Had to cut a hole in the A pillar just in front of the upper door hinge to access the welds at the dash bar/snout/down bar junction. Then welded the cut out portion back in.
Doug

Dude, that is immaculate
I may want to copy that on my next locally constructed street and strip car