This is for '70 E-body, I got the Energy Suspension front bushing kit 5.3112g

Is this how it goes together in the picture, grease everything up and push it all together ? I'm not missing any washers or anything am I ?

The outer shell is in the LCA and the inner shell is on the spindle.

You MUST use that thick and gooey white/clear urethane paste-grease or these will S-q-u-e-a-k !

Thanks Kern Dog, I bought an extra tub of that stuff, they never give you enough with those itty bitty packets.

Sand the rubber out off the inner and outer shells.

I sanded then polished mine. Never squeak since 1997.

Agreed More is better and wipe off the excess after assembly.
BTW Great stuff isn't it? I've even thought of putting it on door knobs, car door handle's of those that have uhh PMO. Also be great on a co-workers tools, tool box drawers etc.

"Also be great on a co-workers tools, tool box drawers etc. "


so YOU are the guy that was always greasing my office door knob at work !

Your assy process is correct, however I recommend you purchase the front 2 pc strut rod poly package, the stock strut rod bushings in the K frame will splay the LCA's rearward when you start to mount everything up

DAYCLONA, I was leaning against doing those on the strut rod, but this is my first rodeo.

Are you saying the stock rubber bushings don't compress quite enough ?
I see that the OE setup does not appear to have any length adjustability.

Well guess what, I found a new set of Moog K7026 strut rod bushings,
I think I bought these about 25 years ago.

Performance Suspension Technology, p-s-t.com, has adjustable strut rods for $325 a pair

Anybody tried them ?

NOT ME I wouldn't do such a thing to a decent person

The problem with those IMO is you are side loading the bushing to achieve adjustment (usually more caster) that was not designed in. If you desire more adjustment I would recommend Adjustable upper control arms.

Side loading the LCA bushing, OK I see that.

Our cars have, unfortunately, not the greatest front suspension geometry. The fulcrum axis of the strut rod is not co-linear with the the torsion bar axis,
so the LCA bushing is going to be deformed anyway by the different arcs of movement of the LCA and the strut rod, moving up and down. Oh well.

I was just thinking about ease of assembly. I guess it's not that bad.

Hmmm, if putting ‘grease’ on the bushing what keeps the LCA from coming off? Or at the very least moving back and forth? There’s a reason the pin is so hard to get out when replacing.

Exactly the reason why I wouldn't put poly bushings on the front end of a street driven car ... but that's me .

People that swear by them say they don't move back and forth ....

The rubber is the part that twists or moves. Not much since the wheel should only move up and down 3-4” in normal day to day driving, I doubt many do Dukes of Hazard jumps everyday.

Torsion bar keeps the LCA in place....

I do not use this system, I replace with NOS lower control arm bushings. It's not that difficult. I have seen cars with them on and they did move.
my 2cents
Bob

I thought this debate was put to bed years ago and the poly lost due to squeaks and movement. Seems not.

I've used both polyurethane and poly graphite-impregnated on other cars and never had a squeak.
The issue of movement, of either the T-bar or the LCA, is new to me.