Just got my TTI shorty headers for my 67 Charger/440. Still have the old threaded header studs in, but the TTI kit came with header bolts. What do ya think...take the old ones out and go with the header bolts? Which is better, or does it make no difference? I am sure getting the headers in minus the old threaded studs will be easier...but am scared to snap off one of the old ones getting them out. Also...for those of you who have installed the TTI's before....are the mating surfaces supposed to look like a 2 year old did them? Mine seem flush, but the workmanship looks kind of amateur with uneven weld seams and marks. Is this common? Hoping to get them loose fit tonight....
Dave in Colorado

What cylinder heads are you using? I’m using studs with aluminum heads, I guess cause studs are stock It does make installing the headers a little more difficult tho. As long as the actual mating surface is milled flat, there shouldn’t be any problems there. If I recall correctly, my tti’s were nicer than the Hedman’s I took off

Its currently running factory heads....

My preference is studs...
Makes installing the gasket so much easier, just slide the gasket and header on, put the nuts and torque down.

Just my $0.02...

I assume those are made in China. When I called in June they said they are "in production". I said when will they be ready? He said last September. I'm sure the girl that made them was 12 not 2 though.

Use studs wherever you can and bolts in the rest.

Studs, definitely - especially anything that goes into coolant.

Studs it is. My only issue, and one that I had when I pulled the old headers off, is the as mentioned coolant. The header bolts that were in it were super short, and had silicone all over them (the rears had bolts, everything else is studs). The bolts in the TTI kit are a little longer, so hoping that helps. Should I still put some silicone RTV or a thread sealer on, or wait and see if it seals itself? Nothing worse than a coolant leak....

All 12 exhaust manifold holes are wet so you need to either use studs in every hole and bottom them out so coolant won't leak past the threads or use a good thread sealer on any header bolts you use
Most of the new aluminum heads have blind holes for the exhaust bolts, no sealer needed as they do not go into the water jacket in the heads
BTW, there may be one or up to 4 holes in those headers that need bolts instead of studs, seal them rascals up good

Got it!
Thanks everyone. Hope to have it running again tomorrow!

Remember that part where I said I was afraid to snap off one of the studs......SON OF A B@&*^H! Front passengers side did not make it to 30ft lbs on the torque...snapped clean off. It was the last one I was torquing on the passengers side. Of Course.

Agreed....

Sounds like my luck.

I just installed a set of Schumacher shortys so I put studs in. One head had one stud in it so I left it alone but I knew it was going to be trouble. After putting in the other 11 studs and torqueing them, I went to put the nut on that pre-existing one and it just sort of fell out. I put a longer stud in it and it threaded in way past the shoulder and I couldn't torque it. Now I'm afraid to torque the nut because it doesn't seem to be getting tighter although the stud isn't turning. I figure I'm down to the last good thread in that hole and don't want to pull that one out too.

I prefer to use studs in places where I can. Sometimes the header design doesn't allow room to use a stud so than an bolt has to be used.

i would just helicoil and move on.

While I understand the concern of using using bolts in place of studs. I've bee doing do for 50 years without issue. I normally use a high temp sealer (copper or red). Using a wooden Q-tip I put a small amount in the threaded hole and on the end of the bolt, install and "elbow torque". Can't say I remember ever having an issue and if I did, drain the coolant, repeat the above on the offending bolt. Much easier than drilling out a broken stud in the car IMO
Most headers I've seen over the years do not give enough clearance to use a regular sized nut and require the bolts with undersize heads

studs and using flange nuts with undersized hex here.
i just make sure i use the proper length stud for the intended header.

SBC stud kit hanging on the wall at the speed shop, stud 5/16” nuts were 7/16” hex & 1/4” thread with serrations on the back. They never got loose. Those nuts where great for tight spots too.

Always use studs if you can. Sometimes you can't.

I use a combination of studs different length since they go into water jacket mr gasket makes a 3/8 stud with a 1/4/28 7/16 nut

That’s the one I use