Thanks.

I will bend it back down.

I can honestly say I have watched more videos on using a table saw than on any other single purpose.

I had a friend who had 4 fingers shortened when I was younger. He left me with a permanently etched paranoia about table saws. So all the warnings and cautions are not being ignored.

I have learned a lot from this project.

Thanks again for the help

Find the make and model and look on line for the manual. That tab that is popping up looks like some sort of lock. What does the saw table look like where it sits?

Unfortunately the Model tag is missing.

What I do know is it is an old Model 113 10" saw.

The tab at the rear holds the back of the plate to the table and the lever/tab at the front holds the front to the table.

I have reviewed all the images of similar models and owners manuals and none of them have the tab.

It appears to be a latch to hold the front of the plate down. You have to lift the tab to remove the plate.

I wasn't finding any information on it so I figured I would ask in case I was wrong.

you can make your own insert out of plywood, about same thickness as you old one. Cut and fit, shim to get level if needed, and install. Slide the fence over the side, start the saw and crank the blade up, giving you a zero clearance slot. Go a little higher, and then drop the blade to where needed. Have had several of different slot sizes for years, and they work great. USE A PUSH STICK!!! Make some (a lot) out of 1/8 or 1/4 masonite or plywood, they are a consumable. Keep your fingers away from the blade!!

Both of your questions have been well answered. The hole in the back very likely had a combination blade guard, splitter and anti kickback pawl contraption that is so unwieldy that they are often removed after making the first few cuts. Mine is in a bin with other rarely used table saw attachments.

Your throat plate has too wide of a slot for the blade. It was possibly made for a dado or shaper blade. Make a new one out of wood or plastic and then raise the blade up through it to make the perfect size slot. What you have now is asking for a kickback if you are ripping a narrow piece.

Years ago a kickback broke through a fingernail and put a hole my finger that exposed the bone. X-rays showed the end bone of my road rage finger was in 7 pieces. The emergency room had to call in an Ortho specialist to line everything up and splint it. Not fun. To this day that finger nail looks a little odd. Years before that episode a kickback hit me in the chest pretty hard. I remember thinking it was a good thing that piece wasn't mitered on the end.

Saw Safety Tips:. Some learned the hard way.
Caution when cutting short and/or narrow pieces. They can get cocked between the blade and the fence and get spit out.
Use chicken sticks when you can. I keep several near the saw at all times.
I use the table saw for rips and sheet goods. I hardly ever use my miter gauge. It hangs on the wall. Cross cuts and miters are so much easier and safer with a good sliding power miter saw.
If you ever need to use a radial arm saw DO NOT rip with it. It is an accident waiting to happen. Only use it like it is an old fashioned sliding power miter saw. Just because you can rip with it does not mean you should. Just don't.