Set the ride height with the bars level in the middle hole, this will give you adjustability up and down later on.

This is the most important. I would not have the bars pointing down as in your drawing unless you want a wheelstander.

N2Omstr 100% agreed thats what i said . albeit, differently


this is my modified bracket, the notch on the bottom is for a kicker (brace) to the frame rail about 14" forward of the crossmember
sorry for sideways pic

If the bar is level/down/up to the ground actually means squat. Where the front mount hole lays on the anti-squat line determines what the suspension will do. If it's above the anti-squat line it will separate. If it's below the anti-squat line it will squat. With most available rear ladder bar housing brackets this point usually ends up with the bar being level to the ground. That's why most people say level to the ground is a good staring point. but in fact it's a guess. Lengthen or shorten the bar? That point now needs to go down (shorter bar) or up (longer bar) to remain on the center of the Anti-squat line. Personally I'm not a fan of ladder bars on the street. A ladder bar set-up is a giant anti-roll bar. The housing can't roll rotate going around corners or up steep inclines while turning. This puts a lot of stress on joints, mounts, welds, and the bars themselves. It also induces over steer in hard cornering. Can it be done? Yes. But Caltracks or a 4 link is a better option for the street. Track only? They work great. As far as gusseting. I'd triangulate the front cross member at a 30-45 degree angle forward to the frame. Also nice to have the cage bars land on top of the ladder bar mount.

Doug