I got my Savoy to stay under 210 most of the time with a 26" radiator, flow cooler HV pump, 440 Source repo pulleys that are 1-1, and a 190 stat. Still no shroud and it runs cool all day yesterday at 89 degrees for a 1 hour cruise. I just replaced 1 thing at a time until it ran cool.
I found that the rust in my block kept filling my radiator with scale. I installed a coolant filter in my upper hose and I have emptied it 4 times already. It is clear so I can also monitor the flow rate of my coolant. The Flow-Kooler pump really moves some coolant at idle . I understand the fear of anything over 200 but it really isn't dangerous,230-230 yeah you can start to worry about that if it doesn't cool down

Gus

Ultimate fix, Gotta work,


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I think everyone is trying to convince him it's OK to run a bit hotter. He's convinced everyone is wrong. He's also convinced that all the suggestions made so far are wrong. I'm convinced there's no solution to his perceived problem. He's attempting to fix a problem that doesn't exist.

I also get a little worried when the temp gauge starts to go over 180. I know it can run hotter, but sitting in traffic during local events and nowhere to turn into if the temp starts to spike is a little concerning to me.

"He's convinced everyone is wrong." This is one problem with people today who have a deficiency in reading comprehension. Where did I reject suggestions except it's fine to run an old motor at 220 plus degree's. New cars with redesigned systems run fine at 220 plus. Old iron was not designed for that. As stated earlier if My Dodge goes over 210 the stock gauge would be pegged..hence it's trying to show the car is far out of it's "safe" operating temp and action is advised...like a "check engine"or " overheat" lite for all the youngsters.

Anyone who cares to run an old engine at 210 plus "all day" is fine with Me as I know what the end results will be. I am trying to run My Dodge at manufacturer recommended specs.

Search moparts....how many more times do we repeat ourselves...................
Some of us run instrumentation instead of guessing so there is real world data. Hi res AF gauges, digital hi res tachometers, IR temp guns etc.
the thermostat controls the "minimum" operating temp.....

At 195- 210 the fuel burns completely and the air fuel ratio is is not bouncing all over because fuel was collecting in the intake due to the engine being too cold.

This has been posted before and now posted again. Actually I must be lucky managing high hp cars that run laps at 195- 210 that never overheated or blew up. Actually we had 2 of those "hot" engines apart for other issues and they were clean and did not have the "cold engine smell" that engines get when run under temp ...must be a mistake

High under the hood engine temps are the real problem not the operating temp of the engine.
The temp gage will show normal but when the hood goes up everything is cooking

What are these two statement's telling you?



You do not have enough air flow threw the radiator! That could be the fan or the fan is not moving enough air standing still or at slow speeds. You need to figure that out or go with an electric fan.

Well...that was the original question..then some great input..then the urinary olympics....I did try again the high idle test when warm...earlier I stated that it didn't drop the temp. This time the temp gauge was at 190 and I put the car in neutral..ran at 1400 for a minute or so and the temp dropped almost 10 degrees...so in My original post I asked about electric fan being able to push air at the equivolent of 30 to 35 mph driving speed..what CFM that would be. 3 pages later there was no reply to that portion, possibly because I wrote I was not excited about elecrtric fans.

One post was good as I know now my upper pully is larger than the lower. The lower is 6.5 and I can"t find so far, a larger crank pulley and the waterpump pulley is 7.0. I have a 6.5 waterpump pully in the garage so that will be changed so the fan will rotate faster at idle.. It will be a 1/1 ratio rather than less than one.If anyone has a larger crank pulley for a 67 BB with power steering..no air I would be interested. 2 groove

Running cooler at high idle in neutral can indicate an air flow issue, but it can also indicate too much heat from the torque converter if your motor is cammed up and idling high.

are you using a coolant recovery system now ?
this is an overflow tank that introduces the expanding coolant into the tank from the bottom, then with the double gasketed radiator cap, when the coolant cools down, it is returned into the radiator.
this will eliminate air in the system, thus allowing it to run cooler.
the factory system always had an air pocket below the radiator cap, and any excess coolant in the system was expelled onto the ground via the overflow hose.
maybe this will help you maintain your targeted temperature, or get closer to it.

[quote=moparx]are you using a coolant recovery system now ?
this is an overflow tank that introduces the expanding coolant into the tank from the bottom, then with the double gasketed radiator cap, when the coolant cools down, it is returned into the radiator.
this will eliminate air in the system, thus allowing it to run cooler.
the factory system always had an air pocket below the radiator cap, and any excess coolant in the system was expelled onto the ground via the overflow hose.
maybe this will help you maintain your targeted temperature, or get closer to it.


mild cam...new converter....recovery tank installed years ago...engine idles at 800 rpm