Just a play on words. Power Wagon Ha Ha

This is my nephew, Christopher's 78 D150 318 that someone put a god awful thumper noisy pig of a cam in.
He has been itchin for a big block, big tire truck so his Dad, my Brother Ricky (Copper Dart on Moparts) built him a very respectable 440. I am tasked with the install and fab for it.

It runs but the rear u joint failed so it does not drive, I had to get creative to work very little getting it into my shop😎

Step one is establish stance, so wheels and tires are first on the list and we are doing the van front LCAs. Ladderbar coil-over rear. Tires are 31 13.5 on 12" Prostars replacing 28-12.5 protracs. tubs were my first cut to make space for the rubber. It will have plenty of room to go bigger

If you take passenger car front spring hangers and mount them under the frame in the same location as the truck front spring hangers, then the same for the rear spring hangers and use passenger car shackles. You can put a stock width (B or E body) rear axle assembly on top of the springs and wind up with a "tubbed" truck for minimal effort and cost.
The truck pictured had 32X14's

That's the first time Ive heard that. very simple solution very clever!!!. I like the Dana too. We decided to go Ladderbar and coil over route for upgrade-ability in the future. i will be centering the wheels in the opening so going to a bigger tire will not be an issue.

NOTE: added a few pics from prior to making this thread, and have edited & inserted some pics for clarity


these pics show the position of a standard front bracket in relation to the rear axle maintaining a level or nose down position for the ladderbars. my new (truck) pattern and the existing front bracket contrasting the difference. ( any interested party I can fab a set for fee PM for detail)

Stripped everything off the frame rails that may be in the way, thr rearmost crossmembers will be bolted back into place temporarily until I get the suspension installed
Then it will come out to install the fuel cell.

Thats how we did it in 1986!

It has been months but work and obligations always come first. I had a few days open so I took the opportunity to get some fab done. I hope to wrap this up by end of February and get this thing driving again. (depending on getting shortened axles)

For driveshaft clearance I sectioned the crossmember, the outer ladderbar brackets were welded on both sides to get complete penetration then I welded the inner bracket to get maximum penetration as welding between the brackets is challenging.

installed the crossmember , modifying and welding the existing chassis members together adding gussets and kickers. there will be more welded in front of the crossmember once i get it off the jackstands.

tacked the inner axle brackets and set pinion angle, mocked up multiple positions to achieve the best initial set -up from here I have use and adjustment to the bottom 4 holes. Had this been a car with a lower stance all 5 holes would be easily achieved. The truck's overall geometry poses challenges for the fitment. My extended front brackets helped immensely and allowed me to mount the front crossmember into the factory framerail.

This ladderbar "KIT" comes with a diagonal link. Curious to those familiar, would you do a Panhard Bar or stick with the diagonal link? this truck is a weekend warrior suburbs of Atlanta. maybe a few passes but mainly street fun.

would the panhard bar pull the rear sideways too much in operation it would impact stress on the brackets, causing weld or bracket fractures ?

Your rear suspension has a lot of adjustability, why not set up to use both?

The diagonal bar would be stable enough and still allow all the adjustability for the few trips to the strip, but probably lacks the stability needed for the street. The Panhard bar adds the stability for the street, but will reduce the adjustability for the strip, but it would have to be added after the primary rear end set up for the street use, for the best street set up.

You can use the diagonal bar to get both the strip and the street set ups, then add the Panhard bar for the street set up. A simple two bolt removal would eliminate and two bolts added would cover which ever option you do or don't need at the time. If you mark the best street set up, and the best strip set up, both could be different, and you could use the best rear stabilizing set up for either use, Panhard bar for the street, diagonal bar for the strip, and the strip setup can still be adjustable for the strip conditions.

Poorboy, you may have a point. There is very little suspension travel so if I were to install both it is likely not to cause any binding. I may tack one in and test the theory. Thanks

Before I weld the brackets to the housing, I am pursuing the upgrade to a Dana, but its not my money being spent

Anyway I tacked the shock mount for placement and went ahead into fabbing the upper shock mount and crossmember. Since it is more street than race and its an easy upgrade to coilovers,

We did coil springs over a shock absorber set up, this will let us get running and driving on a smaller initial budget.

mo pics. this will probably the last installment for a few weeks or more as gotta get back to money generating projects.

So, I reconsidered the idea of the 8-3/4" with this big a tire and the eventual 650-700hp big block. Found a narrowed Dana 60 a few hours away for a decent price with trac-loc and 3.73 gear, had to cut off the brackets and pads it had welded to it.

Took the 8-3/4 out, cut the spot welds off the axle brackets and fit the Dana in its place. it is only an inch narrower than I had planned to cut 8-3/4 so just some 1/2 spacers will all it may need.

An under the bed fuel cell was preferred so I used a steel roundy-round style, i repurposed and moved the rearmost factory crossmember and fabbed a simple 1" angle for the front mount. Basic but strong and has good placement of the filler neck and pick up tube.

Man how the differences in a guy's background produces different insights!

Seeing tires that close to the frame still gives me the willy-nilly's!
.
I come from an old dirt track racing background. In that world, the hard rock sidewall tires that close to a frame rail wouldn't last 2 laps! Even with leaf springs and a panhard bar we wanted to see at least 1 1/2" (2" would be better) between the tire sidewall and anything the tire could make contact with. Between the twist in the frame rails, and the tire sidewall flex of the tires coming off the turns, the tire sidewalls could quickly move an inch or more towards the frame/body on the inside of the curve. I've seen the results of that, on a dirt track, sheet metal is the least of your concerns. I haven't had a dirt track car in nearly 20 years, but some things we just don't get completely over.

You might be OK, but I couldn't do it.

PoorBoy well as they say Rubbin is Racin, Not really, couple points that may ease your mind.

The rails on the truck are flat and smooth so if the tires ever do rub, the only thing lost will be the Hoosier white paint, the tires are also canted in due to my wood axle support hitting the sidewall near the floor, I expect from my measurments when the bed is back on and the wheel is mounted we will have the 1.5 to 2" of sidewall clearance.

Pulled the rear back out swapped the seals, cleaned and wire brushed the parts repacked the bearings got some paint on it and reassembly.

i had never seen such a small pinion on a Dana 60. This one measures out to be a spicer1310, But a all new shaft is being built so a 1350 pinion is the only way to go.

if i may ask, what was the cost of the 1350 yoke you bought vs a forged or billet item ?
i'm just ASSuming that is a standard 1350 cast replacement ?

Dennys driveshafts sells them i think it was $125

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p7...series_fits_all_dana_60_61_70_with_.html


Chrome Moly 165 Mark Williams are 200,

In these pics the higher placement of the crossmember is clear as to why I created the taller "truck" brackets. I finally fabbed the crossmember ends and the front bracket kickers. Chassis engineering was not on board with my design for the extended "truck" front mounts. They thought the extra length would add to much leverage on the crossmember. I believe I solved that issue quite thoroughly

in addition to welding in the factory riveted crossmembers, I added .100 plate to box the frame between the ladderbar front mount and the coilover mount. To make my life a little easier, i made them in three pieces per side. i am sure this truck will handle all that gets thrown at it plus.

After a Day of welding and giving myself a bit of "Sunburn" I lightly used flap wheels on the welds just to even it out a bit and several styles of wire brushes to remove all the loose material from the rails in prep for POR-15

I really like the stuff but messy! and the S**T dont come off your skin if you let it dry. I brushed the first coat on to get around and behind all the corners and cubbys. the second coat i sprayed with my primer gun. Ill say again i do like POR-15.
for this type of build.

after a day or so, it was time to install the rear suspension hopefully for the last time. I ran the new 1/2 fuel line, and installed the components. i have plenty to do but a really productive handful of days

plumbed new axle brake lines,finished install of fuel cell and feed line, the vent line need the bed to find placement, I rebuilt w/ all new parts rear brakes , got the Park brake cables in, drive shaft and all the suspension hardware tight (I still will need to add jam nuts or lock nuts after final adjustment when the truck is back together)

Dropped the wheel and tires on it and a little disappointed with my math, looks like i could have gone a bit wider or had more offset to the wheels. I will get clearer measurments when the bed is back on. Its not really bad but could have been better

the tires are 31-13.5 on 12" wheels 5.5" backspace.

The truck has such vast amount of empty space around the rear tires that these things look tiny. We will need to sell this wheel tire combo and go BIGGER. i will eat the cost difference as it is my fault that i stayed conservative with the tire size. I had never built a truck before so the 2D measurements don't really equate to the (3D)spacial enormity of what is actually there. These are 13.5 x 31 Hoosier Quick Time Pro on 12" wheels with 5.5 backspace 4.5 bolt pattern. Likely to go 15x14 with 4.5 backspace and 16.5 x31 tire. i will need to get good measurments now that the bed is on and its under its own power again

318 on its way out

its been 4 months of work and other time eating life to-dos. So I'm back at it for a good final push. The build left off with too small a tire and wheel width and the 318 was ready to come out.

this is the new tire wheel difference, just under 3" of additional width

Budget wise I am not tasked with doing paint and body so its mainly parts swap and fab. I just pressure washed the engine compartment after the engine trans and manual master came out, not sure how many pics Ill post on the parts going back in but ill will keep posting updates.

This kind of Backwoods parts usage is why we rebuild things and cant just trust what others did.

440 is in place, dropped right in. I used 440 source motormounts and bought new trans cooler lines from inline tube and was very happy I did. I did trim the driver frame rail by 3/8" just for a bit more clearance and took about 3/16" off of a block casting nodule for the driver side header clearance.

everything is buttoned up below and behind the camshaft, the front of the engine and accessories are next, a bit of wiring and some gauges, complete the brake system then its run in and play.

there is only .100 distance from the valve cover to the brake booster for those curious. hope to never remove the valve cover:) 1984 D250 booster and master, had to shorten the push-rod by 5/16" and ream the master cyls bolt holes out to 3/8"

had the same valve covers/Power booster issue.. wound up grinding the fins off the covers adjacent to the booster

Getting the underside wrapped up, my nephew had supplied me with a pair of dirt track mufflers on a 3" headpipe with a handful of bends that was installed under some car and I had a few little pieces from some other build. It was decently made with really nice smooth bends so it was up to me to break humpty dumpty apart and piece it back together again,

I cut a muffler off with part of a bend and it became the outlet, cut the other muffler out and matched the down pipe, now I am starting with a matched pair to build the rest of the system. I built the driver side choosing within my inventory of bends, then used the remaining bits for the pass side. they are a bit different from side to side since I had to use what was remaining and the crossmember on the pass side needed a soft double curve for clearance.

some of the bits used for the pass side and the nice driveway stain from the water sittin in the old parts.

Time to start on the dash and fix some wiring, My brother Ricky (Copper Dart) remade the under-hood wire harness and re-engineered some bulkhead connections for clean install of MSD ignition. I started with cleaning up the rats nest and backwoods retarded hillbilly wiring that was done by the previous owners. This is only a couple of examples of what I found.

I gutted the gauge cluster cause we are using mechanical gauges, the speedo had a broken needle and we dint want to buy a replacement plus the Tach was not wanted on top of the dash. I created a support panel with room to add future functionality and house what we have. I made a pattern for an aluminum face plate which i will cover in a faux carbon fiber vinyl.

In between the steps for the gauge panel, I started in on rebuilding the tubs. It took a little bit to decide the direction, first was to install the inside tubs. Please forgive the chicken scratch welding as the panels were ground as clean as possible but there is ages of oxidation through the original sheet-metal and residue of bedliner and tar and seamsealer and crud plus, plus, plus.

Anyway, I trimmed the wheelwell's factory floor to the pinch weld which gave me a good edge for alignment albeit about 5/16" lower due to the floor serrations and clearanced the bed floor flush to the frame rail. My Fabrication Mentor Dave lent me his bead roller to make filler panels and after bending and fitting about 80 times I buzzed them in. Basically spent 2 full days still need to make the top section on both sides. then to grind them smooth put some rattle can black undercoat the bottoms and I will wire brush with a grinder the entire bed and put a fresh coat of bedliner .

few more pics and the proper sized tire in place

looks good to me.

finished the dash structure and face panel. simple faux carbon fiber Vinyl.

Amazing work! Wish I had 1/10th of your fab skills.

I had made an access hole in the bed for the fuel fill, so I needed a basic cover to keep crap out and to dress the hole a little.

finished up the tubs, flapper wheeled the welds, re-welded the pin holes and used a 3" coarse wire cup on a grinder to remove all the, flaking paint, rust blisters and random crap that had accumulated over time. sprayed ospho and wiped it down to prep for fresh coat of bed-liner. just the basic Rustoleum gallon give a nice completed finish. From wet and shiny to a good satin.

worked on the tailgate to get the mechanism functioning and tailgate hangars straitened. in a few weeks it will get a stock bumper to finish the back.

only a few items remain under hood and waiting on a replacement temp gauge so I can finish the dash. then Run-in and drive here is how it sits on all 4s. Still gonna do new cab mounts but it is mostly how it is gonna look.

Got the truck 98% done. needs a few small items that my nephew and my brother will take care of. It needs body mounts, a new steering wheel, the tach stopped working im glad cause it should match the other new gauges, the MSD needs the advance plates installed, the Trans dipstick is seeping, Needs an alignment, and the rear suspension needs all the finish locking hardware, and a few other little nit picky type stuff. MY JOB IS DONE

i was going to surprise him with some graphics but he may not get here for another month so if he sees this thread he will see these next pics.

I thought the Gray/Black combo was going to look great but i just couldn't convince myself, All black was my determination.

Trying to upload videos but i am unsuccessful nothing seems to get them to work.

My Brother (CopperDart) Ricky built the engine so he did the run in, other than the timing being a bit retarded on startup it went flawlessly, Engine never went above 190* the fans cycled perfectly only needed some temperature adjustments, 50 lbs of oil pressure at +/- 2000 rpm, after 30 minutes adjusted the idle down and the mixture screws a bit. Drove the truck a few miles and been pulling it in and out of the shop everyday without any hiccups. it is off to the alignment shop (HOPEFULLY SOON) i need my space back! and my brothers lift to do the little things i wrote of a couple posts back.

No comments but whatever here is a walkaround vid

https://youtube.com/shorts/3ZTQYIpXLB4?si=_rSMcuctSJWPEJcB

I replaced the black face tach with the proper matching one.

I've been following along...thanks for sharing.
Sounds healthy! As usual, great job on the fab work.
Is this gonna be a daily driver or a weekend toy? Either way, your nephew has a cool ride.

Thanks Just a weekend toy, cruise-ins and such maybe hit the track just to be able to go balls out a few times

Couple launch videos, these are partial throttle, no changes made to the carb yet.

may need a looser converter, definitely needs more pump shot and lighter V secondary spring



https://youtu.be/Mk7x1i7Hrqo?si=V04TuZGMe_EK7fDM

Another.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Dm-rEKinLVE&si=cvEGVfhXek9O2kIL

You do some amazing work. Truck is really nice.