Pulled the rear back out swapped the seals, cleaned and wire brushed the parts repacked the bearings got some paint on it and reassembly.

i had never seen such a small pinion on a Dana 60. This one measures out to be a spicer1310, But a all new shaft is being built so a 1350 pinion is the only way to go.

if i may ask, what was the cost of the 1350 yoke you bought vs a forged or billet item ?
i'm just ASSuming that is a standard 1350 cast replacement ?

Dennys driveshafts sells them i think it was $125

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p7...series_fits_all_dana_60_61_70_with_.html


Chrome Moly 165 Mark Williams are 200,

In these pics the higher placement of the crossmember is clear as to why I created the taller "truck" brackets. I finally fabbed the crossmember ends and the front bracket kickers. Chassis engineering was not on board with my design for the extended "truck" front mounts. They thought the extra length would add to much leverage on the crossmember. I believe I solved that issue quite thoroughly

in addition to welding in the factory riveted crossmembers, I added .100 plate to box the frame between the ladderbar front mount and the coilover mount. To make my life a little easier, i made them in three pieces per side. i am sure this truck will handle all that gets thrown at it plus.

After a Day of welding and giving myself a bit of "Sunburn" I lightly used flap wheels on the welds just to even it out a bit and several styles of wire brushes to remove all the loose material from the rails in prep for POR-15

I really like the stuff but messy! and the S**T dont come off your skin if you let it dry. I brushed the first coat on to get around and behind all the corners and cubbys. the second coat i sprayed with my primer gun. Ill say again i do like POR-15.
for this type of build.

after a day or so, it was time to install the rear suspension hopefully for the last time. I ran the new 1/2 fuel line, and installed the components. i have plenty to do but a really productive handful of days

plumbed new axle brake lines,finished install of fuel cell and feed line, the vent line need the bed to find placement, I rebuilt w/ all new parts rear brakes , got the Park brake cables in, drive shaft and all the suspension hardware tight (I still will need to add jam nuts or lock nuts after final adjustment when the truck is back together)

Dropped the wheel and tires on it and a little disappointed with my math, looks like i could have gone a bit wider or had more offset to the wheels. I will get clearer measurments when the bed is back on. Its not really bad but could have been better

the tires are 31-13.5 on 12" wheels 5.5" backspace.

The truck has such vast amount of empty space around the rear tires that these things look tiny. We will need to sell this wheel tire combo and go BIGGER. i will eat the cost difference as it is my fault that i stayed conservative with the tire size. I had never built a truck before so the 2D measurements don't really equate to the (3D)spacial enormity of what is actually there. These are 13.5 x 31 Hoosier Quick Time Pro on 12" wheels with 5.5 backspace 4.5 bolt pattern. Likely to go 15x14 with 4.5 backspace and 16.5 x31 tire. i will need to get good measurments now that the bed is on and its under its own power again

318 on its way out

its been 4 months of work and other time eating life to-dos. So I'm back at it for a good final push. The build left off with too small a tire and wheel width and the 318 was ready to come out.

this is the new tire wheel difference, just under 3" of additional width

Budget wise I am not tasked with doing paint and body so its mainly parts swap and fab. I just pressure washed the engine compartment after the engine trans and manual master came out, not sure how many pics Ill post on the parts going back in but ill will keep posting updates.

This kind of Backwoods parts usage is why we rebuild things and cant just trust what others did.

440 is in place, dropped right in. I used 440 source motormounts and bought new trans cooler lines from inline tube and was very happy I did. I did trim the driver frame rail by 3/8" just for a bit more clearance and took about 3/16" off of a block casting nodule for the driver side header clearance.

everything is buttoned up below and behind the camshaft, the front of the engine and accessories are next, a bit of wiring and some gauges, complete the brake system then its run in and play.

there is only .100 distance from the valve cover to the brake booster for those curious. hope to never remove the valve cover:) 1984 D250 booster and master, had to shorten the push-rod by 5/16" and ream the master cyls bolt holes out to 3/8"

had the same valve covers/Power booster issue.. wound up grinding the fins off the covers adjacent to the booster

Getting the underside wrapped up, my nephew had supplied me with a pair of dirt track mufflers on a 3" headpipe with a handful of bends that was installed under some car and I had a few little pieces from some other build. It was decently made with really nice smooth bends so it was up to me to break humpty dumpty apart and piece it back together again,

I cut a muffler off with part of a bend and it became the outlet, cut the other muffler out and matched the down pipe, now I am starting with a matched pair to build the rest of the system. I built the driver side choosing within my inventory of bends, then used the remaining bits for the pass side. they are a bit different from side to side since I had to use what was remaining and the crossmember on the pass side needed a soft double curve for clearance.

some of the bits used for the pass side and the nice driveway stain from the water sittin in the old parts.