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Re: Brake problem [Re: ruderunner] #3053593
06/26/22 05:41 PM
06/26/22 05:41 PM
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Posts: 19
Sweden , Enköping
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Rasmus Vestlin Offline OP
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Rasmus Vestlin  Offline OP
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Originally Posted by ruderunner
Just to clarify, when I referred to mismatched components, I mean the whole system, not just the master and booster.

Iirc the Caddy calipers have fairly large pistons, we can assume the front are bigger.. I wonder if you're simply unable to move enough fluid to build enough pressure at the wheels. Either too small a master bore or not enough stroke.

Does the pedal seem to bottom out when pressed hard?

What happens if you disconnect the vacuum from the booster?

My point of reference is a 69 B body with 70 and up front disc, rear drum and no assist. I use a 1.25 bore master and have no problems locking the brakes up if desired.


Okey i understand your point, yes the brake pedal seem to bottom out when i press hard. At that point it should have locked up the wheels.

I have not tried disconect the vacuum from the booster , i Will do that and see what happens. If its no change it must be a faulty booster then ? What do you mean with not enough stroke?

Re: Brake problem [Re: Rasmus Vestlin] #3053613
06/26/22 07:03 PM
06/26/22 07:03 PM
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ohio
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ruderunner Offline
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The master cylinder is just that, a cylinder. It has a bore and a stroke (length)

It's possible that you're using up all the volume of the cylinder before generating hydraulic pressure.

As for disconnect the vacuum, it's just curiosity to see how much assistance it can provide. I run manual on my car and have no need for assist when braking.


Angry white pureblood male
Re: Brake problem [Re: ruderunner] #3053615
06/26/22 07:07 PM
06/26/22 07:07 PM
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nowhere
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Sniper Offline
master
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Wait one minute

What type of parking brake setup does your rear caliper use?

If it's one with the lever on the caliper, rather than a mini drum inside the rotor, and it is NOT properly adjusted you will see exactly what you are seeing.

This is why I asked for part numbers when you first posted.

Re: Brake problem [Re: lewtot184] #3053654
06/26/22 09:56 PM
06/26/22 09:56 PM
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Omaha Ne
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TJP Offline
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Originally Posted by lewtot184
Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by lewtot184
when i did a right stuff front disc conversion the car wouldn't stop. i ended up getting rid of the 2.74" piston calipers that came with the kit for 2.47" piston calipers and a 1" master. car stops now but not good. i hate their junk!!!!!!!!!!!


IF you went from a 2.74 piston to a 2.47 you actually reduced he amount of pressure at the the pads as the force generated by the master is multiplied by the diameter of the caliper piston beer
NO!!!!!!!


Read up on hydraulics wink

Re: Brake problem [Re: Rasmus Vestlin] #3053658
06/26/22 10:03 PM
06/26/22 10:03 PM
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TJP Offline
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Originally Posted by Rasmus Vestlin
Originally Posted by TJP
I would not suggest modifying anything just yet. One has to identify the problem first.

Step # 1. Make sure the "L shaped" bracket rod is installed correctly as it will affect travel and pedal leverage. be aware that some cars have multiple holes in the pedal arm for power or manual brakes. MAKE SURE you are installed correctly
Step # 2. Eliminate as much play or slop in the linkage as possible .030 at the master over a 6 inch distance multiplies significantly
Step # 3. Install pressure gauges on the master and verify the pressures being generated. Panic stop should be ~ 1500lbs.
note the pedal travel required. With the gauges(s) preferably on on each port note the amount of travel required, it should be very minimal unless there is excess play in the linkage or adjustment, something is moving/ flexing under the pressure, the master is bad. If you don't have 2 gauges you can get by with 1 by plugging the second port. that requires retesting the second port.
test kits are available relatively cheap on AMZ BRAKE PRESSURE TEST KIT may also be cheaper elsewhere.
Step # 4. Once you have established the pressures are being generated at the master you can the move to the calipers preferably one end at a time while blocking the other port of the master. You should see the SAME pressures at the calipers. While doing so again look for any flex or excess movement
Step# 5. repeat at opposite end.

By this time you should have enough data to indentify the problem and or rport back as there are a few other gremlins that are possible. beer



Thanks for your help! I Will check that, my L shaped bracket is correct mounted and i only have 1 hole at my brake pedal. I think next step first is to get rid of the slop and play in the brackets. Also try to adjust out the pushrod abit more to see what happens as someone pointed out.


if you lengthen the pushrod it will raise the pedal but may result in bottoming the piston in the master. You need to establish what pressure you are generating at the MC ports 1st. With gauges hooked up and bled you should have almost ZERO movement of the pedal before starting to generate pressure at both ports. beer

Re: Brake problem [Re: Sniper] #3053695
06/27/22 12:42 AM
06/27/22 12:42 AM
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 19
Sweden , Enköping
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Rasmus Vestlin Offline OP
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Rasmus Vestlin  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 19
Sweden , Enköping
Originally Posted by Sniper
Wait one minute

What type of parking brake setup does your rear caliper use?

If it's one with the lever on the caliper, rather than a mini drum inside the rotor, and it is NOT properly adjusted you will see exactly what you are seeing.

This is why I asked for part numbers when you first posted.


It is the one with lever on the caliper, i have adjusted it as they say with no play. I thought that was gonna fix it, but its still the same.

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