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RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot #3052833
06/23/22 09:52 PM
06/23/22 09:52 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 64
Anchorage AK
AKcharger Offline OP
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Anchorage AK
I had the ENTIRE AC system refurbished...EVERYTHING. System runs fine, pressures about 30 PSI low side and 185 high side. after about 15 minutes f I drive it the clutch starts to lock up (belts NOT slipping) and pressures bounce around 85 Low side and 150 high side. has anyone seen this and have an idea what's wrong??
https://youtu.be/OwhaJn5edt8

Last edited by AKcharger; 06/23/22 09:53 PM. Reason: wrong place
Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: AKcharger] #3052840
06/23/22 10:21 PM
06/23/22 10:21 PM
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NITROUSN Offline
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I don't think that clutch is working correct. It is not staying engaged and thats why the low pressure is going up.

Last edited by NITROUSN; 06/23/22 10:22 PM.
Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: NITROUSN] #3052844
06/23/22 11:04 PM
06/23/22 11:04 PM
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Phila
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PhillyRag Offline
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How does the pulley portion seem when you spin it, without belts on it?

Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: AKcharger] #3052847
06/23/22 11:13 PM
06/23/22 11:13 PM
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Florida
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GMP440 Offline
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Florida
Yes, I have seen and experienced this a couple months ago. The clutch plate is not gripping the pulley. Had this happen a few months ago on a Denso compressor on my 91 Ford Crown Vic. The clutch plate was not gripping the face of the pulley and was slipping making that same noise. I fixed that by getting a clutch and pulley from another denso compressor that was on an 89 Lincoln Town Car that was in a salvage yard. Everything has been good ever since.
To rule out the compressor, turn the engine off , turn the key on for power to the accessories, then, with a gloved hand just turn the clutch, rotating the compressor. If it turns freely, the compressor is not locked. Then only thing left is the clutch plate losing it's grip.
Also, as someone stated remove the belt and spin the pulley to make sure that is rolling free.

Last edited by GMP440; 06/23/22 11:23 PM.
Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: GMP440] #3052921
06/24/22 10:54 AM
06/24/22 10:54 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,237
north of coder
moparx Offline
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north of coder
isn't there a procedure to break in a new clutch, once one replaces it ? shruggy
beer

Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: moparx] #3052932
06/24/22 11:19 AM
06/24/22 11:19 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
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Grand Prairie,Texas
stumpy Offline
I Win
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Grand Prairie,Texas
Not that I've ever heard of but I don't know everything. whistling

Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: stumpy] #3052939
06/24/22 11:28 AM
06/24/22 11:28 AM
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westerly, ri. usa
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440lebaron Offline
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westerly, ri. usa
as i recall the clutch has a shim adjustment, small washer on shaft 3/8 5/16 dia??


all parts are sold as is, all parts are considered used no warranties or returns
paypal/check/money order, shipping is from zip 02891, buyer pays paypal fees 24% IRS 1099A plus 3% of part price, check/money order preferred
site is not monitored 24/7 there might be a delay in response

Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: AKcharger] #3052995
06/24/22 02:01 PM
06/24/22 02:01 PM
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Nebraska
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4406bbl Offline
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Nebraska
I would say it is overcharged and burnt the clutch. Is it 134 or r-12 freon? There is a break in procedure for those, switch on off 10 times when it is a new clutch, I think that is a joke, a way out of warranties for the reman companies. In the 80s clutches were smoking all the time, that was their way out of warranties, what was actually happening on some mopars is the a/c switch could not pass enough current to hold the clutch reliably and they would smoke it. It could also be the coil behind the pulley is weak. When you change your clutch install a jumper wire straight to the battery and run it that way until charged and cooling, then try the original wiring, if it squeeks on the original you know your dash switch is bad. Anyway some cars were real bad about it, a 20 amp dual pole toggle switch, a fuse and some wire is your friend, I don't trust 50 year old dash switches if the clutch is smoking.

Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: 4406bbl] #3053028
06/24/22 03:23 PM
06/24/22 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 4406bbl
I would say it is overcharged and burnt the clutch. Is it 134 or r-12 freon? There is a break in procedure for those, switch on off 10 times when it is a new clutch, I think that is a joke, a way out of warranties for the reman companies. In the 80s clutches were smoking all the time, that was their way out of warranties, what was actually happening on some mopars is the a/c switch could not pass enough current to hold the clutch reliably and they would smoke it. It could also be the coil behind the pulley is weak. When you change your clutch install a jumper wire straight to the battery and run it that way until charged and cooling, then try the original wiring, if it squeeks on the original you know your dash switch is bad. Anyway some cars were real bad about it, a 20 amp dual pole toggle switch, a fuse and some wire is your friend, I don't trust 50 year old dash switches if the clutch is smoking.


His pressure readings would show if it was overcharged. Which they do not. I agree he could try 12 volts direct to the clutch to eliminate all the rest of the electrical system. For what it is worth I have never seem much clutch failures as the old rv2 was fairly reliable.

Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: 4406bbl] #3053065
06/24/22 04:44 PM
06/24/22 04:44 PM
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CA
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crackedback Offline
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Originally Posted by 4406bbl
I would say it is overcharged and burnt the clutch. Is it 134 or r-12 freon? There is a break in procedure for those, switch on off 10 times when it is a new clutch, I think that is a joke, a way out of warranties for the reman companies. In the 80s clutches were smoking all the time, that was their way out of warranties, what was actually happening on some mopars is the a/c switch could not pass enough current to hold the clutch reliably and they would smoke it. It could also be the coil behind the pulley is weak. When you change your clutch install a jumper wire straight to the battery and run it that way until charged and cooling, then try the original wiring, if it squeeks on the original you know your dash switch is bad. Anyway some cars were real bad about it, a 20 amp dual pole toggle switch, a fuse and some wire is your friend, I don't trust 50 year old dash switches if the clutch is smoking.


Or do something like this...

[Linked Image]

Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: AKcharger] #3053069
06/24/22 04:48 PM
06/24/22 04:48 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,637
Florida
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GMP440 Offline
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Florida
Originally Posted by AKcharger
I had the ENTIRE AC system refurbished...EVERYTHING. System runs fine, pressures about 30 PSI low side and 185 high side. after about 15 minutes f I drive it the clutch starts to lock up (belts NOT slipping) and pressures bounce around 85 Low side and 150 high side. has anyone seen this and have an idea what's wrong??
https://youtu.be/OwhaJn5edt8


When you've done all the checks and the clutch is still slipping; take the clutch off and show pics of the clutch face and the pulley face to see the wear on those parts.

Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: NITROUSN] #3053167
06/24/22 10:22 PM
06/24/22 10:22 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,908
Nebraska
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4406bbl Offline
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Nebraska
Originally Posted by NITROUSN
Originally Posted by 4406bbl
I would say it is overcharged and burnt the clutch. Is it 134 or r-12 freon? There is a break in procedure for those, switch on off 10 times when it is a new clutch, I think that is a joke, a way out of warranties for the reman companies. In the 80s clutches were smoking all the time, that was their way out of warranties, what was actually happening on some mopars is the a/c switch could not pass enough current to hold the clutch reliably and they would smoke it. It could also be the coil behind the pulley is weak. When you change your clutch install a jumper wire straight to the battery and run it that way until charged and cooling, then try the original wiring, if it squeeks on the original you know your dash switch is bad. Anyway some cars were real bad about it, a 20 amp dual pole toggle switch, a fuse and some wire is your friend, I don't trust 50 year old dash switches if the clutch is smoking.


His pressure readings would show if it was overcharged. Which they do not. I agree he could try 12 volts direct to the clutch to eliminate all the rest of the electrical system. For what it is worth I have never seem much clutch failures as the old rv2 was fairly reliable.


His pressure readings at idle do not show overcharge, what are they when the engine is at 2000-3000 rpm? What freon, if 134 it should bubble at the sight glass
I have seen rv-2 systems with bad expansion or epr valves pull the low side into a vacuum... and smoke the clutch.

Re: RV-2 AC clutch locks up after getting hot [Re: 4406bbl] #3053225
06/25/22 09:11 AM
06/25/22 09:11 AM
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NITROUSN Offline
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Originally Posted by 4406bbl
Originally Posted by NITROUSN
Originally Posted by 4406bbl
I would say it is overcharged and burnt the clutch. Is it 134 or r-12 freon? There is a break in procedure for those, switch on off 10 times when it is a new clutch, I think that is a joke, a way out of warranties for the reman companies. In the 80s clutches were smoking all the time, that was their way out of warranties, what was actually happening on some mopars is the a/c switch could not pass enough current to hold the clutch reliably and they would smoke it. It could also be the coil behind the pulley is weak. When you change your clutch install a jumper wire straight to the battery and run it that way until charged and cooling, then try the original wiring, if it squeeks on the original you know your dash switch is bad. Anyway some cars were real bad about it, a 20 amp dual pole toggle switch, a fuse and some wire is your friend, I don't trust 50 year old dash switches if the clutch is smoking.


His pressure readings would show if it was overcharged. Which they do not. I agree he could try 12 volts direct to the clutch to eliminate all the rest of the electrical system. For what it is worth I have never seem much clutch failures as the old rv2 was fairly reliable.


His pressure readings at idle do not show overcharge, what are they when the engine is at 2000-3000 rpm? What freon, if 134 it should bubble at the sight glass
I have seen rv-2 systems with bad expansion or epr valves pull the low side into a vacuum... and smoke the clutch.


Wrong vacuum will never hurt a clutch. High pressures will cause strain and possible failures. Never, never, vacuum.







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