Well I'm not up to date on the best way to go for a 440 to get the maximum horse power.
So is a stroker the way to go? If so which one and by who?
I'm building a new engine for my 70 challenger, street strip.
Ive been hearing of cams breaking because of junk steel and very reputable engine builders going cheap on parts.
So far what I see is 440 source and Jegs with stroker kits they vary in price with what looks like the same components idk.
But I have to stay with a 440 because of the Sixpack intake I want to run ,so let's hear the beast ideas you guys have.

I built a mild mannered 505" street/strip engine with a Howards hydraulic roller cam.

I used Molnar crank and rods and Mahle pistons. It makes for a super lightweight and low drag rotating assembly.

We've had a trouble free 7,000 miles and hundreds of dragstrip and street passes with the only issues being components like the rearend and driveshaft that needed upgrading due to the torque.

It makes a trouble free and (relatively) quiet 600 hp n/a and we hit it with a 250 shot when we need a little more...

Here is the build thread of the car: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/428197/12/my-63-dodge-330-project.html

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Thanks , that brings up another question why is everyone going with hydraulic rollers ? Rather than a solid roller that won't float out?

If you have the budget then I'd recommend a 505 inch combination with pump gas compression (9.8 to 10.0), Trick Flow 240 heads, small hyd roller cam (230s duration at 050) and your existing six pack intake. It will make excellent torque, great power and should run smoothly and last a long time. Cost about $12,000 to build these days.

Your correct on wanting to use a tight lash solid roller
Call Bullet or Ultradyne to get one made for your motor that will work great
i ran one on my last pump gas low deck six pack street stroker motor, it work great
Way better than any hydraulic roller cam I have heard of on here or anywhere else
PM me on here if you want more details.
Cab

The 2 posts above just about covers it: 500+ inches, good heads and the right cam and you are rockin'.

Because you said street

Strokers don't need to rev to make power. No reason to ever rev mine past 6,500 rpm...which helps with longevity, IMO.

Not to mention that the factory six pack intake will be a cork in a 505 inch short block. Peak power will most likely be below 6000 rpm so no need for a high rev valvetrain.

Woops i meant street and strip , I built one like you described, but it wasn't a stroker.
now I wanna do something different . I have one of those 6pack tunnel ram setups and want to put it on something.

Is it a Weiand two piece SS intake manifold for stock 440 intake port size? If so the head ports will limit the power, sorry
if you wanted to go to a Max Wedge port size and weld up the intake to head mating surface and then enlarge those ports to match the head ports it would make more power than it will with the stock 440 port sizes
I have owned and race Mopar six pack motors for more than a little while, with both stock intakes and after market intakes, the more air and fuel you can get to go through the motor the more power and torque you will make
On your deal I would look for some 270 CC version Trick flow heads or a set of Indy SR M.W. port size or set of Indy 440-1 heads for max power and have your intake work on, welded up, to match the heads, big lift solid roller cam with a lot of lift and duration around 255 to 270 @.050 on both lobes with a LSA of 104 to 108 and install the intake lobe center between 3 to 6 degrees advanced, closer to TDC
My last pump gas street motor (517 C.I, 4.375 bore, 4.300 stroke,) I built made over 700 HP with a Eddy aluminum low deck six pack intake with a set of slightly modified 1970 Holley 440 six pack carbs on Oregon 92 octane pump swill. It was in a 1971 Duster that weighed right at 3450 Lbs. with me in it, best et through the mufflers with the air cleaner on using a set of CNC ported Eddy RPM 440 size intake ports was 10.39 at 127.+ MPH
I swap the heads , intake and carb later that winter to a set of Indy SR M.W. size intake ports and a Indy 400-3 intake manifold with a stock Holley #9375 1050 CFM non HP Dominator, that made the car run 9.993 at 134.+ MPH at the same track the next year in very similar weather with less than 50 FT. difference in density altitude, the track wanted to throw me out after that run due to the car and me not being NHRA certified to run quicker than 9.999 ET
I told them I would slow it down by staging a little deeper and short shifting it, which I did
Have fun, build it correctly once
Don't do it my way, three difference times

Difficult to answer given the wording of the first post.

I'm not sure what you said is actually what you want to say, as most peoples idea of a great street engine focuses on low/midrange power rather than "maximum horsepower" (results of optimizing either are rather contradictory)