What brand RMVB do you use for footbrake racing, why & what do you like/dislike about it? I am currently using a Turbo Action "Cheeta" valve body that I bought new around 1988ish. This was the real deal back then and I have never changed to anything else (always worked fine!). I'm wondering if it's time to unstick my head out of the sand and see if there's something better available for a race only, RMVB, footbrake racer (true footbrake, NOT no box)? Hopefully, this is not like asking what everyone's favorite converter is.

Thanks, Brian

Not sure if that valvebody has been updated over the years, but it’s still hard to beat. I sure wouldn’t change it

I agree !!! I have the Turbo - Action Cheetah in both my 904s ( one in car and my spare ) all I have used for over 35 years . I have their shift kit in the 518 in my 92 D150 that also works well . ( T/A made it for Mopar Performance ) I am a foot brake racer.

JFI we've been using a Griner Billet valve body for a while, no issues. 1.37-1.39 on the back wheels. Works as it should.

Griner is the best out there.....cant get em anymore tho.they come up used but I don't think you should bother with the change.

I think Keith Long is building Griners. I bet he will pipe in on this.

Or look at the Trans For Sale thread - he has a valve body for sale, has his contact info attached.

I’ve had no issue with my Turbo Action. Won a fair amount with it.
Doug

does Keith make a manual vale body without a trans brake better than the T/A?

Griner foot brake valve body models 1222G05 & 1222G05B
where B is band on in 1st both have enlarged fluid
passages and a 12mm check ball for 3rd to increase fluid
Volume. Also pressure is calibrated higher. The throttle
pressure/kick down valves are eliminated to provide
larger fluid paths. Third gear path is shorter than TA
Cheetah model.

I saw that, but I have no need for a transbrake valve body. He doesn't have non-transbrake valve bodys to sell at this time.

Brian

A&A Transmission sells a good valve body that is non low band apply with low pressure reverse circuit. We run this in a few cars that are true footbrake so the line pressure can remain higher for forward gears but it bleeds off pressure in reverse so you don't pop the servo. But I also wouldn't fix what isn't broken.

i have a Cope valve body. It sure changes hard under power. John makes a good unit.

RMVB w/ LBA but w/o trans brake? If so, I have one of those that I purchased with the plan to change to a reverse manual from the current forward manual Turbo-Action I have now. Haven't used it yet, though, so any input on how it works is appreciated. Thx

I have been using Copes RMVB wo/brake and no issues here. I will say thou that the A&A valve body with brake that the Cope replaced had a bit firmer shift. When i get another for the Hemi combo, i really would like to try the Griner from Keith. Have always heard good about the Griners.

Griner has lots of line pressure and is quite quick reacting, very handy on a 400 pro tree.
You being mainly a street driver and occasional test and tuner and non racer, not sure what benefit you would see, it won’t make the car any faster.

These two post were actually good to see. I had done some research a few days ago and decided to try a CRT valve body because of the low band apply. ALL of the parts that I ordered (valve body, band, band strut, sprag, billet servo, ect., ect.) were IN STOCK and were shipped the same day. (and this was after ordering a new PTC converter with a two week build promise and RECIEVING it in four days!!) Needless to say, but Cope Racing Transmissions & PTC have really impressed me. If their products work as good as their customer service, I'll really be pleased.


Thanks,
Brian

If you understand how the 727 works you'll see besides controlling the shifts there isn't any magic in the valve body. Assuming a non low band apply valve body is being used. There is no way to shift 1/2 any cleaner. First gear applies the rear clutch when the shifter is moved into low. The low roller clutch (sprag) holds the rear drum. You are in first gear before the car ever moves. In second the forward band stops the forward drum. When this happens the low roller clutch over runs. Nothing has to be switched off. So in essence the trans is either in 1st or 2nd. There isn't any time when the output shaft isn't being driven. Timing of the forward band release and application of the forward clutch is the key to a good 2/3 shift. Plenty of ways to do it. The bottom line is to get the timing so both units aren't fully applied at the same time. A very firm 2/3 shift is more than likely applying second and third at the same time. Use only as much line pressure as needed to keep the clutches and band from slipping. My car doesn't need much. Right around 125psi. When it's right the clutches and band will go a long time. My car has never hurt a band in over 750 passes. Forward clutch was still useable at 500 passes but showed a slight amount of heat. Rear clutches were like new. The only real issue I have with the turbo Action is the amount of time between shifter movement and the actual 1/2 shift. The shifter needs to be moved well under the actual shift point on the 1/2. The 2/3 is much closer in time in that respect. As far as leaving the line the valve body plays no parts as long as it has sufficient line pressure set.
Doug

FWIW, my T-A FMVB is the race version w/o LBA. I honestly don't know if the car would run any differently on the track, although John Cope told me the design of a FMVB is -- my words -- kind of a hack compared to an RMVB.

I didn't make the switch while the trans was out of the car cuz he spec'd significantly less clutch-pack clearance than my last build-sheet shows. Decided it's going to keep the current VB until the trans comes back apart and everything can be set correctly for the new VB... which won't be any time soon, unfortunately.

.012"-.015" per friction in the front clutch pack is a good general number. The rear clutch pack can be pretty tight .025"-.040" total. The only time the rear pack being to tight would be an issue is in neutral or reverse.
Doug

I've used Griner, CRT and A&A over the years. All good products and service