so it needs to go to the right?

I don't know, you didn't tell us which direction it was out. You'll have to look at your numbers and figure out what + and - mean in terms of direction.

I think what confuses most is the = and - readings.
You have to remember for example, + .007 and -.007 Mathematically total a difference of .014"
Example: If you zero your indicator at the -.007
Then run the motor around again you will find that the +.007 has now become +.014

if you zero at the +.007, run the motor around you'll find that the -.007 is now -.014

So a .007 offset dowel properly located will get you half way to zero with + / - .0035

A .014 dowel properly located should get you to zero but may impact your top and bottom readings.

So you have to rob Peter to pay Paul and hope Judas isn't hanging out around the corner LOL

I shoot for no more run out total than .0070, it is doable, take your time and get it right

You are overthinking this. Just step back and think about what you are seeing:

Dial mounted on crank, dial button on bell housing. If the dial indicator reading is increasing, the button is being depressed, the bell housing is getting closer to the crank centerline. Conversely if the reading is deceasing, the button is extending and the bell housing is moving away from the crank centerline. At the maximum reading or minimum reading, look at what the button on the dial indicator would have to do to bring the reading to zero and that's the way the bell has to be shifted. The amount is half of the total indicator reading (TIR) or in your case 0.014 (+.007 to -0.007).

I hate to throw in this caviate but the + and - readings do not have to be equal. In your case you could have +0.004 and -0.010 which would still give you a TIR of 0.014 and 0.007 offset.

Well put.

confusing is an understatement, to start off it had a weird noise when hammered in 3rd gear like it was trying to go into reverse 3500miles on the whole drivetrain, I pulled the tranny out and had it checked out by Darrin from this site he said the tranny is perfect and asked what b housing was on it I said it was a Lakewood he said if its not a drag car anymore put a stock back on as the Lakewood tolerances are wacky from the getgo then run a dial around the b housing so I took the Lakewood off and got a used stock one from brewers used the old stock dowels and I had a-26 at 12 I talked to the people at robmc and they recommended .014 offsets so that is whats currently in it now and I've turned them dowels every which way but loose I have at least 18 different pics of the readings and which way I've been turning the dowels, the directions that came with the offsets say the dowels have to be positioned at the same offset angle I've tried that way at 12, 3, ,6 and 9 and the bell does not even fit on, and the 340 was line bored so I'm sure bell needs to go up, the closest I've been is from the picture I've posted

so if I understand correctly the sum of the horizontal numbers = a sum, and the sum of the vertical numbers = a sum and if both of those reading separately = .008 or less it should be in spec,? the book I have says that TIR should be .008 or less

This is what I hear you saying. And yes, 0.008 TIR is the factory specification but I would shoot for less. It looks different than your original post but I am going by what you said.

Once you are done getting the opening for the transmission centered to the crankshaft/transmission centerline, don't forget to make sure the face of the bellhousing is square to the block too. I had to use shims on my Lakewood scatter shield to get mine to sit square to the crank/transmission centerline.

Just an FYI for any reading this, we have found the Qucik time SS to be a lot closer than Lakewood's are out of the box. But they are more $$. Maybe that's why Quick time is now owned by the same company

To the OP
Sounds like you could benefit from the Browell tool
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...ad/Board/19/main/145127/type/thread.html

You don't need to even turn the engine over.

Gus

I like that tool, I found that surfing by accident, wondering if anybody on moppets would rent one out

Hmmm... Maybe I should buy one and rent it out at $30 a pop and it would pay for itself in about 5 rentals

I use this tool another member made for me from a drawing I made. It mounts the indicator solid to a 6 bolt crank and it has been used on cars from coast to coast. Shoot me a PM with your info and I'll send it to you.

Gus

I had to take a break from the frustration I think this is going to work, any thoughts?

Those numbers indicate you are within .003 which is well within spec. Great JOB
I do have to ask though, you're indicator is preloaded at the 0 position correct? if so call that one DONE!!!!

yes and talk about frustration, thanks everyone for the help

still confusing is the total reading .005 then? or half of that reading?

Well to me that would be the total. I try to get the total under .007 and that would be measured from 3-9 or 6-12 positions on the bore. I would stab the transmission and send it

Gus