i'm second guessing my choice of camshaft design, i purchased the Trickflow Big block hydraulic roller camshaft TFS-61602003 with matching valve springs and a set of Comp hydraulic rollers.

Not having access to a machine shop that could ''bush'' the lifter bores, i'm told i might very well experience lifter bleed in upper RPM's.

I would like to avoid any issues and make sure engine runs to its fullest potential, which brings to my question, Can i install a set of solid rollers on my Trickflow hydraulic camshaft?

If yes, could i use the same valve springs as the hydraulic roller lifters? valve lash 0.05? which brand of solid rollers (hoping they are in stock)?

thanks in advance

I tried this on a Hemi and it acted really lazy.

You might be able to get away with it, just depends on the cam profile. I did that trick with a Comp hyd roller cam and it worked out okay. The engineer at Comp told me it would work if I set the lash really tight.

Before you do that you might want to think a bit more about your existing combination. The Trick Flow hyd roller cam should work just fine for a street strip car. If it is a dedicated race car then you might want to switch solid roller but if it is a hot street car I'd stay with the hyd rollers.

Typically the hydraulic profiles have a more aggressive ramp profile and will lift the valve faster from base to .020" faster than a solid. From all the detailed profiling on lobes that I have done, generally speaking the typical hydraulic profiles are more on par with the more aggressive solid profiles. With all that being said, you could run a solid providing you run the lash on the tight side. On an iron block and aluminum head, I would start about .012" intake and .014" exhaust. Setting the lash looser gets it into the aggressive part of the ramp and will lift the valve faster and will also seat it faster. Spring load requirements will also increase with a faster aggressive lobe. Having the Hydraulic lifter acting as kind of a shock absorber and lifting the valve sooner on the short slow ramp allows you to get away with running a little less spring.

Some of the hydraulic and solid profiles will easily cross over.

Believe it or not the end result should be a more responsive cam with less overlap and more torque.

This is of course very general information and if it were a comp cam with actual known lobe numbers it would be easier to narrow down the intensity level and what lash settings you can get away with.

AG.

Call the cam company for your cam and ask them
Sometimes it pays to get the cam package right before finding out the hard way it will break some parts when mismatched

thanks for insightfull, following is a link for my cam card
https://static.trickflow.com/global/images/chartsguides/t/tfs-61602003_sn.pdf

My work just got a Comp Hyd roller lifter engine back from the engine builder and those lifters make a ton of noise on startup. I pulled the valve cover after a long drive, engine ran ok ( 408ci) and within seconds all the lifters had bled down. I’m sorry but I don’t like them at all. I’m finishing up a 498ci and I’m running a custom Bullet solid flat tappet cam. Bullet
lifters are on big time back order. I’m going to try a set of the Howard’s lifters with the EDM hole on the face. We’ll see what happens.

Do you know how many THOUSANDS - that's with an "S" at the end - of roller lifters have been installed in big block Mopars WITHOUT bushing the lifter bores ?!?!?

AND ... are you trying to tell me "Nick's Garage" doesn't have the tools or connections to have lifter bores bushed ?!?!

1260 Rue Tellier, Laval, QC H7C 2H1 450-936-8100

So this is guess, based on that cam card it could be a Howards cam grind, Lobe numbers BHR243400 and BHR247383. See page 10 in the below link.

https://www.howardscams.com/sites/default/files/lobe%20list%20email%201-20-2014.pdf

If so, looking at the intensity between .020" lift and ..050", the number difference is 27 degrees. As for comparing to a solid roller, common ranges of around 27-36 degrees with 28 being considered very aggressive and would be regarded as a higher maintenance solid roller requiring a lot of spring and would definitely run a premium style lifter if running a solid body lifter. My concerns would be axle and bearing degradation especially if the valve train is not kept in control.
AG.

[quote=turbobitt]So this is guess, based on that cam card it could be a Howards cam grind, Lobe numbers BHR243400 and BHR247383. See page 10 in the below link.

https://www.howardscams.com/sites/default/files/lobe%20list%20email%201-20-2014.pdf

If so, looking at the intensity between .020" lift and ..050", the number difference is 27 degrees. As for comparing to a solid roller, common ranges of around 27-36 degrees with 28 being considered very aggressive and would be regarded as a higher maintenance solid roller requiring a lot of spring and would definitely run a premium style lifter if running a solid body lifter. My concerns would be axle and bearing degradation especially if the valve train is not kept in control.
AG. [/quote

thanks for the comparison and information, i never thought of comparing to the Howards camshafts, and yes it would be too much of a high maintenance if converted to solid, thanks for pointing it out.

i've built a bunch of Mopar V8 with solid roller cams and lifters, when I used the cheaper rocker arms and pushrods like the old Smith Bros pushrod without the heat treated end they did wear and require more frequent lash adjustments
One i switch to Harland Sharp and T&D rocker arms and Manton series 3 or 5 pushrods the valve lash adjustments almost went away, once a year or less after being broken in
Good parts are worth buying and using

I believe you tend to get into lifter galley bleed issues somewhere over around .380-.390 lobe lift.... generally. I would check with Howards and see if they have any issues reported from customers. (Howards Grinds the TF cams IIRC)

I run a Bullet Hydraulic roller in my 517 and I think the lift at the lobe is .380I-.373E and I have no issues at all with the Crane Lifters and I've turned it 6800-7000 many times. I run 264/268 @.050 and with Big mopar wedges the power you feel on the street is really in the mid lifts. Remember a cam spends most of it's open duration between at least 1/3 lift and 2/3 of peak lift.

If you are really worried about it I would send it back to Howards and have it reground to the 235/240 @ .050 and somewhere around .370 lift, it might cost you 10-15 peak hp and the Peak torque rpm will come in a few hundred RPM sooner, but in a Stroker Mopar I doubt you'll miss it.

If that sounds like a broomstick, I know 110% there's someone here that runs High 10's in a street driven B body with that same grind.

my .02