I welded in the upper link axle tabs and measured for a tiny driveshaft

Mocked up front suspension to begin the brake plumbing, steering box, exhaust routing, nothing complete but mostly planned out to consider fuel routing. Next is modify the body for steel floors and firewall.

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While I think Boling Brothers do a spectacular job with their builds and fab, i sent them a little adjustment to their chassis design that i think should be incorporated.

It is the space allotted for mufflers, I have a full fender chassis so ground clearance isnt an issue but these bars really cause space issues if you were to use chambered mufflers and the car was low to the ground.
all I suggest is to add a small bend downward near the trans crossmember.

Might consider a heat shield under that master cylinder.

Brake fluid heats up, expands, brakes start applying all with your foot elsewhere.

Other than that, nice work.

Thanks Sniper, you know the saying Great minds think alike i have one made just need to install nutserts and bolt it up, the pics give the impression that the tube is much closer as well. I have worked on several A body big blocks where the header tube is much closer and more confined area and never experienced an issue.

I expect the i wont have trouble here since i will have the header and exhaust tubes Jet-Hot coated. still needs the O2 sensor installed and i dont plan to coat until getting ready for final assembly

Body setting in its location to rough in the seating position, steering column and assessing what i will do for mounts and floor structure. had my Dad (83) sit cause we are about the same size.
Made seat tabs and risers, seats are the narrowest I could find out of a KIA Rio, removed the arm rests, lumbar handles and the base tilt option, modified the tracks for mounting.

There are so many small modifications and changes that must get addressed, in the overall build they are never even considered when all said and done.

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Removed body off chassis to start body floor structure, did plenty of planning for mounts and to maintain as much original steel in the car. I used 1x3 rectangular tube for cross bracing that doubles as body mounts and nests into the modified original steel. 1" square tube and 1/2" square tube make the trans tunnel and firewall support. I had considered using only sheetmetal for the floor structure but for ease of fabrication I chose this route

This is the layout for flooring, you can clearly see the seat tabs and original body mount holes. I will address the trans tunnel when I get the shifter and I mount the body back onto the chassis.

the fire wall engine tunnel is next mocked up a cardboard template for the firewall and got the depth i need, trimmed the opening while keeping the integrity of the factory joint to the cowl.

The cowl rust and gas filler/ vent hatch were addressed plus the basic floor panels were cut. I will bead roll the floor and patch the lower 2.5: of the cowl. This car is real solid so its more of new fabrication rather than replacing alot. the rear quarters will need considerably more attention though.

The cowl rust and gas filler/ vent hatch were addressed plus the basic floor panels were cut. I will bead roll the floor and patch the lower 2.5: of the cowl. This car is real solid so its more of new fabrication rather than replacing alot. the rear quarters will need considerably more attention though.

Mounted the body to the chassis, had to make some mounts and source the finished hardware. installed the Lokar shifter for placement and trans tunnel dimensions, mocked the steering shaft and column for position

So, major brain Fart.

I actually welded in the driver side floor pan without adding a hatch for the MC. (its my first Hot Rod) . I figured I would add the hatch after but that wasn't the right choice anyway. But as it turns out I needed to re work all the geometry and panels for the lower firewall to better fit the steering column, brake pedal and trans tunnel. Since the floor panel with hatch is literally where I step to enter and exit, I used 16 gauge (.060) and welded in a piano hinge plus added support flanges. I also finished the tunnel, the floor from firewall to trunk is 95% i will be adding a couple small filler panels around the cowling and a removable "shelf" under the dash.

My initial steering set-up only used 1 u-joint but that gave me little flexibility in overall angle and finish mounting brackets, by going to a 3" shorter column with a 2nd u-joint i got a better placement and can use the column in all 5 positions of the tilt mechanism. I welded a bracket and support rod for the steering bracket to bolt to and milled the floor bracket for clearance to the brake pedal lever. I am very happy I chose to mount the steering column behind the dash panel so i can access all the wiring, switches and gauges without dropping the column.

Lots of good progress!

i mothballed this for a few months due to OVERload of WORK. good thing, but sucks at the same time. here is my contraption for wheeling it into the garage

A clever solution for rolling it about.