I have a new voltage regulator (pre-70 style) I bought for my 69 Dart a few years back as I am also converting the car to electronic ignition. I just want to be sure it is in fact an electronic unit so I'd like to ask how do you tell the difference between an electronic and a standard regulator? The electronic unit does look different on the backside from my original regulator. My original is on the left in the pics.

I would also like to ask, although the connections look the same, is there anything I have to modify elsewhere to use the electronic regulator?

Thanks.

Without the resistors I would ASSUME that the regulator is solid state. The only way i know of to verify if it is indeed the solid state version, if there are no part numbers on the regulator, no identification numbers on the packaging, no invoice or receipt for the regulator, would be to remove the can and look inside. Or have it X-rayed.

If it is the electronic replacement for the OEM regulator it should work with no other changes.

Electronic regulator replacements on old cases are a straight fit. No mods. That's the purpouse for it.

As far if the one on the right is a correct electronic unit replacement for the old mech reg... it seems to be.

Take the cover off and look. Solid state/electronic will have a PCB, old style will have points.

I would say it looks like the insulation is backwards??

Joe

The one on the right in the backside view is the electronic.
Plug & play, no worries.

Good eye , it is .

this,...

Thanks guys!

No to be funny but changing to electronic ignition is not related to changing to electronic alternator control. Is it? 2 independent issues. Though I can understand wanting better system voltage control.

I'm not changing the regulator because of the ignition change. I just mentioned the ignition change to indicate I am upgrading to electronic parts in general.

Just an FYI: It is recommended to do so as the electronic regulators are much more stable voltage wise and the electronic ignitions will perform better due to the constant voltage.

Bolt it on your car & try it,if it smokes up it was electronic.

Try it and you can tell if it’s electronic by the amp gauge holding steady. A mechanical will bounce around some as it switches. The electronics one will also fail shortly thereafter. That’s another clue. DAMHIK.

point regulators have the resistor on the back side.

"Bolt it on your car & try it, if it smokes up it was electronic."

"The electronics one will also fail shortly thereafter."


So, is it not a good idea to use an electronic regulator?

I have installed MANY electronic versions on my own and customers cars with no problems over the last 25 years (knock on wood). Wonder if wiring / ground issues could be causing the failures ?

Back in the day Direct connection offered a version as it was recommended with the ignition upgrade THOSE were definitely known to fail. At that time, the parts store ones were all mechanical. Somewhere in the mid to late 80's the parts store electronic versions started appearing. Can't remember ever having a problem with one

If your AMP needle isn't bouncing, then its a solid state one.
I changed mine over on both of my Darts long ago and it has been a pleasant change. Swapped over my old cover, which is stenciled with date code, so only a careful eye can notice.

If you know of a good 69 down electronic on the market today, post it up. Mine failed this past fall, no grounding issue, sanded back of mount and even a dedicated ground wire to it. Look alike of a mechanical old school one. Ran for maybe two hours total. I’d like a good electronic one to put on the car and stop the bouncing on the gauge. I just don’t care for that while I’m driving and could use that as my spare to carry.

Even had the 70 up style one fail quickly as a resto look one about 12 years ago. Replaced with an ancient parts store one I had in my stash and that one was still living when I sold the car a couple years later. Didn’t have the detailed look I wanted, but it worked where modern garbage couldn’t cut it.

the reason they fail is that there is a small fusible link inside that pops. I've replaced them with a strand of copper wiring and they work. Had the MP one years ago do that to me and that's how I figured out what was wrong.