Mods and Users, this may be a stretch but does meet criteria, however I will understand if it is not welcome. I finished and sold my last complete build ( Thread was titled; 76 Volare, yes a Volare) and have been working on a car I wanted since I was about 10. I am Mopar or no car so this will be powered by a EFI 318, 727 and 8-3/4. mostly this is a fabrication and assembly thread, very little in regards to the drive train other than freshen up. I will post a couple of pics in the first reply and I would like to get input as to whether the mods will allow the build and if my fellow Moparts members want to see it.

thanks in advance Henry aka modelmakerinc

Well this is it, pulled out of a shed in central Florida, it is 90% complete in mostly solid condition it will be a traditional build not chopped or channeled or crazy, it is to be a very respectful to its roots but have a healthy Mopar heart and Drivability.

Opinions should it stay or go? no hard feelings I can post elsewhere. Thanks

You are going to have to do something about the brakes, they aren't even hydraulic.

I would enjoy following this MOPAR powered build.

Long ram manifolds sticking out the sides on a BB 440 look really wild on a streetrod like that!

A relatively mild build with that lightweight of a car would be scary fast!

Definitely post updates here!

It should definitely stay.

Going to be mopar powered so I vote to stay. Plus I remember following your Volare build and you do awesome work, so can't wait to see the transformation of the new project.

Well over 100 views and no rejection and a few positives. So I thank you all for the support.

So I've had it for a little while and have considered exactly what I want to build so the stock chassis and everything below the floor had to go.

Here is the mock up of what I'm going for.

Don't know if you are going to fab your own frame or look at all the prefab ones out there but good choice in replacing it. Looks like you already got a good jump on the work, keep it up.

Sniper, I looked at at least half dozen chassis/ suspension fabricators and Boling Brothers was the only shop that has the jig / plans / measurements for a stock orientation full fendered model T coupe. (others could but for premium additional cost)

These guys are first class fabricators and can build as much or as little as you want, I had them build the basic chassis and supply (Multiple Sourced) front end components they have confidence in, and all the tabs gussets and link bars for a triangulated 4 bar set up on the rear.

I will be installing my own trans and motor mounts, front shock mount (the model T does not use front shocks) steering, brakes and rear end.

shipped to my door and just an awesome value. the pics are when it shipped and how it arrived.


https://www.bolingbrothers.com/ check out their site great stuff.

This reminds me of something Krass and Bernie would build in the old CarToons magazine.

I established ride height, wheel and tire combo plus stance so I was able to measure engine combo, radiator with fans and shroud.

This gave me engine position front to rear. I am well aware it will sit under /inside of cowl but the standard wheelbase, fenders and hood all will remain to factory specs..

This gives me a small window to fab the tranny mount.

I had Boling Brothers install their standard flange for SBC/Auto expecting to modify for Ma Mopars finest small block 727.

I am using a later style modified spool mount. Their mount flange is just a flat plate, i removed a center section for mount clearance and low transmission position.

Engine angle established to horizontal as planned chassis rake, chassis angle for reference. Engine mounts welded in. The brackets are close but I will need to add permanent spacers or shims because stacked washers are not acceptable 😎

Came across my first issue, that was not cheap and pretty bothersome.

There are many radiators that are available for a model T. But they universally all fail to mention their mounting position and they will not fit the factory shell or placement.

T buckets and "Hot Rods" place the radiator between the frame rails behind the crossmember which in turn changes the position of everything behind it.

I am building a factory wheelbase full fendered car so the radiator has to go above the crossmember/spring pocket.

The original radiator shell is sitting on top for reference, I had to buy a $1200 Griffin unit that is designed to fit under the factory Radiator shell.

I was watching an episode of Roadkill Garage where they were working on Dulcich's Chrysler boat. It used motor mount brackets very similar to what you have, no spacers needed. Of course, finding a set and having them match up to your welded in stuff is probably as likely as winning the Powerball, lol.

Sniper,

thank you for that however, The rubber biscuit style engine mounts are needed for some damping of the engine, many boats don't need rubber since the engine mounts directly to the boats stringers.

I was referring to the engine mount brackets that bolt to the block, they are not bent to the proper width, so are quite loose fitting onto the block. Little tough to see in the pics but there are a few washers taking up the gap temporarily,
not acceptable as a finish for me so i will be fabbing spacers. I wont have hood sides so the mounts are very obvious and need to have a clean install.

Yes, I understand what you are doing. Just mentioning that the marine brackets I saw on that jet boat look very similar to the ones you are using and putting a rubber cushion in there wouldn't be an issue, but just very likely to not bolt in place of what you have fabbed. Not much help though.

After engine and transmission placement established, I set out to install the rear axle
I will need to take 2" off each side but that doesn't stop me from adding the TFL tabs and lower shock mounts

Sorry for the sideways pictures, I'll try to fix when I'm on a PC.

I had to shorten the lower bars because the shock mounts were angled back.
Here are some shots of setting all the angles