"What is the part number of the hellwig helpers those are?" EZ 550.

Having hard time finding ones that fit my 68 Charger. Sites(Amazon and Summit) say they don't fit.

I would do the torsion bar adjustment that I suggested and call it day. It's fairly easy and straight forward. No parts need to be added or changed.

He is looking to raise the rear not the front. Hence the name "Sagging Rear".

And I think the key is that one side is lower than the other.

On the subject of torsion bar adjustments: Adjusting the torsion bars will not raise the rear of the car any higher than the springs are already holding it up.
You can lower one side of the rear by raising the torsion bar on the opposite front side of the car. Lowering the torsion bar on one side will raise the opposite rear side.This is all relative to one another. Of course then the front of the car will not be even. messing with the torsion bars will also throw off the front end alignment.
The car can also look a little higher or lower without driver weight. When I set up my racecar I try and get the front torsion bars as even as possible with driver weight in the front seat and then fine tune the bars to get the proper weight and height I want on the rear end. You have to have a rear suspension that is not worn out and sagging to be able to do this properly. Balancing the two seems to be the key!
Mike

You should play with torsion bar settings while hooked up to an alignment rack, a little change will change the readings ALOT. Used to get torsion bar vehicles in all the time way out of whack, I'd set the bars so the ride height equaled out and sometimes that was all that was needed, that would pull the readings "dead nuts". I don't remember how many I fought with trying to get them aligned, then correct the torsion bar settings, and then I'd be able to get the alignment into spec so much easier, most often I had to raise the left to match the right side.
I always sent them out measuring the same side to side.

I just bought new leafs for my fury last year and put them in. Big difference. I had a choice of 2 or 3 options on number of leaves I can't remember now. I think there were 3 choices on that one. Regular, and 2 heavier duty ones. If I remember right mine had 4 leaves, had a 5 leaf option and a 6 leaf option for police/taxi/fleet/tow package. I stepped up 1 leaf from original and it sits perfectly now. I got tired of chasing leaks in the lines to the air shocks. I now have standard style but heavy duty shocks on the back and it rides so much better, too.
Just age had taken their toll. I had taken the original leaves off back in 07 and had them "re arched" and that didn't last 1 summer and they were sagged out again. My fury is a 78 2 door. So they were past due.

Of course raising the front won't raise the rear Also, reading the o/p's topic he asks about ONE side being lower than the other.

I raised the front left on mine in order to lower the right rear some as I was looking to even my rear. My right side was higher and driving me nuts. I did everything from swapping the leaf springs to adding a leaf spring pad on one side and other things. So I was able to balance out the unevenness some with little tweaks with front end. Lithium battery instead of the almost 50 lb Interstate sitting in front left (11 pounds) T bar tweak and things are MUCH better and the stance looks good now. But I'll write it again; if you lift the left side REAR, the right side REAR the right side will come up almost the same amount. I learned.

Hmmmmmm.....I have leveled the rear on more than one Mopar with the helpers. And if the weight balance on the rear tires matters, then leveling the rear with the torsion bars would probably cause a conflict.

Then there's the issue of keeping the front level and keeping the alignment correct when the torsion bars are used to level the rear. It will certainly work in some situations. It's just that it may not always be the best solution.

Not the best but when when you tried everything to level the rear left to right, using the front to help mitigate the problem is part of the solution. Not a lot of lift in front is needed to counter height in opposite rear side. Mine did not need an alignment adjustment afterward either. It was still in spec.

Anyoe contemplatig new rear springs i strongly recommend Laura at ESPO or Springs and Things . been buyingSprings from her for over 25 years for a multitude of customers cars. I believe they are all US made
LINKY TO ESPO

ESPO's web site says that their springs are $240 to $280 plus shipping, take 4 to 5 weeks to ship, and while some are U.S. made, others are made in Mexico. And what you unbox, as far as ride height and level, is what you've got. Kinda seems like the long way around to level the rear of the car.

You can compensate for that by cranking out the the torsion bar bolt to lower the left front . That will bring the right rear part of the car back up. dickssportinggoods feedback www.lowes.com survey