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Re: Crank tight [Re: B1MAXX] #3033620
04/14/22 05:16 PM
04/14/22 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Bore gauge the torqued mains I bet you find out of round. A line hone will fix it up right. I had a 396 one time that the # 5 was almost .009 too wide at one position. You probably have a tight one.


Without bearings.

Re: Crank tight [Re: B1MAXX] #3033621
04/14/22 05:31 PM
04/14/22 05:31 PM
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Wirenut Offline OP
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Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Bore gauge the torqued mains I bet you find out of round. A line hone will fix it up right. I had a 396 one time that the # 5 was almost .009 too wide at one position. You probably have a tight one.


But why would it show up now vs previously?

Just being devils advocate!!!!

Re: Crank tight [Re: Wirenut] #3033631
04/14/22 06:08 PM
04/14/22 06:08 PM
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Did you change from bolts to studs ??? sometimes a bolt or stud will mess things up.

Last edited by johnzgarage; 04/14/22 06:15 PM.
Re: Crank tight [Re: johnzgarage] #3033632
04/14/22 06:09 PM
04/14/22 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by johnzgarage
Did you change from bolts to studs ???



And if so are the studs tight in the main caps.


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Re: Crank tight [Re: pittsburghracer] #3033663
04/14/22 08:34 PM
04/14/22 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by pittsburghracer
Originally Posted by johnzgarage
Did you change from bolts to studs ???



And if so are the studs tight in the main caps.


Heat cycling over time can move and the old bearings wear. At same time. Then new bearings in old bore = oval



iagree

Re: Crank tight [Re: FastmOp] #3033717
04/15/22 07:21 AM
04/15/22 07:21 AM
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studs can definitely change cap location vs factory type bolts. do check the bore sizes. it's a real "educational opportunity"; whistling.

Re: Crank tight [Re: Wirenut] #3033721
04/15/22 07:47 AM
04/15/22 07:47 AM
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Apollo, PA.
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Originally Posted by Wirenut
Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Bore gauge the torqued mains I bet you find out of round. A line hone will fix it up right. I had a 396 one time that the # 5 was almost .009 too wide at one position. You probably have a tight one.


But why would it show up now vs previously?

Just being devils advocate!!!!


Because your main clearance wasn't at .002 with the old bearing/set-up. If your clearance was 1 or 2 thou. more you wouldn't have even noticed it. I'm not suggesting you do this but I bet if scotch-brite the tight but turn-able bearings it would go away.


Last edited by B1MAXX; 04/15/22 07:56 AM.
Re: Crank tight [Re: B1MAXX] #3033735
04/15/22 08:48 AM
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Wirenut Offline OP
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Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Originally Posted by Wirenut
Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Bore gauge the torqued mains I bet you find out of round. A line hone will fix it up right. I had a 396 one time that the # 5 was almost .009 too wide at one position. You probably have a tight one.


But why would it show up now vs previously?

Just being devils advocate!!!!


Because your main clearance wasn't at .002 with the old bearing/set-up. If your clearance was 1 or 2 thou. more you wouldn't have even noticed it. I'm not suggesting you do this but I bet if scotch-brite the tight but turn-able bearings it would go away.



I think your right on here . I think this block may have had main bore alignment issues . As I mentioned it was hard on bearings until I went to a standard x then it all went away .

We did measure the bores without bearings and they were spot on spec .

Studs in 1 and 5 bolts in the rest and always has been .

Called a local shop that can line bore and they can’t take it for a month. I have one more I can try .

Thanks for all of the ideas. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something stupid .

Re: Crank tight [Re: Wirenut] #3034075
04/16/22 10:21 AM
04/16/22 10:21 AM
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Apollo, PA.
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I bet the original line bore was done with some very expensive equipment too. (just a follow up comment on another post,sorry) It must not be straight, since the bores are round.

Re: Crank tight [Re: B1MAXX] #3034090
04/16/22 11:48 AM
04/16/22 11:48 AM
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I suspect that the fore/aft location of the newly ground thrust journal on the crankshaft is off. So the crank is moved further forward or further rearward in the block than it is supposed to be. So the bearing shell is getting into the radius on the #2 crank journal causing the binding. You could put a very thin coat of Permatex Prussian blue on the radiuses of the #2 journal, making sure to not go past the radius with it. Then assemble it, and look for witness marks from the bearing hitting the radius.


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Re: Crank tight [Re: Hemi_Joel] #3034097
04/16/22 12:17 PM
04/16/22 12:17 PM
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I’d be looking for a shop with a “line hone”.


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Re: Crank tight [Re: Hemi_Joel] #3034114
04/16/22 12:46 PM
04/16/22 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Hemi_Joel
I suspect that the fore/aft location of the newly ground thrust journal on the crankshaft is off. So the crank is moved further forward or further rearward in the block than it is supposed to be. So the bearing shell is getting into the radius on the #2 crank journal causing the binding. You could put a very thin coat of Permatex Prussian blue on the radiuses of the #2 journal, making sure to not go past the radius with it. Then assemble it, and look for witness marks from the bearing hitting the radius.

iagree I would also double check the radius on each journal. You might find #2 bearing will require some carving of the radius contact area. Something to check with an easy fix shruggy

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Re: Crank tight [Re: fourgearsavoy] #3034157
04/16/22 04:37 PM
04/16/22 04:37 PM
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Yeah, first thing is check radius on the bearings. And then a line hone is definitely the choice, over a line bore and then hone. Unless you changed maincaps, there should be no need for a line bore. S/F....Ken M

Re: Crank tight [Re: Hemi_Joel] #3034408
04/17/22 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Hemi_Joel
I suspect that the fore/aft location of the newly ground thrust journal on the crankshaft is off. So the crank is moved further forward or further rearward in the block than it is supposed to be. So the bearing shell is getting into the radius on the #2 crank journal causing the binding. You could put a very thin coat of Permatex Prussian blue on the radiuses of the #2 journal, making sure to not go past the radius with it. Then assemble it, and look for witness marks from the bearing hitting the radius.


I thought about this as well. So I put it all together without the upper or lower thrust bearing . Same result when torquing #2 . Didn’t use the dye . Maybe I should look closer at it .

Re: Crank tight [Re: fast68plymouth] #3034409
04/17/22 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by fast68plymouth
I’d be looking for a shop with a “line hone”.


Yes, trying . Not many around and so far the two I spoke to can’t take it for a month or more .

Re: Crank tight [Re: Wirenut] #3034412
04/17/22 02:18 PM
04/17/22 02:18 PM
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There is a reason it is tight, it's up to you to find out exactly what it is so you can have it fixed CORRECTLY: work: upscope
Do you have a set of good mikes, inside and outside, or a good dial bore gauge? If so on either one I would check the inside diameter of that main bore torque down and again with a main bearing torque down in it and see if you determine where exactly THAT problem is wrench scope up twocents
Good luck, you can find and have it fix up

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 04/17/22 02:22 PM.

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