After supplying a BB Mopar bellhousing, 8-bolt manual transmission flywheel, starter, etc. the dyno shop that said they will test my engine called and said they can't do it.
Their dyno mounting has several hole patterns (trans patterns) to bolt the dyno to the engine bellhousing; but none fit the Chrysler A833 manual transmission.
A833
5.28" wide top holes
7.125" wide bottom holes
7.875" height from top to bottom holes

I will go out to the shop today and look at mine. I’ll see if mine will take that pattern. I haven’t gotten my dyno up and running yet but it’s close. Waiting on some hardware and a couple of water pumps.

Now that I think about it...it may not have the 833 pattern on it. I have a scatter shield and it has the 833 and GM pattern on it. I just can’t believe there isn’t an 833 pattern on it though.

You most likely need a bell from a big block truck. As I remember they will bolt up to several transmissions NP-435, NP-445 and possibly more. Someone on Moparts may have one you could borrow. Here is a link to one that could work . Bell

Well that is a bummer. I haven't run into that exact problem before but I'm familiar with those types of issues. There are some options but they'll all cost money. Here is one option: https://www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/engine_dyno_stand/parts/77-251

Here is another option: https://www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/engine_dyno_stand/parts/RM-8001

I'd think that the dyno shop would be interested in having one of these universal bellhousing on hand since then they can make more money in the future by testing BB Mopar engines. Maybe split the cost with them or something.

Here is another option, BB Mopar to Muncie bellhousing. You would want to verify the pattern that they have on the dyno but I would assume that Muncie would be one of the choices.
https://www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/mopar/parts/RM-6078

You can also redrill your existing bellhousing and/or weld a plate on it with the correct pattern. All depends on which way works out the easiest for you.

For the typical SF situation, you also need a centering ring to locate the bell housing to the absorber.
The Mopar bell housing also puts the engine farther forward, and has the crank farther away from the input shaft.
In order to get the pilot of the shaft centered on the crank, you either need a longer than “standard” shaft, a spacer behind the shaft to move it closer to the crank, or an extension located at the back of the crank....... the latter of which is what we do here.

The bellhousing gets drilled to facilitate two of the lower absorber mounting holes, and we use bolts with nuts to secure it.
We bought the correct centering ring from SF to locate the bellhousing.

None of it is hard........ but someone has to “want” to make it happen.

Jim
Would a JW Ultra bell for a BB to glide and a wheel and adapter work????? Todd

I thought about that. Then I looked at the JW bell on my PowerGlide. It uses the PG pump holes to mount to the transmission. So that pattern is certainly not on his old absorber attachment plate (not a transmission to bellhousing pattern). He will be returning my engine and parts Monday. His full time job is only 10 minutes from my house. The dyno is at his house.

He agreed it can be done, but it will take modifying/making parts and he is not going to do that. He actually does mostly NASCAR cup engines. He has a "plate with torsion springs" for the small dia Cup clutch, as well as the "street clutch" plate that does fit on the flywheel I gave him.

For other Moparts members, Both the bellhousing and flywheel were borrowed, so I can't let him modify them. He would need to buy his own to modify. He said he is not in a position to do that.

I know I am a long ways away, but if you could find someone that has a DTS/SF powermark there is no bellhousing needed.

Joe

Yep, my dyno won’t take an 833 pattern either. I never noticed because any time I’ve taken my junk to the dyno I always took my scatter shield with me and we used that. It has the GM pattern on it.

So I never even looked at my dyno. So now tomorrow I will be ordering a universal fit bell housing so I don’t have to screw around.

This.

Well said! Jim, sorry for your current difficulties!

Jim - Sorry to hear that things didn't go as planned. Maybe I missed it, but do you have a Plan B?

This was already plan "Z". Called lots of places the past couple months...

With all the old Mopar racers and general car racing in North Carolina, I am amazed nobody is dyno testing Hemi engines anymore. Only if they built the engine.

I guess it’ll depend in part on how far you’re willing to drive.

Alan P has a Mopar friendly dyno in NJ, and there’s always Barton in Pa.

You could also call Todd Marsh and see about the shop he uses.

Jim, there's an engine builder/machinist in Conway, SC, named Jesse Causey that has a dyno and I believe he has the ability to dyno a Mopar BB. Jesse is very good at what he does, but works a limited schedule nowadays.
I have never dealt w/ him myself, but member here "ek3" has.

Might be worth a shot to check w/ him if Todd Marsh can't hook you up.

Is coming back to MD too far? Burtonsville Performance Machine was OK w/ dyno-ing my engine before I decided to make the trip back to VT and have Dwayne handle it. And BPM does enough Stock Eliminator stuff I'd be shocked if they can't handle a G2 Hemi / 8-bolt crank deal.

Edit: If BPM can do the job, it's 40 miles from me (1 hour + drive depending upon traffic) and you're welcome to crash here night before / night after to save on travel expenses. Anyway, just throwing that out there.

Jim if we lived closer I could lend you the Lakewood blowshield we used for the Enginemasters , I drilled the needed hole pattern in it so that wouldn't have been an issue.

On that note if it would work I can ship it to you and pick it up on my way back from FL. late May , early June ?

Jim, thankyou for sharing a great build,as well as help on my project. I am sort of lost on what power it will make, but i will hazard a guess of 980 hp at 7200 rpm, and 770 tq at 5600 rpm. What ever it comes out at, it will be a stout ride👍

As said find a DTS/Superflowand there is no bell needed. For one requiring a bell use a BBM to PG adapter plate like sold by ATI and TCI and you should be golden. We have one here we use just for dyno stuff if we use a local shop that uses a bell set up. Not an insurmountable problem for sure. Finding someone with a smidgen of knowledge about BBM and dynos can be the hard part.

AS for power I can tell you my 4150 carb is about 20 HP down on my 540" B1. IMO a vacuum pump is not a "fancy"part these days and I belive is something any race engine needs and will benefit from. As for power compression ratio will kill some, I have made lots of power on unported intakes and seen very very little from ported ones, especially at 572". Id say you will be in the 915ish area if you can get it done.