Re: 727 Aluminum drum vs. Billet steel drum- street driven
[Re: Dragula]
#3020198
03/02/22 12:36 PM
03/02/22 12:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,351
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,351
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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I've heard some people say the aluminum drums need fluid changes more often and then some say they do nothing different for the aluminum drum.  I have steel drums in mine so I can't say from personal experience.
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: 727 Aluminum drum vs. Billet steel drum- street driven
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#3020200
03/02/22 12:59 PM
03/02/22 12:59 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,501
Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,501
Fulton County, PA
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I would not use an aluminum drum in a street transmission. It's main benefit is lighter weight, which equals quicker ETs. That's all. A good steel drum is fine for the street. Even an OE drum IF you aren't racing it.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: 727 Aluminum drum vs. Billet steel drum- street driven
[Re: CMcAllister]
#3020206
03/02/22 01:19 PM
03/02/22 01:19 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,102
Byron, NY
W.I.N. Racing
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top fuel
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,102
Byron, NY
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I would not use an aluminum drum in a street transmission. It's main benefit is lighter weight, which equals quicker ETs. That's all. A good steel drum is fine for the street. Even an OE drum IF you aren't racing it.  In general the failure mode of an aluminum drum is the eventual "wearing in" of the steel clutch plates to the flanks of the drum causing them to stick or worst case eventualy cut thoughteh flanks. This happpens to the steel drums as well but at a much slower rate resulting in a once in a life time purchase vs replacment due to wear. 
'01 P1500, Blown/Inj BAE,/Veney ,Bruno/CS2,Dana 60
'01 Dodge 3500 S Cummins Auto, Fresh air kit, 4" Exhaust,
'05 Dodge Magnum R/T - Too Much to list
'60 Willys CJ5
'01 International LPX - Project,DT466, Allison
'64 Plymouth Valiant, Inj 528 Hemi, 2spd
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Re: 727 Aluminum drum vs. Billet steel drum- street driven
[Re: W.I.N. Racing]
#3020213
03/02/22 01:38 PM
03/02/22 01:38 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,646
Ringtown, Pa.
Dartsport540
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,646
Ringtown, Pa.
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I ran an aluminum drum for about 10 years. Always changed the fluid and filter ever 35 to 50 passes, fluid was always getting a silver color to it. Switched to a billet steel drum about 8 years ago. Car runs the same et, no change. The billet aluminum drum was not any faster... Now I change the fluid and filter once a year. Track car only...
Last edited by Dartsport540; 03/02/22 01:39 PM.
548 cu. in., Bill Mitchell Aluminum Block, CRT 727 auto trans, Alston Chassis. 8.981et at 149.46 mph. 1.204et - 60 foot, So Far....
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Re: 727 Aluminum drum vs. Billet steel drum- street driven
[Re: dvw]
#3020262
03/02/22 04:24 PM
03/02/22 04:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,948
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,948
U.S.S.A.
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My aluminum drum fluid change is about 100 passes. Zero issue on the 2/3 shift so I'd say the plates aren't hanging up either. The only thing I do see is the 1/2 shift takes more time to complete. Zero 1/2 shift flare. My bet is the coefficient of friction is not as great as a steel drum. So the shift light just gets set earlier. Going on year 9.
Doug You shouldn't see a shift flare on the 1/2, all that is happening is the front band is stopping the spinning drum. Shift flare is something you see on the 2-3 , band releasing before the clutch pack is fully applied.
running up my post count some more .
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Re: 727 Aluminum drum vs. Billet steel drum- street driven
[Re: JohnRR]
#3020297
03/02/22 07:55 PM
03/02/22 07:55 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,815
MI, usa
dvw
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,815
MI, usa
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[quote=dvw]My aluminum drum fluid change is about 100 passes. Zero issue on the 2/3 shift so I'd say the plates aren't hanging up either. The only thing I do see is the 1/2 shift takes more time to complete. Zero 1/2 shift flare. My bet is the coefficient of friction is not as great as a steel drum. So the shift light just gets set earlier. Going on year 9.
Doug You shouldn't see a shift flare on the 1/2, all that is happening is the front band is stopping the spinning drum. Shift flare is something you see on the 2-3 , band releasing before the clutch pack is fully applied. It doesn't flare. It takes a longer time to complete the 1/2 shift. Part of this is the car is fairly quick so it gains more rpm in a given time frame. The shift time is a constant for a given valve body/drum/band/lever combo. In this case a Modified Turbo Action Chettah VB, 3.8 lever, aluminum drum, red lined hard band. The band has been in the car for close to 600 passes. Looks like it came out of the box. The only way I noticed it was on tach playback. Doug
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Re: 727 Aluminum drum vs. Billet steel drum- street driven
[Re: hudsonhornet7x]
#3020301
03/02/22 08:21 PM
03/02/22 08:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
TRENDZ
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
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I ran an A&A aluminum drum on the street for a quite a few years. Was warned by Rick at A&A that fluid will come out “silvery”. Also warned that having the pressure turned up to much would wear the drum in the ring/sealing area. This was before steel drums were available. At the time, he was thinking that they might try putting a steel insert into that area. Anyway, I ran that trans for five years before having a driveshaft yolk break. it bent the tailshaft housing. I took it back to A&A to have it repaired/ refreshed. He was glad to see it back because he was curious about how the drum held up under street conditions. He said it looked terrific, much better than expected. Asked about what fluid I ran. I always used “redline AT for towing” my friend was sponsored by redline so I got the fluid at a reduced cost. Anyway, I had no issues with the aluminum drum. That being said… The trans Im building now is getting a large piston steel drum. I see no reason to risk it with all the nice options we have now.
"use it 'till it breaks, replace as needed"
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Re: 727 Aluminum drum vs. Billet steel drum- street driven
[Re: SportF]
#3020441
03/03/22 10:51 AM
03/03/22 10:51 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,602
westerly, ri. usa
440lebaron
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westerly, ri. usa
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IF you use a kevlar band fluid will turn gray (aluminum), need to use red band
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Re: 727 Aluminum drum vs. Billet steel drum- street driven
[Re: TRENDZ]
#3020490
03/03/22 01:31 PM
03/03/22 01:31 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,961
Apollo, PA.
B1MAXX
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Joined: May 2005
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Apollo, PA.
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I ran an A&A aluminum drum on the street for a quite a few years. Was warned by Rick at A&A that fluid will come out “silvery”. Also warned that having the pressure turned up to much would wear the drum in the ring/sealing area. This was before steel drums were available. At the time, he was thinking that they might try putting a steel insert into that area. Anyway, I ran that trans for five years before having a driveshaft yolk break. it bent the tailshaft housing. I took it back to A&A to have it repaired/ refreshed. He was glad to see it back because he was curious about how the drum held up under street conditions. He said it looked terrific, much better than expected. Asked about what fluid I ran. I always used “redline AT for towing” my friend was sponsored by redline so I got the fluid at a reduced cost. Anyway, I had no issues with the aluminum drum. That being said… The trans Im building now is getting a large piston steel drum. I see no reason to risk it with all the nice options we have now. The aluminum drums I am used to have a bronze bushing for the sealing rings. That supposedly IF they wear grooves you can change the bushing.
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