So as not to highjack the battery thread, what type of starting techniques are recommended for carbed , 13-1 big block, race only motors. Question is whether to crank the engine first and then flip on the ignition switch or turn on ignition first then crank the motor. I am using chrysler mini starters. May sound trivial, but I would like to hear of some of your experiences. Thanks, Bill

i'v always cranked it first when hot, seemed to start better, 13 to 1 might need start retard when hot or flip key while cranking

I always turn mine over before hitting the ignition switch.

All the engines I had and my buddy had, flip switch and crank, one (two at the max) turn and it fired. Sounds easy but a lot of prep went into that. One engine was 15.19 to 1

From cold, a few pumps of the gas pedal and go from there. Hot, just turn the key. Ignition is always on while cranking, We use an MSD Grid, from memory it has about 18 degrees of timing at 200rpm rising to 36 @ 1200. We take 4 degrees out in 3rd gear. Mopar (Denso?) mini starter too 12.5:1 580. HTH's

This is always what I did as well.^ 13.5:1 compression worked fine

Which ignition and how much timing at cranking RPM?
I use the mechanical advance in my distributor in my S/P E 85 stroker motor (508 C.I.) with 15.1 to 1 comp ratio, it idles at 16 degrees BTDC and has 34 degrees total at 2200 RPM, I turn the ignition on before cranking with no issues, so far
Some of the later model ignition MSD boxes won't fire the coil until the crank turns over twice

With the old MSD 6AL boxes I always just fire them up like normal. Ignition on and hit the starter. This works on a 14.5:1 440, an 11:1 575" hemi, and a 15:1 436" SB chevy

My current 6AL-2 programmable likes to kick back and I haven't figured out the run retard program deal.

My 12.8:1 stock stroke deal was wired to the stock starter with a 7AL2 in it former life. When warm, crack throttle a hair and hit key and it fired no problem. If you didn't crack the throttle the engine would go a revolution or two and then fire.

On the other hand if you lock out the timing it would make sense to crank and then fire i.e. with a crank trigger. Chances are if you have a crank trigger you also have some electronic capable of controlling timing to some degree. If not you can find an old school MSD 3 step timing retard box for reasonable money. Definitely verify the actual number if you use one damhik.

572, 15-1 34 degrees fixed. Big plenum. Cold, pump 3 times. Let it set 30 seconds. throttle cracked. Crank with ignition on 2 revolutions or less. Warm 1 pump same scenario. Very warm, no pump. Starts in less than 1 revolution. Very cold gets a cloth fender cover over the carbs.
Doug

I had some issue with a few "built" 440s.

What I ended up finding out, bigger battery cable from trunk to starter is required, go bigger than the kits suggest. Get a bigger battery and make sure your grounds are good.

Once these were issues remedied 3 large CI engines crank like low compression small blocks!!! Timing retard and igntion kill not needed then. If weight isnt a huge issue, i got the biggest truck battery i could get. The last one from NAPA had over 1000 CCAs.

Starter button, oil pressure, ignition