i got this BJH balancer [13767 stamped part # ?] with a box of other "stuff", and i need your opinion[s] if it is worth repairing, or just toss in the junk.
the pulley bolt pattern is the early asymmetric pattern.
the keyway is gacked up, which i can re-broach here at home in my shop.
the seal surface is ate up, which i can [i think] repair by either machining it down and making a steel sleeve, or possibly just using a speedy-sleeve. also able to do here.
if i machine it down until all the grooves are gone, then make a stainless sleeve to press on [.0005-.001 press fit], will it need re-balanced then ?
TIA as always, for the WAY smarter than i members here that will help me out.

I wouldn’t spend the time repairing it, not saying u couldn’t but, there could be a possible failure leading to engine destruction. Buy an Ati.

Toss it or sell it on CL for $50.

My 2-cents

If the elastomer (damping material) can't be replaced/rebuilt, it isn't worth repairing the mechanical wear.

thanks to all for steering me in the right direction !
growing up around depression era relatives, i developed a "saving" attitude, then developing a machinist trade and skills, i look at everything as saveable, and go off on a tangent.
probably explains why i have so many projects, and my toys are not running.
i need one of you guys to stop over and whack me upside my head [with that $200.00 hammer, of course ! ] to quit looking at saving everything !

Are you really poor? Is it the middle of a depression? If not then don't save worn out junk. If yes, then save the worn out junk and trade it for food or shoes or bullets.

Today we have the throw away kids, fix it, not a dang thing wrong with it. A little time and effort on your part but no biggy. I guess the ones wanting to sell have $150,000 jobs with $1500 in their pocket.

Good guess!

What is that BHJ supposed to fit? It's machined differently than the 2 for BBM w/ internal-balance that I have (a really one old and a new one I picked up a few years ago)... mine don't have round holes, they have oblong "slots". Can you tell if it's an SFI-approved or standard (non-approved) version?

At one point BHJ offered a rebuild service, which I used to freshen up my old one before putting it back in service; not sure if that's still an option. I also know they offer snout sleeves to use for reducing wear on their aluminum-hub models, but no reason why a sleeve can't be used for a steel one w/ the right interference fit. There's probably an OEM damper snout repair kit that uses a sleeve buried in a parts box somewhere in my stash, IIRC.

Not suggesting that any of this is cost effective, only that there may be options to keep it in service.

Thats their aluminum hub version, not an el cheapo by any means. It lists for a lot more than an ATI. Goes to show that even if you have a lot of money you still can't recognize an expensive part, unless its shiny.

There is nothing wrong with the inside of the snout. Thats what they look like after installation. As long as it has a good press fit going on its good. Then you can brag that you have a more expensive damper than an ATI.

^^^ This guy knows. That's a good piece.

If throwing away then I’ll send my address and pay shipping.

That groove is in need of repair if you ever want to trust the timing light in the future.
A speedy sleeve is simple, cheap and it works. No rebalance needed.

If you can repair the groove then it's a cheap and easy fix.

If your pulley is symmetrical then either elongate a hole, leave the bolt out, or plug a hole and redrill.

You should check the relationship between the timing mark on the outer band and the keyway to confirm the band hasn't slipped. If it has slipped then let it go.

Also confirm a good press fit on the crank snout. If loose then trash.

I would never put an aluminum hub damper on anything. Poor choice of materials for that application in my opinion. The damage is proof of that. Only a slight amount of heat would (and it appears has) loosen the press fit, and worn the key slot.

I did that ONCE, never again

what is the key groove width?

0.185 at the front, 0.202 at the rear.
it's obvious it has been moving around.
i'm considering to cut the keyway to 0.250 if i can find a stepped key.
that is if i decide to do anything with this balancer.

make the key, you could make it custom to utilize the whole grove., also the redi-sleve is a 25 dollar option on those from new.

I think something was amiss on the original install.

Sell it and buy a good one. I had a brand new BHJ once. It slipped the outer ring over an inch around after one trip to the track on a 500 hp engine. Sent it back and had it repaired, but they offered no explanation on the cause of failure and wouldn't return my phone calls.
Been using ATI and Fluidampers ever since.