Anyone here familiar with this stuff? Worth it? Thinking of buying 5 gallons of the reg stuff and a gallon of the "Mouse out" version. just bought a 10 yo pickup truck taht is in pretty dang good shape, I haven't had anything taht new in 15 years. Id like to keep it from dissolving before my eyes as my 99 Dakota my new truck replaces, did. their closest dealers are 2 hours north or 4 hours south of me.... I aint goin there, I can spray my own truck's undersides.

Sounds interesting. That brine is wicked stuff. If your vehicle is rusty and been exposed to it, I don't know if you can flush it out with some kind of marine cleaner before you encapsulate it in oil. I've been using a lanolin based products that seem to work, but truthfully, I believe that any oil will work to stop or slow the rust as long as you're liberal and diligent about applying it.

what a mess

i blast a ton of late model truck frames and suspensions. average three a week for the last 5 years. I do dodge chevy and ford trucks. if you want it to stop rusting. blast and paint underneath and then undercoat or do that oil treatment. putting anything over a failing/rusting coating is a time bomb in my opinion. yes the oil will slow it down for sure but in the end its kind of like a sacrificial coating rather than a permanent solution. my customer just did his 2021 f350 with it so will see how it holds up on a brand new truck. (fords are the worst for rot, then chevy as their frame paint is almost on the rubber side and then mopar stuff which is super thin but hold up pretty well) spare tire area is the worst on all trucks.

blast and paint is super easy on frames and diffs. 1/2 day job at most.

a guy in town does oil undercoating, but i don't know what kind he uses.
i have been oiling my "bus" [99 caravan] since i acquired it in 2014. it came from arazona, so it had almost zero rust except where the paint was knocked off.
i drilled extra holes in the doors and gate, plus drilled holes just above the foam they put in from the factory on the dog legs. also popped the vent holes and other caps on the inside of the rockers, then saturated the foam with oil.
pulled the tail lights and blasted the inside quarter panels good as well.
just about anywhere the factory used foam was saturated with oil, and any place there was a body plug of sorts got the spray as well.
i do this just before the weather turns cold, but that stuff leaks EVERYWHERE when the temperature gets above 60 or so.
so far, i think this will keep this thing going until i croak.
i also took the spare tire out from underneath and tossed it in the back. i did this for two reasons. 1 : oil the floor pan, plus the spare and the crank mechanism can't collect anything that would cause rust. and 2 : easier for my creaky bonzes to get the spare out of the back than from underneath.

I have used machine oil, cosmoline, and 3m cavity wax , formally known rust fighter, and the 3m applicator kit to get in doors and doglegs since the 80s, it works. I now use krown rustproofing oill inside and cavity wax on the underside, the reason being cavity wax lasts a long time, and can be removed with a hot water pressure washer. I think what you are looking at is about the same as krown, just figure out a way to get it everywhere and wash and reapply once a year and you are good to go. Our new cars always get krown dealer applied krown oil, only $160 to do a van. I think with the salt and beet juice mix they use here, along with car washes recycling water, it is the only thing that works short of not driving the car. It does make a mess for a while but...

I had 2 vehicles sprayed with Krown several years ago. The Krown is like spraying vegetable oil & literally rinses off in a few weeks. That was my experience. Fluid Film is the way to go IMO. Smells & looks like the old Texaco rustproofing - the old Texaco was dynamite!

What media do you use?

no comments on the stuff I asked about.... is that telling that it is not any good?

from what i have read about that stuff, it works pretty good, but has a tendency to "wash" off.
if doing it yourself, you can keep an eye on it, and apply more if necessary.
for sheet metal, i would drill extra holes so you can be absolutely sure all seams and surfaces get covered.
and like my bus, removing things like tail lights can give good access to areas not normally covered, but can need protected as much as possible.

I think it's worth a try. Anything is better than nothing. If it doesn't live up to your expectation, try something else. Your driving conditions may vary.

They (NHOU) are spreading around the US, just don't get why no locations around Chicago-ish.