It can be confusing but 1971+ Winchester Gray
Was PPG formula 2314, but coded A4.

1969/1970 Silver Poly was PPG formula 2016, and also coded A4.

They have a noticeably different appearance because the mixes are different.

The ‘69/‘70 2016-code mix is the one I was chasing and seem to have nailed down.

Lots of black accents goes great with either.

Mine originally had black top, black lower body (69 gtx), black hood stripes.
A lot of that is going away for personal taste reasons as this is definitely not a
Strict restoration, but it will have enough black left to give some contrast.

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/race-day-in-michigan-us131.521791/
Scroll down to post 13….


If it’s right(A4) it’s got a discernible green “ tinge” to it.
Love the color, gets lots of compliments

It definitely is slightly green.

The color inherently flops quite a bit depending on the lighting and how much sun it's getting, and I'd have to say that's probably my favorite thing about it.

The sprayout is on the old cut off door skin and pretty large (about 1' x 2') so I could really get a feel for it.
I moved it to various places outdoors while I worked on the car with the service door open.
As outdoor conditions would change, I'd take a peek to the side to check it out as clouds rolled by/sun would get brighter and so on.
The more I looked at it, the more I loved it. Couple times I had to step out for a closer look.

I will also say this is the second sprayout I've attempted.
The first was through Tamco and, although it was a beautiful color it did not flop to green, it was a little too gold/beige and totally missed the mark.
This second was through PPG and as expected + as everyone says it was right on the money, no need to change anything about it.

Was expecting problems and ended up a little surprised how user friendly it was to spray.
Two medium wet coats of base and it looked great. Could have stopped there.
I had a little left in the cup so I did an orientation coat just to see how it would behave, but TBH it did not seem to need it.

Of course staying consistent with the technique throughout the whole car (especially in awkward places like inside the trunk and so on) is the actual struggle there, and the challenge is to adapt and overcome.

Hey Zip…..

One thing I noticed too( after being stubborn/ unsure etc, about it…..I got talked into getting my car ceramic coated recently by the guy who runs the detail shop we use.
All I can say is, wow, it really made the color pop. Paint looks knee deep.
Couldn’t believe the difference. Have some pictures of it after being done on Facebook.
I know you aren’t at the point to even think about this, but when you do…..do it!

I'm surprised no one mentioned that silver was a color that you shouldn't buy back in the day. The reason was it would breakdown faster than any other paint color. Paint of all kinds have improved massively since back then and since you have the the factory color just get the same color in a modern paint formula. You can use the link for reference for different paint manufactures.
link

SAME AS PLUM CRAZY..MY CAR WAS RED PRIMER WHEN I BOUGHT IT WITH SMALL PATCHES OF PURPLE

So, is it agreed and accepted that A4 for 1969 is same formula as AA1 for 1968?

A few years ago, I was able to get 2 gallons of RM AA1 for my 68 charger. I did a test sprayout on a new valence corner from AMD It def has a slight greenish tint in certain light. Looks just like the orig color that is remaining in certain areas of my Charger.

That was about 7 years ago and I heard they have gotten rid of certain toners.

1968 AA1 should be PPG 8588.

Over the years, I developed the opinion the AA1 leans towards green a little less than 1969/1970 A4.
The leaning is still there. Just different.

Disclaimer: Just an opinion and I'm no expert....Someone with a PPG mixing bank could confirm or deny any potential difference in the formulas....I am just trying to turn out good quality work/fairly closely match what I have and wouldn't debate that any more than I'd debate the word "buffed" in the description of one of them LOL.

In 1969 A4 was silver. Later, (71 I think) the A4 code was the Winchester/Gunmetal color.

Not sure when it changed exactly but they are NOT the same color....

And yes the 69 version def has some green in certain light. And IMO it looks great with the black trim, stripe, but I am biased...

Zip make sure you let us all see how it turns out!

Wow! Love the super bee 🐝👍👍

Hope to be in that ballpark when the time comes.
Here’s a pic of my sprayout outdoors, framed next to your car.

Is that an original A4 GTS? Paint code 99?

No. It was born B5

Oh, ok. There is a group of 3 of us North America wide who have original A4 GTSs. One 340, one 383 and my M-code, all paint code 99 special order and all V88 stripe delete.

Don's car sure looks great.

Couple better pictures of my A4 heap.
If I knew how to post pictures better, I would..lol


https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/nice-picture-some-photographer-took.500454/

Well, I got my quantity of basecoat from the PPG store and been working with a couple different brands of clear.

Long story short I ended up getting a new clear gun, have picked out a clearcoat/will buy that next and have the directional info I need for the next steps.

Been practicing on scrap and making good progress, so far so good. Love this color.

Have more prep to do to the car before it's ready, but not really a ton (compared to everything else that has been done over the past two years).

Hopefully the reflection of power tools left on the floor give a good idea of what I'm trying to achieve.

More later....

I have heard a lot of people bragging on Akzonobel Lesonal paint. My 68 Roadrunner is QQ1, which looks like, but is different than B5 Blue. I stole this pic from Darren (Burdar) to be able to remember the name. The guy at our paint store here that sells that brand says they can make all of the old colors, so maybe do a spray out of that before you decide. do the engine compartment in single stage urethane. Even good clear will yellow from the underhood heat after a while. For clear, I like the Universal clear from Southern Polyurethane Inc. I am by no means a professional painter, but I know enough to do my own cars. Couldn't afford it if I didn't....lol. I have learned a lot from watching "Gunman" and "Paint Society" You Tube videos and then going to the garage and seeing what works well for me. Good luck with it. I know you will do a great job.
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

you get the best results from practice and being comfortable when you are doing it. Just prep it as best you can, dont cut any corners. The most important thing i was taught is pay attention to overlap and keep it triggered off the panel. Other than that just do it.... practice as much as you can, no better teacher than experience.

Needed a sneak preview to give myself some motivation + to help plan 3-4 steps ahead.

Learned how to nib basecoat on this part and will do some work on the clearcoat as well
To remove dust As soon as I get the right tools and materials ordered.

Epoxy, surfacer, and clear are from spi. Earlier I also experimented with a less expensive
Acme clear that will get used for less critical stuff. (I clear coated my engine with the Acme).

I know it’s common practice to do single stage In trunks and engine bays, but I don’t have any intention
Of doing that. If the color were a solid/non metallic the answer would be different.
Single stage is made from clearcoat with color added to it, and it seems to be much more of a labor saving
Strategy than protecting against yellowing.
I’m also seeing more trunks and engine bays done in matte clear, probably an attempt to make them
Look more original, and I won’t be doing that either lol.

The color is really cool. the camera doesn’t quite do it justice as it can’t exactly pick up the green to gold flop.
Inside the shop it appears more green the further away you are.

That's amazing, Rich!