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5/8" wheel studs #3001448
01/03/22 12:59 PM
01/03/22 12:59 PM
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St.Pete,Florida
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lancer493 Offline OP
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As I do realize 5/8" studs are good insurance, I neglected to opt for them when I purchased a complete S-60 rear from Strange Engineering a while ago. Wouldn't be such an issue but understand these axles are hard on drills and taps and told best to box up and send back to Strange Eng. It currently has 1/2" studs. Vehicle should weigh 25-2700lbs, around 800hp/ and transbrake w/2.45 1st gear. what do you think. Does anyone know of a reputable place in central Florida that is fully capable of performing this work? Thanks, Bill

Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: lancer493] #3001484
01/03/22 01:18 PM
01/03/22 01:18 PM
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Posts: 19,359
Las Vegas
Al_Alguire Offline
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Finding a shop in your area willing to do it is likely not gonna be easy . We have sent a couple pairs back to Strange to get done. Not all that expensive other than shipping..And yes it should be done on almost every drag car IMO


"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."

"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: Al_Alguire] #3001505
01/03/22 01:39 PM
01/03/22 01:39 PM
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new jersey usa
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11secdart Offline
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new jersey usa
I broke my 1/2 studs years ago and they were only a year or so old, I have Mark Williams Axles I sent them to them they installed 5/8 studs and reheat treated the axles it wasn't much at all a couple hundred maybe , I haven't had a problem since. I had the Holeshot wheels custom made for my application last year and one of the options was having the stud holes made for 5/8 studs which I had done.

62DB5447-AEE1-414A-9A04-26C8ADDE3926.jpeg
Last edited by 11secdart; 01/06/22 09:48 AM.

68 Dart 410 / 904
92 D150 original owner
21 Ram 1500 Quad Cab, Big Horn , Hemi ,4x4
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16 Honda HRV
Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: 11secdart] #3001510
01/03/22 01:52 PM
01/03/22 01:52 PM
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St.Pete,Florida
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lancer493 Offline OP
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Thanks guys, I guess I really already knew the answer to both parts of the question. Thanks, Bill

Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: lancer493] #3001576
01/03/22 03:50 PM
01/03/22 03:50 PM
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Portage,michigan
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B3422W5 Offline
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Ran a heavy 9 sec car using a brake for years never had any issues with 1/2 studs. Must have just been lucky


69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8

Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: B3422W5] #3001595
01/03/22 04:13 PM
01/03/22 04:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,021
Tulsa OK
Bad340fish Offline
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My understanding is that drag radials are much harder on the studs as well.

When I moved to a Dana in my car I went ahead and jumped up to the larger stud.


68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: lancer493] #3001651
01/03/22 04:32 PM
01/03/22 04:32 PM
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Posts: 17,840
S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY Offline
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S.E. Michigan
If you all could draw a line in the sand and say "this is really the point you need 5/8 studs", what would it be?


(Other than "just broke the 1/2", now it's time")


Rich H.

Esse Quam Videri




Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: ZIPPY] #3001673
01/03/22 05:36 PM
01/03/22 05:36 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,021
Tulsa OK
Bad340fish Offline
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I'd say whenever you upgrade axles or rear end go ahead and upgrade, especially on a radial. Its the best and cheapest time to do it. Also most of us don't ever plan to make our cars slower, sure it happens but rarely on purpose.






Last edited by Bad340fish; 01/03/22 05:39 PM.

68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: Bad340fish] #3001800
01/03/22 11:22 PM
01/03/22 11:22 PM
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Posts: 11,524
Fulton County, PA
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CMcAllister Offline
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I would do it on any drag race rear or when specing axles. Small to no extra cost on new parts. So much nicer.

Need? 10s, 1.50 60', >2500#, transbrake, clutch, >600HP, and/or radials. It's one of those decisions that's really a no brainer.


If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: CMcAllister] #3001853
01/04/22 05:41 AM
01/04/22 05:41 AM
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Posts: 9,824
MI, usa
dvw Offline
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Been thinking about swapping to 5/8". Been running 1/2" for 750 passes. 1.2-1.3 60ft over this time period. 3350-3550 lbs depending on index. Foot brake. They are always torqued to 100lb/ft. Checked regularly. Never had them change though.
Doug

Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: dvw] #3001872
01/04/22 09:12 AM
01/04/22 09:12 AM
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S.E. South Dakota !
bigdad Offline
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ounce of protection = pound of cure


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Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: bigdad] #3001884
01/04/22 09:54 AM
01/04/22 09:54 AM
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Morrow, OH
markz528 Offline
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Remember that an improperly torqued stud will be much more susceptible to breaking than a properly torqued stud - both loose and too tight.

Me - I run 11/16 Mark Williams studs. But the threads are 5/8.


67 Coronet 500 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
67 Coronet 500 (street car) 14.82 @ 94 mph
69 GTX (clone) - build in progress......
Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: markz528] #3001912
01/04/22 11:20 AM
01/04/22 11:20 AM
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Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda Offline
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Marion, South Carolina [><]
I ran 1/2" studs on my cuda for several years w/ no problems. 3800 lbs on drag radials running mid 9s. Footbraking 1.32 sixty foots.
I upgraded to 5/8" studs when I added nitrous. Now it twists 35 spline axles instead, lol.


CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
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Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: an8sec70cuda] #3001941
01/04/22 01:05 PM
01/04/22 01:05 PM
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Las Vegas
Al_Alguire Offline
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Las Vegas
Its cheap insurance. 1/2" studs will work til they don't. Seen broken 1/2" studs many times from stockers to super gas cars I have witnessed. There is a famous picture of a Dodge truck taking out the tree in Indy, the reason was broken wheel studs. Truck belonged t a local at the time. There is no magic et" where they are required.

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"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."

"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: an8sec70cuda] #3001947
01/04/22 01:15 PM
01/04/22 01:15 PM
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north of coder
moparx Offline
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stoopid old man question of the day..........
when going with 5/8" studs, how does one modify the wheel ?
if the wheel has a "cone seat" style lug nut, just drilling the hole to 5/8" and using a 5/8" "flange nut" will work ?
if the wheel has an 11/16 "shank style" nut, does one need a piece of 1/32" wall tubing to take up the difference ?
do you need to use "hub centric" rings for the difference in diameter between the wheel center hole and the axle hub diameter ?
i have often wondered about what else may need to be done when using 5/8" studs, but never asked.
try not to beat on me too bad for asking. biggrin
beer

Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: moparx] #3001967
01/04/22 01:43 PM
01/04/22 01:43 PM
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S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY Offline
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ZIPPY  Offline
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I'll also raise my hand just as a clueless idiot, without any age references....

Every vehicle I've seen them on had aftermarket lug centric wheels.

(Which is okay and all, unless the stock look is desired)


Rich H.

Esse Quam Videri




Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: moparx] #3001997
01/04/22 02:39 PM
01/04/22 02:39 PM
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Posts: 4,270
Morrow, OH
markz528 Offline
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Originally Posted by moparx
stoopid old man question of the day..........
when going with 5/8" studs, how does one modify the wheel ?
if the wheel has a "cone seat" style lug nut, just drilling the hole to 5/8" and using a 5/8" "flange nut" will work ?
if the wheel has an 11/16 "shank style" nut, does one need a piece of 1/32" wall tubing to take up the difference ?
do you need to use "hub centric" rings for the difference in diameter between the wheel center hole and the axle hub diameter ?
i have often wondered about what else may need to be done when using 5/8" studs, but never asked.
try not to beat on me too bad for asking. biggrin
beer


I agree all the 5/8 studs I have seen were on aftermarket wheels. Yes - there is a tube to make up the difference if a true 5/8 stud. Many now (including mine) have the 11/16" shank so no tube is required. Pretty much with this setup you are lug centric not hub centric so no hub adapter.


67 Coronet 500 9.610 @ 139.20 mph
67 Coronet 500 (street car) 14.82 @ 94 mph
69 GTX (clone) - build in progress......
Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: markz528] #3002002
01/04/22 02:57 PM
01/04/22 02:57 PM
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Fulton County, PA
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CMcAllister Offline
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The thread on sleeve style studs are basically long bolts threaded full length that the sleeve then screws over, locking the bolt and providing the proper wear surface for the wheel. I have used them, but avoid them now. Mostly because they are a PIA to use as opposed to a true machined double ended stud. Most aftermarket flat seat race wheels have 11/16" holes. I've had to lightly hone wheels in the past when using the sleeve style.

If you insist on using 1/2" studs, at least use decent, US made parts. I've seen studs made from Chineseium that broke and really shouldn't have.


If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: CMcAllister] #3002127
01/04/22 09:20 PM
01/04/22 09:20 PM
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Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah Offline
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5/8" studs are just a better deal all around. I do have one car that came with bent 5/8 studs in the Dana however it was heavier and running low 9's leaving on the bumper. The brand of studs is unknown.

You definitely want to send the axles out to drill and tap them for 5/8. Those axles are HARD! I would not want the bill for a bunch of burned up mediocre tooling at a local shop.

Also take your brakes into account especially if you have disc. It might be wise to send the rotor hats in for modification as well. That or use a step bit..maybe a reamer if you have access to a mill.



Re: 5/8" wheel studs [Re: Jeremiah] #3002155
01/04/22 10:28 PM
01/04/22 10:28 PM
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Posts: 272
Cedar Lake,IN
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d330 Offline
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I have a 3650 lbs car with a 4 speed runs 9:40s-50s. Low 1:30s 60ft Times. 1/2 ARP bolts without issues.

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