Installing a new roller cam. I removed a SFT cam which used Associated springs(Competition wedge engines tells me same as 930 comp spring) and replacing with Pac 1243 spring. Both springs are 1.550 OD. Will i be able to reuse all the spring gear(Ti retainer, locks and cups)? Heads are on the motor as well.

I ran the COMP 928s (same as 930s... don't ask) and have PAC 1243s now. Going from memory -- which is a really tough thing for me to do these days -- you'll need new retainers. Even if the same style of locks work for both, IMO you should buy new locks w/ the new retainers, rather than reuse the old ones.

If you have spring cups which keep the springs from moving around by having a raised outer lip, they "should" work because both springs are 1.55-ish. If you haves spring locators that center the spring by fitting inside the inner coil (no outer lip), you'll need new spring locators, too.

I was hoping not to have to replace the Ti retainers. I'll give it what it needs. Thank you

Alot depends on how close a fit the current retainers and locators are?

What you really need the the part number of the retainer, or just remove one and measure it. Same for locators/cups.

I have no idea of the make of components other than the Association springs. bought the heads with everything on them.

Just compare new spring dimensions to the old spring.

A slip fit is preferred.

Make sure ALL the springs have the pressures you want

Is there a spring tool that measures the spring pressure on the head? This is my first go around installing springs with the heads on the engine.

Yeah, you could try something like this LSM checking tool

That's what I have, when I used this on the previous set of springs the numbers were either spot-on, or very close (I think the differences I saw had more to do with actual valve spring changes as the spring aged).

There are probably other options...

BTW: If you were to purchase this consider that you can get an angled handle configuration as well (as opposed to a straight one that shows above), or you could simply pick up a straight one and get an adapter that allows you to convert it to an angel handle setup.

What engines are you guys working on?

I figured might as well get the LSM tool with both handles, but have only used the angled. I've been using it on a 440 with Trick Flow heads, but the pressures I measure are always low by 20 pounds or so. What kind of "technique" is there to these things?

Small Block Mopar here...factory heads, nothing unusual.

Once the engine is in the car the angled handle makes a bit more sense given that you are having to deal with the other things that are in the engine bay: brake booster, support struts, etc., and may need a way to clearance the pull better.

In fact if I was shopping for this I would still buy the straight handle tool along with the adapter to let me convert to angled-use as needed.

It can get pretty "busy" trying to do this with the engine in the car because you need to do this spring measuring pull while somehow accounting for how far you are compressing the spring. I just use a dial indicator set against the spring retainer to measure the distance.

Do you measure to full lift? I've been using it for seat pressure only. I pull and note the pressure reading when I feel the valve just lift off the seat

Ok i will have to get that on order. BB with Edelbrock 440 max wedge heads. What tool you guys using to remove and install springs with heads on the engine?

To any lift really.

So the spring will have some rating for @seat and specific lift (spring compression) given the particular spring rate. If you want to check whether the spring still holds true to those values (assuming of course that you did that check already to start off with when you originally installed the springs) then yeah, simply push down on the rocker arm until the valve shows the desired lift and read off the pressure the tool is seeing.

I find that tool to be the quickest way to actually check the "health" of the valvespring fairly quickly (stll installed, all you need to do is to yank the valve cover off and go measuring).

Realistically speaking, as you get into more aggresive springs (and therefore higher spring rates) it's much easier to check @seat and maybe half-lift...ha ha, the arm sure gets a pretty good workout. I only did this a couple of times, so I suspect that the engine builders on here probably have much more robust and easier/better ways of accomplishing the same thing.

[I don't normally check springs on the car. Have used 2 sets of Pac 1224 springs. First set were swapped at 200 passes. Zero pressure loss. 2nd set was run to 300 passes. Haven't checked them, but car had no performance loss. Lifters (550 passes) measure perfect. So does the cam and valve stem tips (750passes). 2.25 stainless intake, 7200 rpm.
Doug

How often (miles possibly?) are people changing out springs with solid rollers? I changed out my first set at around 3,300 miles to "play it safe."



The one I've been using looks like the Comp 5324, but I don't remember paying that much for it. It works ok, but is somewhat labor intensive. If I was buying now, I'd get the LSM on head spring compressor as well.



With the last two sets of springs, I brought them to a machine shop and both sets were measured right were they were spec'd at @ installed height and 0.600"(?) lift. And both sets measured low by me, brand new when installed on the heads. I haven't checked installed height myself, but with the first set of springs I asked the machine shop to install the springs with 215 pounds @ 1.950". I chalk the discrepancy up to my measuring technique

I'm always interested in learning how other people use the on head testers. I only check the seat pressure a few times a year, but I do have the AR Engineering plate that would make measuring at lift a little easier

i found a video instructing how to use the LSM tool, they tech mentioned that the readings were going to be lower with their tool than what they actually measure. so it's best to use the tool for tracking/charting your pressures. not for setup..

One of the best things you can do to help your roller valve springs live is to make the # 4 cam journal have a groove all the way around it the width of the oil hole and .030 deep or whatever depth you want
If you're using non needle roller bearing rocker arms, bushed or non bushed extruded aluminum or iron rockers you should have enough oil shooting onto the valve springs to help cool them. If your using needle bearing roller rockers you may need to restrict the oil passage to the rocker arm shafts down to around .040 on each side to avoid flooding the rocker arm covers

the comp is the tool i have been using and yes, it can be a pain to use. Need something easier.