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How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block #3001096 01/02/22 01:00 PM 01/02/22 01:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio northcoastmopar OP master
northcoastmopar OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio	The continuing saga of my 73 W100 that I'm trying to get roadworthy. I had some trans, driveshaft, and motor mount issues that I've dealt with already. The trans has been rebuilt with the correct tail case now I'm on to the engine. My previous thread is here but I thought it would be best to start a new thread. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2912234/1.html Pulling out the oil pan pickup I found all of this crud in the pickup screen. I'm assuming it's a collection of gaskets and valve seals. The crank and rods show signs of the oil being run long/burnt. Given where I'm at I'm thinking about taking the plunge and doing the following to avoid putting a possible problematic engine back in the truck. The engine ran ok, with some smoking when it first started. Oil pressure was a little under 20 psi at warm idle. No weird noises while running. No idea on the age of the engine, not sure it's original or not since there are no vin numbers on the engine pad. Here is what I'm thinking - New rod and main bearings. New piston rings and ball hone cylinders. New oil pump New water pump Replace all core plugs Pull heads and replace springs, hand lap valves, have gasket surfaces on heads machined for sealing. Of course replace all gaskets and new rear main seal. Outside of time and money is there any reasons I shouldn't take this deep of a dive? Is there anything else that I should do? Thanks in advance and Happy New Year.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: northcoastmopar] #3001098 01/02/22 01:06 PM 01/02/22 01:06 PM
Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 21,813 Kirkland, Washington Pacnorthcuda Too Many Posts
Pacnorthcuda Too Many Posts Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 21,813 Kirkland, Washington	Add new valve seals to the list, and likely valve guides too. At that point you might consider a valve job instead of just lapping. Timing chain!

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #3001107 01/02/22 01:31 PM 01/02/22 01:31 PM
Joined: Jan 2021 Posts: 969 rust belt M Moparite super stock
Moparite super stock M Joined: Jan 2021 Posts: 969 rust belt	When i got my 78 it still ran but after pulling the motor to rebuild i found some of the cam lobes wiped. I'm surprised you didn't see the plastic from the timing gears down there. By the looks of it i would tear it down completely and see what you have. Gaskets, bearings timing chain/gear etc are a given for a refresh. Just an FYI watch out for those china made engine stands, I had fully loaded 440 on one and the weld broke dropping it on the ground!

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: northcoastmopar] #3001188 01/02/22 04:23 PM 01/02/22 04:23 PM
Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 1,061 Atlanta, GA M mgoblue9798 super stock
mgoblue9798 super stock M Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 1,061 Atlanta, GA	Once you have it torn down this far you may as well go all the way tearing it down and fixing whatever you find.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: Moparite] #3001220 01/02/22 05:37 PM 01/02/22 05:37 PM
Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 4,066 Mo. racerx master
racerx master Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 4,066 Mo.	Just an FYI watch out for those china made engine stands, I had fully loaded 440 on one and the weld broke dropping it on the ground! Now are we talking about those Harbor freight deals ? Cause i was just looking into one of those deals

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: racerx] #3001319 01/02/22 09:44 PM 01/02/22 09:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,524 Freeport IL USA poorboy I Live Here
poorboy I Live Here Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,524 Freeport IL USA	Inspect the item you are actually bringing home these days, doesn't matter where it comes from. Crap looking welds are usually crap welds. Not all the items in the same lot have the same problem, it could have been one guy on the production line. Probably 75% of a 25 years I was in the welding business was spent rewelding crappy welds on new stuff. If it has a round bead sitting on top of two pieces of metal, its not holding anything. It seems many factories put new people on the welding line that have no idea what they are doing, or they have to work so fast, they can't do it right. That disgrace isn't limited to just products from China, though they were pretty high on the list. Mexico, the USA, and Canada had their fair share of failures too, as did several other countries. Gene

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: poorboy] #3001395 01/03/22 10:24 AM 01/03/22 10:24 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio northcoastmopar OP master
northcoastmopar OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio	Welp, it's getting completely torn down. I'll get the block hot-tanked. Absolutely filthy engine with chunks of debris all through it and cooling passages filled with gunk. The rags in the intake ports are from when I pressured washed the engine last spring. Once I pulled the valley pan I quickly realized that completely disassembly was in order.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: northcoastmopar] #3001744 01/03/22 08:41 PM 01/03/22 08:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,524 Freeport IL USA poorboy I Live Here
poorboy I Live Here Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,524 Freeport IL USA	Good call. Once apart you may still get away with a cleaning and fresh rings & bearings. This is usually the point where simple turns to complex, the old "while I'm in there" takes over and things usually get out of hand quickly. Good luck on your adventure. Gene

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: poorboy] #3001862 01/04/22 07:53 AM 01/04/22 07:53 AM
Joined: Jan 2021 Posts: 969 rust belt M Moparite super stock
Moparite super stock M Joined: Jan 2021 Posts: 969 rust belt	Quote Now are we talking about those Harbor freight deals ? Cause i was just looking into one of those deals It was nearly 40 years ago so no it wasn't HF but one of the china made stands. I got fed up with the cheap crap they sell and modded/built my own made from a hydraulic cylinder(round part the engine turn on) both inner and outer with brass bushings installed. It will not break!

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: northcoastmopar] #3001926 01/04/22 12:29 PM 01/04/22 12:29 PM
Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 8,233 fredericksburg,va C cudaman1969 master
cudaman1969 master C Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 8,233 fredericksburg,va	Originally Posted by northcoastmopar The continuing saga of my 73 W100 that I'm trying to get roadworthy. I had some trans, driveshaft, and motor mount issues that I've dealt with already. The trans has been rebuilt with the correct tail case now I'm on to the engine. My previous thread is here but I thought it would be best to start a new thread. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2912234/1.html Pulling out the oil pan pickup I found all of this crud in the pickup screen. I'm assuming it's a collection of gaskets and valve seals. The crank and rods show signs of the oil being run long/burnt. Given where I'm at I'm thinking about taking the plunge and doing the following to avoid putting a possible problematic engine back in the truck. The engine ran ok, with some smoking when it first started. Oil pressure was a little under 20 psi at warm idle. No weird noises while running. No idea on the age of the engine, not sure it's original or not since there are no vin numbers on the engine pad. Here is what I'm thinking - New rod and main bearings. New piston rings and ball hone cylinders. New oil pump New water pump Replace all core plugs Pull heads and replace springs, hand lap valves, have gasket surfaces on heads machined for sealing. Of course replace all gaskets and new rear main seal. Outside of time and money is there any reasons I shouldn't take this deep of a dive? Is there anything else that I should do? Thanks in advance and Happy New Year. That’s baked and hardened oil from around the heat passages and 2 oil changes in 50 years. Total hot tank, machine everything and all new parts. Don’t buy new clothes but keep your dirty drawers with the skid marks. Last edited by cudaman1969; 01/04/22 12:30 PM.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: racerx] #3001959 01/04/22 01:30 PM 01/04/22 01:30 PM
Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 1,061 Atlanta, GA M mgoblue9798 super stock
mgoblue9798 super stock M Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 1,061 Atlanta, GA	Originally Posted by racerx Just an FYI watch out for those china made engine stands, I had fully loaded 440 on one and the weld broke dropping it on the ground! Now are we talking about those Harbor freight deals ? Cause i was just looking into one of those deals I had a stand in the early 90's break because the boxed channel iron at the bottom actually tore the metal. It was just a 304 AMC engine so it was not overloaded. Learned then if a stand doesn't have bracing and gussets it gets them before being used.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: mgoblue9798] #3002086 01/04/22 07:32 PM 01/04/22 07:32 PM
Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 8,233 fredericksburg,va C cudaman1969 master
cudaman1969 master C Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 8,233 fredericksburg,va	Originally Posted by mgoblue9798 Originally Posted by racerx Just an FYI watch out for those china made engine stands, I had fully loaded 440 on one and the weld broke dropping it on the ground! Now are we talking about those Harbor freight deals ? Cause i was just looking into one of those deals I had a stand in the early 90's break because the boxed channel iron at the bottom actually tore the metal. It was just a 304 AMC engine so it was not overloaded. Learned then if a stand doesn't have bracing and gussets it gets them before being used. I always had a piece that supported the crank snout, actually two, one for when engine was upright and when it’s upside down. Helps on a heavy Hemi.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: cudaman1969] #3007937 01/22/22 05:45 PM 01/22/22 05:45 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 21,637 San Jose,CA migsBIG YouTube is my go-to news source
migsBIG YouTube is my go-to news source Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 21,637 San Jose,CA	Those yellow pieces in the first pic, are those timing gear teeth? [IMG]http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p265/migsbig/Hippo_skull_dark-1.jpg[/IMG]

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: migsBIG] #3008003 01/22/22 10:16 PM 01/22/22 10:16 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio northcoastmopar OP master
northcoastmopar OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio	Originally Posted by migsBIG Those yellow pieces in the first pic, are those timing gear teeth? They looked like valve stem seals

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: northcoastmopar] #3008010 01/22/22 10:24 PM 01/22/22 10:24 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio northcoastmopar OP master
northcoastmopar OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio	One of the heads has this issue with a valve cover bolt hole. The hole had some epoxy in it and was threaded to kinda hold the valve cover bolt. The hole is wallowed out and goes through to the water jacket. So, can this be repaired or is it even worth repairing and I look for different heads? The valves are somewhat mushroomed I had to file them a bit to get them out. The valve guides have pretty sizable side load wear.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: northcoastmopar] #3008031 01/22/22 11:29 PM 01/22/22 11:29 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,524 Freeport IL USA poorboy I Live Here
poorboy I Live Here Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,524 Freeport IL USA	I'd look for another set of heads. Otherwise, your looking at some welding and machine work to fix the valve cover bolt hole, new valves, new valve guides, and probably new valve seats. It looks like that motor was used pretty hard, or had a bunch of miles on it.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: poorboy] #3008091 01/23/22 09:42 AM 01/23/22 09:42 AM
Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,958 Apollo, PA. B1MAXX top fuel
B1MAXX top fuel Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,958 Apollo, PA.	What are the actual stem guide measurements? I have seen them put back together with new seals and a fresh valve job run smoke/trouble free for years. For the thread repaiir: Last edited by B1MAXX; 01/23/22 09:42 AM.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: B1MAXX] #3008101 01/23/22 10:46 AM 01/23/22 10:46 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio northcoastmopar OP master
northcoastmopar OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio	Originally Posted by B1MAXX What are the actual stem guide measurements? I have seen them put back together with new seals and a fresh valve job run smoke/trouble free for years. For the thread repaiir: I don't know, I don't have small bore gauges to measure the stem guides. Looking inside them though there is certainly uneven wear marks and some galling inside the guide. I looked at those E-Z Loks, however they are hollow. Wouldn't I have a potential issue with coolant coming up through the threads unless the valve cover bolt threads were completely sealed?

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: northcoastmopar] #3008199 01/23/22 02:21 PM 01/23/22 02:21 PM
Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,958 Apollo, PA. B1MAXX top fuel
B1MAXX top fuel Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,958 Apollo, PA.	The factory used a stud there. little jb/sealer and a small stud. It was probably a stud because of going into the water jacket. Like the exhaust.

Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block [Re: B1MAXX] #3008314 01/23/22 08:21 PM 01/23/22 08:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,524 Freeport IL USA poorboy I Live Here
poorboy I Live Here Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,524 Freeport IL USA	In addition to being open into the water passage, it really doesn't look like the drilled hole was where it was suppose to be. If the hole is not properly located, then anything you put there for a thread insert will not match up to the hole in the VC. The through hole looks to be more then 1/4 of the bolt diameter off from where it looks like it should be to me. Setting a good valve cover on the head would confirm the position of the hole being off far enough to cause a problem or not.

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