How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block
#3001096
01/02/22 01:00 PM
01/02/22 01:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio
northcoastmopar
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366
Cleveland, Ohio
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The continuing saga of my 73 W100 that I'm trying to get roadworthy. I had some trans, driveshaft, and motor mount issues that I've dealt with already. The trans has been rebuilt with the correct tail case now I'm on to the engine. My previous thread is here but I thought it would be best to start a new thread. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2912234/1.htmlPulling out the oil pan pickup I found all of this crud in the pickup screen. I'm assuming it's a collection of gaskets and valve seals. The crank and rods show signs of the oil being run long/burnt. Given where I'm at I'm thinking about taking the plunge and doing the following to avoid putting a possible problematic engine back in the truck. The engine ran ok, with some smoking when it first started. Oil pressure was a little under 20 psi at warm idle. No weird noises while running. No idea on the age of the engine, not sure it's original or not since there are no vin numbers on the engine pad. Here is what I'm thinking - New rod and main bearings. New piston rings and ball hone cylinders. New oil pump New water pump Replace all core plugs Pull heads and replace springs, hand lap valves, have gasket surfaces on heads machined for sealing. Of course replace all gaskets and new rear main seal. Outside of time and money is there any reasons I shouldn't take this deep of a dive? Is there anything else that I should do? Thanks in advance and Happy New Year.
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Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block
[Re: racerx]
#3001319
01/02/22 09:44 PM
01/02/22 09:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,528 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,528
Freeport IL USA
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Inspect the item you are actually bringing home these days, doesn't matter where it comes from. Crap looking welds are usually crap welds. Not all the items in the same lot have the same problem, it could have been one guy on the production line. Probably 75% of a 25 years I was in the welding business was spent rewelding crappy welds on new stuff. If it has a round bead sitting on top of two pieces of metal, its not holding anything. It seems many factories put new people on the welding line that have no idea what they are doing, or they have to work so fast, they can't do it right. That disgrace isn't limited to just products from China, though they were pretty high on the list. Mexico, the USA, and Canada had their fair share of failures too, as did several other countries. Gene
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Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block
[Re: poorboy]
#3001862
01/04/22 07:53 AM
01/04/22 07:53 AM
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Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 969 rust belt
Moparite
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 969
rust belt
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Now are we talking about those Harbor freight deals ? Cause i was just looking into one of those deals It was nearly 40 years ago so no it wasn't HF but one of the china made stands. I got fed up with the cheap crap they sell and modded/built my own made from a hydraulic cylinder(round part the engine turn on) both inner and outer with brass bushings installed. It will not break!
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Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block
[Re: northcoastmopar]
#3001926
01/04/22 12:29 PM
01/04/22 12:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,233 fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,233
fredericksburg,va
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The continuing saga of my 73 W100 that I'm trying to get roadworthy. I had some trans, driveshaft, and motor mount issues that I've dealt with already. The trans has been rebuilt with the correct tail case now I'm on to the engine. My previous thread is here but I thought it would be best to start a new thread. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2912234/1.htmlPulling out the oil pan pickup I found all of this crud in the pickup screen. I'm assuming it's a collection of gaskets and valve seals. The crank and rods show signs of the oil being run long/burnt. Given where I'm at I'm thinking about taking the plunge and doing the following to avoid putting a possible problematic engine back in the truck. The engine ran ok, with some smoking when it first started. Oil pressure was a little under 20 psi at warm idle. No weird noises while running. No idea on the age of the engine, not sure it's original or not since there are no vin numbers on the engine pad. Here is what I'm thinking - New rod and main bearings. New piston rings and ball hone cylinders. New oil pump New water pump Replace all core plugs Pull heads and replace springs, hand lap valves, have gasket surfaces on heads machined for sealing. Of course replace all gaskets and new rear main seal. Outside of time and money is there any reasons I shouldn't take this deep of a dive? Is there anything else that I should do? Thanks in advance and Happy New Year. That’s baked and hardened oil from around the heat passages and 2 oil changes in 50 years. Total hot tank, machine everything and all new parts. Don’t buy new clothes but keep your dirty drawers with the skid marks.
Last edited by cudaman1969; 01/04/22 12:30 PM.
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Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block
[Re: racerx]
#3001959
01/04/22 01:30 PM
01/04/22 01:30 PM
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,061 Atlanta, GA
mgoblue9798
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,061
Atlanta, GA
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Just an FYI watch out for those china made engine stands, I had fully loaded 440 on one and the weld broke dropping it on the ground! Now are we talking about those Harbor freight deals ? Cause i was just looking into one of those deals I had a stand in the early 90's break because the boxed channel iron at the bottom actually tore the metal. It was just a 304 AMC engine so it was not overloaded. Learned then if a stand doesn't have bracing and gussets it gets them before being used.
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Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block
[Re: mgoblue9798]
#3002086
01/04/22 07:32 PM
01/04/22 07:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,233 fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,233
fredericksburg,va
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Just an FYI watch out for those china made engine stands, I had fully loaded 440 on one and the weld broke dropping it on the ground! Now are we talking about those Harbor freight deals ? Cause i was just looking into one of those deals I had a stand in the early 90's break because the boxed channel iron at the bottom actually tore the metal. It was just a 304 AMC engine so it was not overloaded. Learned then if a stand doesn't have bracing and gussets it gets them before being used. I always had a piece that supported the crank snout, actually two, one for when engine was upright and when it’s upside down. Helps on a heavy Hemi.
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Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block
[Re: migsBIG]
#3008003
01/22/22 10:16 PM
01/22/22 10:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio
northcoastmopar
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366
Cleveland, Ohio
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Those yellow pieces in the first pic, are those timing gear teeth? They looked like valve stem seals
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Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block
[Re: poorboy]
#3008091
01/23/22 09:42 AM
01/23/22 09:42 AM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,961 Apollo, PA.
B1MAXX
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,961
Apollo, PA.
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What are the actual stem guide measurements? I have seen them put back together with new seals and a fresh valve job run smoke/trouble free for years. For the thread repaiir:
Last edited by B1MAXX; 01/23/22 09:42 AM.
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Re: How far should I tear this down - 73 W100 400 block
[Re: B1MAXX]
#3008101
01/23/22 10:46 AM
01/23/22 10:46 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio
northcoastmopar
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366
Cleveland, Ohio
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What are the actual stem guide measurements? I have seen them put back together with new seals and a fresh valve job run smoke/trouble free for years. For the thread repaiir: I don't know, I don't have small bore gauges to measure the stem guides. Looking inside them though there is certainly uneven wear marks and some galling inside the guide. I looked at those E-Z Loks, however they are hollow. Wouldn't I have a potential issue with coolant coming up through the threads unless the valve cover bolt threads were completely sealed?
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