Having some install problems with fuel pump. Pump is installed (2x) but is not pumping gas. Not sure if I have pump arm positioned correctly on rod. Or pump rod is not fully retracted into block, and I am missing getting solid contact rod-to-arm. So here goes: 1. how much of fuel pump rod, when fully retracted, protrudes past block? 2. how much cranking on the engine before I see fuel coming out of pump? Replaced factory pump rod (wore to 3.17) with Comp 4646.
Thanks, Ferd

should pump withen a few seconds of cranking, not sure about length 1/2 inch maybe, should be no gap between lever and rod

The fuel pump rods have been known to wear off a bit over time, some were a little soft from the factory.
I don't remember the correct length, but it was posted on this site at one point, a few years back.

You probably need to retitle this thread asking about the fuel pump rod length. Gene

Not to be offensive but I have never heard of the factory FP pushrods being to soft only aftermarket ones

have you tried from a gas can instead of the gas tank?
just in case you have some other issue?

Mopar Performance (purchased from Chrysler dealer) were crap in the 90’s.

AndrewH-going to hook-up vacuum pump to check gas line from tank for obstructions as a precaution.
Beginning to think new fuel pump bad.

Those were repackaged aftermarket ones, not "factory" ones.

Hmm First I've heard of that. I bought several in 93 and they were all fine. Might have been older stock as they were in yellowed chrysler packaging with no reference to mopar performance

i just measured a "good" factory fuel pump pushrod and got the length to be 3.224 long.
this particular rod came from a high mileage [around 80k if i recollect right] 440.
i deemed it necessary to add to my "stuff", so it must be good.

Maybe the cam along with the push rod was worn????

Are you sure you got he pump arm under the rod? I always grease the rod and turn the engine over until the rod is completely up. The grease keeps the rod from dropping down.

I would think the pump would not go in all the way if the rod was still down but it has been a long time since I messed with a big block so maybe I`m wrong?.

Update. Removed new pump and re-installed old; same problem no fuel pumped. I removed the new pump rod CCA 4646 and measured length; new rod is 3.218 (advertised 2.24 length); old rod measured 3.17. Factory specs are 3.25. I'm not keen on small tolerance numbers, and the impact they have on engine performance. So, the question is does that .022 difference (cca4646 actual measurement v. advertised or .032 difference (factory v. cca646) really have a big impact on fuel pushed through the system? I'm leaning towards "no", but will concede am out of my element and am wrong.
Stumpy- I've been wondering the same. Do I have the arm fully contacting the rod? When I first installed new pump, you could see via access hole, the pump arm going moving, but I'm unsure as to how much swing the arm has.

Not sure if this is your problem but I had a car that was not getting suction from a cracked rubber fuel line. Might be worth a check. Sometimes you can`t visually see the cracks in the hose.

This is what I'd do next. Run a NEW length of fuel hose to a gas can instead of the tank. See if the new pump will pull fuel out of the can.

Where did you get your new pump from? I've had new ones from Autozone be junk right out of the box. Went through this same thing last summer. Determined my old pump was bad, so, I bought a new one and still couldn't get it to run.
It would run just fine pouring fuel in the carb. Took the new pump back and got another one, 440 fired right off.

I have nine used Mopar pushrods from B,RB and 426 Street hemi motors removed from 1963 up to mid 1970 motors.
The shortest one is3.205 and the longest one measured with the same set of dial calipers is 3.227
The shortest one show wear on both ends, the longest one show contact on both ends but no visible wear
IHTHs
I have tested BB mechanical fuel pumps by hand off the motor with a hose in a safe liquid like mineral spirits or diesel fuel hooked up to the inlet side to make sure they work
There is always a reason parts don't work Figuring out what is causing the issue is the fun part, sometimes

Hooking a vacuum gauge to the inlet port is a whole lot easier and quicker to determine if the pump is pulling. One can also use the same gauge to the check the pressure out. Also useful for many other things and CHEAP

Screw it....buy a new fuel pump rod too. It's hard to get the pump installed wrong. I remember just having to bump the motor over sometimes to get the fuel pump rod off the fuel pump cam lobe to slide the pump in. I bet you do have a bad new pump unless the fuel line/filter is super blocked off like you mentioned.