Sorry P- body was talking to DVW.



Heres my ears. ....yours looks a little more substantial.

I have a front and mid plate in my car and also run the similar trans to trans mount fore/aft bars that DVW has pictured also.

I have a question when setting the motor up in a new car connect the transmission to the crossmember After that how high do you set the motor ?? I’ve heard 3° however is that with the rake of the car? Level on the intake? Please keep in mind the crossmember has no motor mounts right now so I cannot put motor mounts in and then put my plate in

with what little measuring i have done over the years, it seems the centerline of the crankshaft through the transmission output shaft ends up roughly 3* down when the [carb] mounting pad of the intake manifold is level.
however, engines have been mounted in all kinds of planes over the years, [relative to the vehicle's chassis] so who knows ?
in operation, the vehicle goes through many different motions, so the carb flange may, or may not, stay level.
toss everything out the window with fuel injection.
just my feeble mind at work here. your mileage will vary.

So what you’re saying is with the car level. It should be 3° difference because the rake of the car with 31 inch slicks in the back Gives the car a little bit of Rack The way I’m understanding you’re saying this is there is a 3° difference between the Crank and the output shaft

You better back up.... first, how much power(be real), what type of chassis... with more power you
want the engine low.. less power the engine can be up higher..I put the U-Joint on the centerline of
the car and center the engine/trans on that also.. that makes better room for headers

Thanks Mike It’s a short deck W8 motor 4in or 3.800 It’s a Mopar performance us forged crank Cutting down the journals to GM at that time I may be change stoke By no means max effort 730 left 12.1 4.165 bore. 72 duster frame connectors 850 cage. 727 trans

In the picture the car had a 440 in it from previous owner And weighed 2700 pounds with the driver

the crank and transmission output shaft are in line, and they should be, no matter how the engine is mounted.
the 3 degree difference is at the carb mounting FLANGE on the intake manifold.
in other words, when the carb mounting flange is LEVEL, the crank centerline and the transmission output shaft centerline is [usually around] 3* downward pointing.
the car can be at any position, any rake, any rear tire. these items do not enter into this measurement.
if you look at most intakes, when they sit flat, you notice the carb mounting surface is "slanted" slightly toward the front.
if that slanted surface is positioned level, and you stand back and look, the crank and transmission output shaft will be pointed downward at the rear. that is the [approximately] 3 degree measurement being talked about.
nothing says the engine "must" be mounted this way. there are lots of other things to be considered.

and now that i have totally confused you.............

Not sure how well this has been covered, but chassis regidity is all important in how much you want your engine block to twist under loads like launch if you mount the engine solid to the chassis. I get away with it because I have a VERY stiff, triangulated chassis. At the very least there will be some twist in the engine block. It may be immeasurably small, with very little effect on ring seal etc, or like one situation I was told about. It broke a block! Which makes me realize my going from a megablock to an aluminum block may need a forgiving type of mount between trans and block.

For any decent power I totally am for using a mid-plate. One other element that hasn't been mentioned is the span of mounting from the front of the block to the tail of the trans...that has to impart some stress to the block as well.