I put drive train in from bottom on the Sport Satellite . . .built the front casters with a plate so I could turn 90deg and bolt it to where bumper brackets bolt to and use engine hoist to lift car - all in two car garage (although I do have 11' ceiling height) . . . had engine/transmission on a car skates - used under wheels of car to move car, with couple pieces of plywood to distribute the weight . . nothing fancy . . .

Lot of great info, much appreciated.
I am seeing a common theme, coming in from bottom is best suited for a car that's apart.
Another issue, as Andy stated, "having the tools to build the tools"
I need to decide whether its worthwhile to get everything needed, for what I hope is a 1 time deal.

I'm in a HOA, so all the work has to be done in garage, so that's another issue.
Would rather not leave my other car in the driveway for the 3-4 weeks I see this taking.
I know that seems like a long time, but I have very limited time available with my work schedule and will only realistically be spending 30 mins a day on this. This all leads to mission creep.
As an example, it took me 2 weeks to relocate the battery to trunk and install the Borgeson box, I know most guys would knock this out in an afternoon.

Having said all the above, I'm still tempted to give it a shot.

If the engine/K-member/suspension cradle is ready, you should have a roller in a few hours. The chassis should have the upper control arm mounted.

Those pics of the Hemi Abody install were 1 1/2 hours start to finish.

If you were local I'd tell you to come over and we could do the job in my shop. I almost always have a local guy or two hanging out in my shop working on their Mopar.

Here’s one with car more complete.

Elevated and cradled rear wheels on other rims so car could pivot and be higher for that K-member table.

This table (first) was too high and has evolved into the low, less wide, and tapered to rear table in the previous picture with the Hemi 68 Barracuda.

This is all Troy’s stuff. I just took pictures.

I picked up this old freight cart for next to nothing at an auction, and using some scrap metal pieces converted for this purpose. It has an awesome set of caster wheels on it, very heavy duty.

I'm leaning towards doing this from the bottom, follow up question.
Car is completely together now, I drive it every week.
Any issues with leaving the 518 in when I pull the 340 with the K-frame?
Seems it would be easier to leave trans in car, then transplant the 5.7 and reassemble?

I'm embarrassed to say it took me 2 days to just get the 5.7 out of the shipping crate and on the dolly.
Tried to lift with the wrong HW, tipped motor breaking wooden dolly and leaking oil all over garage.
Repaired dolly, spent another $100, cleaned up garage and have motor ready for engine stand.

This is gonna take awhile...............

Thx

When you install it, get some all thread the size of the K frame bolts. Cut them 8 inches or so long, install on car where the bolts go, and use them as a guide to get the K frame lined up. Then remove one at a time and replace with the bolt.

Have to figure out how to support the front half of the transmission while allowing the car to move up in the air. Not seen anyone do this before so maybe tie the transmission to the firewall or frame rails somehow? Honestly I think it would be less hassle to yank the trans and engine as a pair.

You are going to want to pull the transmission out of the car.

Something will have to move forward (Engine), or something will have to move back (transmission) to clear the flexplate from the bellhousing.

Now the starter has to be removed with the engine in the car and if you have headers then you may have to move or drop the left header so the starter will clear. You also have to get the upper bellhousing bolts out with everything snuggled up against the floor.

Drop the trans with the engine and the starter can stay where it's at, the headers can stay (if equipped, and non-fenderwell), and the bellhousing bolts can be removed when everything is on the floor.

Driveshaft, four crossmember bolts, speedo cable, and shift linkage and the trans can stay with the engine. Sooooooo much easier.

THIS ^^^^^^^

i do this all the time when something needs to be aligned and is awkward to handle. i have a box full of these things, all painted a[ny] color to match the thread pitch and length. that way, it's easy to grab the ones you want since they are the same color, and not have to fiddle around making sure you have the right thread and length for the job at hand.
sure saves learning "new" words.........

Very interesting thread.

Any added considerations/modifications if doing a bottom takeout
on a 2wd pickup truck?

A big sawzall to cut the frame out of the way?

I think most pickup trucks are built on the frame. So the engine and trans is mounted on the frame and then the cab goes on. I've seen dealerships pull the fenders and cab to do an engine replacement but I think it depends on the make and model as well as the tools and space that the shop has.

If you've got a two post lift then do a body-off, otherwise it's coming out the top.

Body-off isn't all that hard and can save your back and shoulders.

Remove underside body bolts, ground straps, hoses. PS and AC just unbolt from engine and strap to inner fenderwell. Unbolt master cylinder, leave the lines attached and lean over to engine.

Disconnect speedo cable from trans and shift linkage.

If it's a late model truck, harness stays with engine. Early truck and it would probably be easier to unplug from engine components and harness goes up with cab, you decide.

Block tires, place arms under pinch welds and take her up. Do not move the tires once frame is seperated from cab.

The Fords are easy. The Dodge trucks require a few more disconnects on late model. Front bumper may need to come off. !st time I did a cab-off at the Dodge Dealership evryone thought I was nuts until they saw how easy it was to do heads on a 4.7L Dakota. Common practice for decades at the Ford shops.

Take it up slow because you will, with out doubt, forget something.

I recommend you tie the cab down to the lift arms.

1st time takes a little time. 3rd time you do it and you'll never work on a truck engine any other way.