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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: TJP]
#2985264
11/14/21 09:45 PM
11/14/21 09:45 PM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,221
nowhere
Sniper
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Interesting, since Carter went out of business in the 80's. Wonder who resurrected the name. They are alive and well at https://carterengineered.comSeem to be focusing on fuel and water pumps. Iast I knew all was still manufactured in the US the following might be an answer to your question   technicalhotline@firstbrandsgroup.com Well dang, how about that. Learned something new today.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: Powerflow]
#2985266
11/14/21 09:48 PM
11/14/21 09:48 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 324
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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Sounds like the timing chain is OK. I'm very relieved that's the case! Scared me a little when everyone started to mention that it could be the timing chain because I just did that job! When I did the water pump I was also going to replace the chain and sprocket but the one that's in there is a 'roller chain' and in really good condition! Better than the replacement I bought so it's nice to know whoever rebuilt my engine used quality parts.
Last edited by B300 VanDanage; 11/14/21 09:53 PM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2985706
11/16/21 10:00 AM
11/16/21 10:00 AM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 324
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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Can anyone tell me if I'm testing the "choke vacuum diaphragm" correctly???
I pumped it and plugged the hole with my finger and it won't hold vacuum...
Is us supposed to hold vacuum??
Edit: whether I compress it and plug the hole or pump it with a hand pump it's the same result, it won't hold vacuum... Is that the way this little apparatus is supposed to behave or do I need a new one?
Last edited by B300 VanDanage; 11/16/21 10:05 AM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2985725
11/16/21 11:31 AM
11/16/21 11:31 AM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,915
Calgary, Alberta Canada
a12rag
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Calgary, Alberta Canada
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Thats the choke pull off, yes you would need new one if it doesn't hold with a vacuum or when you depress and put finger on the hole. Once the engine starts, it is adjusted to pull on the choke (against the choke thermostat trying to keep close) as engine warms up. Then once warm, holds the choke plate open . . . As for the plugs, I would use them . . . can always take a wire brush to clean up a little bit, or if really concerned, file clean the center electrode and the ground electrode . . .
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2985977
11/17/21 01:15 AM
11/17/21 01:15 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 338
SoCal
RustyDuster
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[quote=poorboy]
Any recommendations on plugs? It's a stock vehicle pretty much... Seems like mine ran fine on Autolites.
Last edited by RustyDuster; 11/17/21 01:15 AM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: RustyDuster]
#2986072
11/17/21 12:59 PM
11/17/21 12:59 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 324
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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As A12 explained that is the choke pull off and the little diaphragm in there is most likely broken. You can purchase them on Rock auto or alot of places.
I really recommend you perform a detailed rebuild of your Holley Carb, your float height could also be incorrect. Take your time, it's a learning experience and you'll learn alot about the carbs operation. I also would not assume carbs purchased as "rebuilt" were done correctly. I have seen some with missing check weights, etc. You will want to set everything to specs on the carb too. I use the Berry dip and small brushes to get in every passage; also be sure to clean the power piston, it gets gummed up and won't retract. The power valve should come with the kit.
Also be aware that some of those gaskets aren't but cut exactly to spec - the Hygrade kit did not cut out the hole for the air cleaner screw correctly which caused much irritation for me!
As an interesting side note, I saw on Uncle Tony's Garage that some of these Holley castings can warp with time. I didn't know this but it seems to explain some of the things I have seen over the years.
I have a 1978 Dodge Sportsman with the same problem which I haven't licked yet. I haven't performed a compression test yet but am going to. A valve issue could be the culprit as well.
I've been planning on doing a complete tear down and rebuild of this carb for a while now, I just didn't expect it would cause such a problem for me on the first drive in months after all the work I've done... I bought the Haynes Techbook months ago in anticipation of this rebuild... The power piston was really dirty, I spent quite a few minutes working carb cleaner and WD-40 through it and now it moves the way it should. I've gotten into the habit of being patient and taking the necessary steps when working on my vehicles. I live far out in a rural area so I use what I can and I had a bottle of PineSol that I ended up soaking the carb body in. Some videos mention PineSol is very similar to parts dip. I soaked for 24hrs and it definitely came out cleaner but the smell is retched and would prefer never to use PineSol ever again! For the gaskets I ordered a Carter kit so hopefully they know what they're doing... Hopefully the carb is the only issue for now... I've noticed during the tear down that I'm "missing" some parts and want to find out if it's intentional or I'm going to need them for the carb to work properly. I mean it always worked but I could always tell that it was off a bit and not working as well as it should... Ok, the first part I noticed "missing" is the 'needle and seat baffle' and the other part is the 'pump discharge needle valve'. The exact model carb I have is a Holley 2210(I think, I might be wrong though) and I'm not sure if those two parts matter or not? I'm more concerned about the 'discharge needle valve'....  
Last edited by B300 VanDanage; 11/17/21 01:23 PM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2986134
11/17/21 04:36 PM
11/17/21 04:36 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 338
SoCal
RustyDuster
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[quote=RustyDuster]
I've been planning on doing a complete tear down and rebuild of this carb for a while now, I just didn't expect it would cause such a problem for me on the first drive in months after all the work I've done...
I bought the Haynes Techbook months ago in anticipation of this rebuild...
The power piston was really dirty, I spent quite a few minutes working carb cleaner and WD-40 through it and now it moves the way it should. I've gotten into the habit of being patient and taking the necessary steps when working on my vehicles.
I live far out in a rural area so I use what I can and I had a bottle of PineSol that I ended up soaking the carb body in. Some videos mention PineSol is very similar to parts dip. I soaked for 24hrs and it definitely came out cleaner but the smell is retched and would prefer never to use PineSol ever again!
For the gaskets I ordered a Carter kit so hopefully they know what they're doing... Hopefully the carb is the only issue for now...
I've noticed during the tear down that I'm "missing" some parts and want to find out if it's intentional or I'm going to need them for the carb to work properly. I mean it always worked but I could always tell that it was off a bit and not working as well as it should...
Ok, the first part I noticed "missing" is the 'needle and seat baffle' and the other part is the 'pump discharge needle valve'. The exact model carb I have is a Holley 2210(I think, I might be wrong though) and I'm not sure if those two parts matter or not? I'm more concerned about the 'discharge needle valve'....
 )
Berryman also smells, but works quite well. I can empathize with not wanting to spend the money, I think a can is 30$ or so. These cars can easily be money pits, gone are the days of cheap parts in junkyards and part swaps between enthusiasts..
For ordering the kit make sure you used the number on the fuel bowl, there are many different variants of the 2210's and 2245's with some slight differences.
Missing Parts:
I've opened a few carbs which didn't have the "baffle" which I'm assuming refers to that plate and small screw. The plate doesn't seem to provide any functionality to the float, as it's height is regulated by the tabs on the float itself. May just be added protection from debris, I'm not sure.
Your missing check weight is much more critical however. This component provides resistance to fuel flow from the accelerator pump circuit when the pump is not being pressed and also reduces the flow when it is being pressed. Keep in mind the venturi is a vacuum and could potentialy suck additional fuel in without this regulating measure. This check weight may have fallen out during your first rebuild and it would be worth it to try and find it if possible. If not, Mike's Carburators may have the one you need. He has some helpful videos on how this particular circuit operates and others. See below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGPXAJkWL6g
I don't work for Mike's or anything, it was just very helpful when I was doing all this![b]
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: RustyDuster]
#2986151
11/17/21 05:34 PM
11/17/21 05:34 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 324
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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[/b]I would consider fully removing the power pump this time, as the fouling could still be in there and maybe caking with the WD40 you used jamming the vacuum passage. The staking washers which hold the pump in are available at Mikes Carburetors. (at my request actually )
Berryman also smells, but works quite well. I can empathize with not wanting to spend the money, I think a can is 30$ or so. These cars can easily be money pits, gone are the days of cheap parts in junkyards and part swaps between enthusiasts..
For ordering the kit make sure you used the number on the fuel bowl, there are many different variants of the 2210's and 2245's with some slight differences.
Missing Parts:
I've opened a few carbs which didn't have the "baffle" which I'm assuming refers to that plate and small screw. The plate doesn't seem to provide any functionality to the float, as it's height is regulated by the tabs on the float itself. May just be added protection from debris, I'm not sure.
Your missing check weight is much more critical however. This component provides resistance to fuel flow from the accelerator pump circuit when the pump is not being pressed and also reduces the flow when it is being pressed. Keep in mind the venturi is a vacuum and could potentialy suck additional fuel in without this regulating measure. This check weight may have fallen out during your first rebuild and it would be worth it to try and find it if possible. If not, Mike's Carburators may have the one you need. He has some helpful videos on how this particular circuit operates and others. See below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGPXAJkWL6g
I don't work for Mike's or anything, it was just very helpful when I was doing all this![b] [/quote] I suppose completely removing the 'power piston' would be the best... Staking washers? I don't think my carb has those, the book mentions gently using a hammer to "crush" a little of the cover material around the piston when installing the new piston... As for the missing parts I wasn't too concerned about the baffle' as I agree with what you said but the accelerator pump check valve looks important! The valve was never in there and I even kept all the leftovers from the Walker kit I used when I technically just replaced the gaskets about 5-6yrs ago and there's no valve I forgot to install... I've put about 20,000 miles on that van with the carb in that condition, always had the rebuild in mind but never got around to it, now I have no choice if I wanna drive that thing. Not complaining I'm actually glad I'm doing it. I've always gotten between 8 and 10 mpg's in that thing also and I'm hoping for better mpg's after this but I won't get my hopes up. Thanks for the recommendation(Mike's), I'll check out the website.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2986302
11/18/21 02:07 AM
11/18/21 02:07 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 338
SoCal
RustyDuster
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It's possible. I would recommend getting the shop manual for your vehicle, they're much more accurate than other commercially available versions. I have the PDF version for the 1978 Dodge which was ordered on Ebay and it does not indicate a difference between the 2210 and 2245 as far as check weights are concerned, but I would consult the shop manual for your specific year and model.
Anyway, good luck I am still experiencing the same problem with my B300 despite rebuilt carb..
Edit: The Hygrade rebuild kits didn't come with a replacement check weight, not sure about the Walker kits.
Last edited by RustyDuster; 11/18/21 02:09 AM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: RustyDuster]
#2986366
11/18/21 11:48 AM
11/18/21 11:48 AM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 324
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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It's possible. I would recommend getting the shop manual for your vehicle, they're much more accurate than other commercially available versions. I have the PDF version for the 1978 Dodge which was ordered on Ebay and it does not indicate a difference between the 2210 and 2245 as far as check weights are concerned, but I would consult the shop manual for your specific year and model.
Anyway, good luck I am still experiencing the same problem with my B300 despite rebuilt carb..
Edit: The Hygrade rebuild kits didn't come with a replacement check weight, not sure about the Walker kits.
Thanks! I really hope I get this figured out sooner than later... I have the Haynes and Chilton guides for the van and I also have the Haynes service manual for Holley carbs... I noticed there's one called the "Dodge Compact Service Manual" and I assume that there's a variety... The Walker kit didn't come with a check weight only needle and seat for the float. The van has always had a stumble at acceleration and sometimes would stall when accelerating in reverse quickly but other than that it ran ok up until this last problem which I'm hoping is the carb but either way was due for a rebuild! What if I buy a check weight and install it even though it isn't specified for my carb? What's the worst that could happen? I'd have to buy another rebuild kit for the gaskets... If I don't install a weight I know it'll run better than before, assuming the carb was the problem and that isn't too bad...
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: RustyDuster]
#2986373
11/18/21 12:04 PM
11/18/21 12:04 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 324
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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It's possible. I would recommend getting the shop manual for your vehicle, they're much more accurate than other commercially available versions. I have the PDF version for the 1978 Dodge which was ordered on Ebay and it does not indicate a difference between the 2210 and 2245 as far as check weights are concerned, but I would consult the shop manual for your specific year and model.
Anyway, good luck I am still experiencing the same problem with my B300 despite rebuilt carb..
Edit: The Hygrade rebuild kits didn't come with a replacement check weight, not sure about the Walker kits.
So far I've found two different posts on the web from people with similar situations. They both have a 2210 and both found there is no check weight in the carb... I'm hoping it wasn't part of my carbs design because tracking down the info I need has proven difficult. I even emailed "Mike's" ! Could the check weight be the same for most Holley's?? Couldn't a needle from a Holley 5200 fit in a 2210?
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2986429
11/18/21 01:52 PM
11/18/21 01:52 PM
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Joined: May 2021
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Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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Ok so I kinda have some good news... I found a video of the fuel circuit on a 2245 and the mechanic mentions that the 2210 is similar so I think this is a definite step towards progress! Here's the link: https://www.carburetor-blog.com/knowledge-base/holley-2245-pump/I've been searching for a needle for a 2210 and nothing so maybe searching for a 2245 might work! At the very least I have the dimensions of the check weight now!! The more research I do the more I keep finding posts of people running into the same situation of a missing needle valve... I wonder why so many similar/same carbs are missing the check weight?
Last edited by B300 VanDanage; 11/18/21 02:03 PM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2986869
11/19/21 03:39 PM
11/19/21 03:39 PM
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Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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Well... ??? Anybody out there?? JK... Here's what I've figured out so far after digging around and speaking to a few "expert's"... The size weight(.59"x.20") that goes in my carb(Holley 2210) isn't sold by anyone that sells these parts apparently and the one person that I asked that rebuilds my exact model uses a smaller(.42"x.13") needle weight. I trust that this person rebuilds and sells them successfully using that smaller weight given they have a 100% feedback rating on eBay... If you're wondering which seller it's "unitedautomotive". So if this person successfully builds a 2210 with a smaller weight then theoretically I should be able to successfully use a similar shaped weight of any size between .59"x.20" and .41"x.13". So those are my findings... I've ordered 3 different weights from Mike's Carburetors and will make my decision once I have them. The size weights I ordered are: .7"x.17" which I will file down to length. .517"x.156" and is the round style. .538"x.14" which is just a tad larger than the one the "builders" on eBay use. I'm sure anyone of these will work! 
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2986875
11/19/21 03:51 PM
11/19/21 03:51 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,118
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,118
Bend,OR USA
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The accelerator check valve is put there to stop siphoning out of that circuit at cruising speeds, I found out about them the hard way back in the early 1960s on a Rochester 4GC carb on a 1957 Chevy 283 motor, it was my bosses car and he ask me to rebuild it. He ran the gas station in SO CA that I was working at. It was my first carb. to take apart and dip it in carb cleaner that he bought and I put back together, I didn't see the check ball fall out and couldn't tell were the new one in the kit was suppose to go so I left it out  He ended up taking it to a local professional shop that fixed it for him. I ask that guy later what was wrong with it and what it took to fix it but he wouldn't tell me  That was along time ago, good luck on fixing all the issues you may have 
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2986881
11/19/21 04:07 PM
11/19/21 04:07 PM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,221
nowhere
Sniper
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While you are in there verify the jet sizes. I had a slant 6 with a 1bbl Holley that got horrible mileage and ran poorly. It had a reman carb on it when I bought it and I put another reman on it with no change. After digging thru the manual I could on conclude the jetting was off so I cracked the warranty seal and sure enough it had a #664 jet were the book called for a #50. Bought the right jet, put it in and it made everything alright. I looked at my go to carb parts source and they don't show that check valve though in other applications I have seen a check ball used when a check valve was shown. That might be an option for you. https://carburetion.walkerproducts.com/holley/?
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