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durango blower motor resistor AGAIN #2984998
11/13/21 10:56 PM
11/13/21 10:56 PM
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ILLINOIS
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volaredon Offline OP
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I've had this 01 Durango for 8-9 years now. almost 300K miles on body. One of the biggest annoyances has been the blower motor resistor. I've replaced it 5 or so times since I have owned. I can tell the PO has replaced it before as well, the pigtail had already been chopped and replaced.
Since I have had it I've also changed the pigtail at least 2x. I have also replaced the blower motor thinking it was wore out, drawing too much current. this most recent one went 2 winters, longest of any I have put in. sometimes I don't even get 1 season from them.
Is there any other resistor I can wire in, (yeah I'm OK with re replacing pigtail to match) that would be more heavy duty than the OE setup? I'm beyond tired of this issue. I think the problem lies in the small contacts at the pigtail/resistor interface being too small (not enough surface area) for the current involved. Again yesterday I was coming back to work from lunch and my wife calls.... (I work about 35 miles away from where she works) blower worked fine on way to work, she shut it off and went into work, comes out for lunch and..... nothing. so last nite I replaced the resistor AGAIN. I drove that thing all over the day before, (luckily) it was fine then. good thing because I had to take mother in law to Dr appointment. Id have not heard the end of it, if it had gone out then..... and one terminal in the last failed resistor, and matching terminal were burnt within the connector.
and since replacing resistor I smell hot wiring again, usually do for a couple days after replacing it......

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: volaredon] #2985244
11/14/21 08:05 PM
11/14/21 08:05 PM
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volaredon Offline OP
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cmon, nobody???? please help

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: volaredon] #2985343
11/15/21 07:58 AM
11/15/21 07:58 AM
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It's a dry heat
gtx6970 Offline
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It's a dry heat
Common problem with late model Chrysler's it seems. IMO mini-vans were the worst.

Only thing I can tell you is when I do them For ANY blower inop issue I install a NEW quality built blower motor and resistor same time and every time. I'll use either Four Seasons or Mopar parts only.

I've yet to have a comeback

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: gtx6970] #2985381
11/15/21 11:19 AM
11/15/21 11:19 AM
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Kalispell Mt.
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HotRodDave Offline
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Originally Posted by gtx6970
Common problem with late model Chrysler's it seems. IMO mini-vans were the worst.

Only thing I can tell you is when I do them For ANY blower inop issue I install a NEW quality built blower motor and resistor same time and every time. I'll use either Four Seasons or Mopar parts only.

I've yet to have a comeback


I agree. And I would add to find one with the plug made onto it not a splice it together yourself deal. If you absolutly can not find a plug and play then properly solder and heat shrink the plug onto it for the best chance of survival. Check for any burned terminals in the connector or even a little evidence of melting and replace the connector on the harness again soldering and heat shrinking it. If you have never soldered then watch some videos of people doing it properly.


I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!



Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: HotRodDave] #2985422
11/15/21 01:15 PM
11/15/21 01:15 PM
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volaredon Offline OP
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That's the only way that I make wiring connections. And the blower motor was replaced either 2 or 3 resistors ago.
For reasons you stated. Failures have gotten further between since the motor was changed but still happening. I have been alternating it seems between both Warner and standard brand resistors.
I STILL this the problem is the terminals between the pigtail and resistor are too small. Not enough surface area for the amp load present. At work I see this alot since they came out with the super mini low profile fuses. I often have to relocate the fuel pump fuse on 09 and newer Ford trucks with these fuses to an unused hole in the fuse box meant for the larger series of fuse.
I replace with the same 20a in the larger series and have never had a comeback on that issue.
Ford even sells a "fuel pump fuse relocation kit" for $20&some....for this exact issue.
Likewise I'd like to find a blower resistor and matching pigtail with larger contacts that I can swap in.
Another thought, for the next couple days after the most recent one went bad I did smell hot electrical/plastic smell when I first turned the blower on but each time it subsided after a couple of minutes.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: volaredon] #2985472
11/15/21 02:56 PM
11/15/21 02:56 PM
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Nebraska
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4406bbl Offline
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The vans with auto temp control are a real pain in the ass, when they switch to low blower the air flow is not enough to keep the transistor or mosfet cool, and it fails. It has a hugh heat sink but needs more, was also told too good of a cabin filter leads to lower flow on low, killing the atc style resistor. I have had better luck with the Chinese resistor, but am sure that will change. In the winter remove the cabin filter.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: 4406bbl] #2985518
11/15/21 05:40 PM
11/15/21 05:40 PM
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volaredon Offline OP
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Originally Posted by 4406bbl
The vans with auto temp control are a real pain in the ass, when they switch to low blower the air flow is not enough to keep the transistor or mosfet cool, and it fails. It has a hugh heat sink but needs more, was also told too good of a cabin filter leads to lower flow on low, killing the atc style resistor. I have had better luck with the Chinese resistor, but am sure that will change. In the winter remove the cabin filter.

this vehicle has no cabin filter. and though I have heard this term when talking car radios but what does "mosfet" mean?

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: volaredon] #2985598
11/15/21 08:54 PM
11/15/21 08:54 PM
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Nebraska
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4406bbl Offline
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Google power mosfet, what I see in the electronic blower resistors is one semiconductor controlling a 25-30 amp load, seems like a marginal design. The quick answer is the transistor is the on off switch, switching thousands of times an hour. I need to look into weather or not the atc blower motor and non atc blower draw the same amps, less would be better.

Last edited by 4406bbl; 11/15/21 08:56 PM.
Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: 4406bbl] #2992406
12/05/21 08:55 PM
12/05/21 08:55 PM
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Central Pa
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moparjim79 Offline
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My sister bought a wranglerin 98. After 5 years of very happy ownership, it started eating resistors. Like she always had one on hand or knew that it was an annual service. It still did it after replacing the blower motor(which I strongly agree with Dave here- replace motor when doing the resistor), after the 4th time, she got really good at swapping them. She traded the car in after about 12 years of ownership.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: volaredon] #2994028
12/10/21 12:02 PM
12/10/21 12:02 PM
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Apollo, PA.
B1MAXX Offline
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I had the same problem. Finally replaced the pigtail and connector, been good at least 10 years now.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: B1MAXX] #2994069
12/10/21 02:15 PM
12/10/21 02:15 PM
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South San Francisco, Ca
70sixpkrt Offline
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I ended up buying the repair kit from my local Dodge dealership which includes the pigtail harness and new resistor for my 2002 Durango last year and so far so good. You can also get it from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/DURANGO-BLOWER-MOTOR-RESISTOR-WIRING/dp/B0040I6E9O


[img]http://www.imgur.com/hxlGUJt.gif[/img]
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13.01 @107.93 with street tires (not hooking up)
Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: 70sixpkrt] #2994115
12/10/21 04:23 PM
12/10/21 04:23 PM
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fredericksburg,va
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cudaman1969 Offline
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They WILL burn your vehicle up. Had a 92 jeep and kept smelling something burning, when I finally got to the resistor it was melted and box was charred, another day and would be flame on. Air flow keeps them cool, slow that down and trouble starts. Make sure the fans rat cage is clean, if those fins-trays get full = no air flow.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: cudaman1969] #2994295
12/11/21 10:17 AM
12/11/21 10:17 AM
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volaredon Offline OP
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on this one smell is more noticeable on high blower speed. Blower motor replaced along with resistor 2-3 resistors ago. I dont remember any of the past ones smelling hot. just all of a sudden " don't work" one day.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: B1MAXX] #2994301
12/11/21 10:36 AM
12/11/21 10:36 AM
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volaredon Offline OP
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Originally Posted by B1MAXX
I had the same problem. Finally replaced the pigtail and connector, been good at least 10 years now.


have "only" owned 8 years not 10+ like you (yet, it's coming haha)) and it had been done (replaced) at least once before I bought it, and spliced poorly by (or for) PO. This vehicle came from the South, where AC would have gotten alot more use than heat, opposite now (I am near Chicago) I've replaced pigtail 2x myself since (why are they so damn expensive?) once aftermarket and one genuine Mopar. and at least 4 or 5 resistors. and 1 new blower motor in that time thinking a new one would draw less current.
On the choice in terminals... I see in the pic with the Amazon link a notice in the package stating a warning about not using the gold plated terminals unless the originals also were... I doubt that would have been the case in 2001 when this thing was brand new. but I'm gonna have to replace the connector AGAIN. One terminal was obviously burnt within the existing plug. but I didn't have one nor the time to replace the last time it croaked.
but why wouldn't you want to automatically use the gold plated ones, as to me, the issue is too little surface area for the current in the line to pass similar to a circuit with too light of gauge size of wire. I would think the gold plating would provide the best conductivity, least resistance possible. I do know that alot of cars have the airbag circuit connectors gold plated, as well. and they come with the connector kit in this case, anyways.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: volaredon] #2994356
12/11/21 02:09 PM
12/11/21 02:09 PM
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fredericksburg,va
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cudaman1969 Offline
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How well can you feel the air blow out the duck on low speed? On high speed? Check another vehicle with same test. If you’re not getting air speed check all doors, vents and outside vent for obstructions. Take resister out and hook to 12 volts, watch it glow hot then blow over it with the air hose, it cools down and stops glowing.

Last edited by cudaman1969; 12/11/21 02:10 PM.
Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: cudaman1969] #2994463
12/11/21 08:20 PM
12/11/21 08:20 PM
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volaredon Offline OP
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pretty decent feeling airflow. this one dont have the visible coils like the older style, don't think I'd see anything glowing with the newer style resistor.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: volaredon] #2994473
12/11/21 09:20 PM
12/11/21 09:20 PM
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fredericksburg,va
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cudaman1969 Offline
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What year did they change? I have an 01 and have changed it two times myself after I picked it up 3 years ago.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: cudaman1969] #2994716
12/12/21 07:06 PM
12/12/21 07:06 PM
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Freeport IL USA
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poorboy Offline
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I'm probably out of line here, but I think I would look into moving the the resister to a different location where there may be more, or cooler air flow. If you need to change the pigtail, I would also check into using the old style blower motor resistor in that different location.

The purpose of the blower resistor is to reduce the voltage to the blower motor, and the reason for putting it in the heater box duct work is to help cool it. Nothing says the resister needs to be placed in the heater unit or the heater duct work, just that the blower motor wiring and the switch wiring needs to be connected to it to function. You can leave the dead resister mounted in its original position to plug the hole in the heater box/duct work, just don't connect the wire plug to it, connect the wire plug to the other unit in its new location.

I build hot rods, the blower motor resister on my 49 truck is between the fender and the inner fender where it is kept dry, out of harms way, out of the way where things flammable can't reach it, and has enough air moving past it to keep it cool. The heater box and duct wort are a least 12" away from the resister. Gene

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: poorboy] #2994741
12/12/21 08:13 PM
12/12/21 08:13 PM
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Apollo, PA.
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I would put a new resistor, new pigtail (thats what was emitting the burning smell on mine) soldered and shrink tube, no butt crimps The only other thing I did was packed the connector as best I could and the pins with dielectric grease.

Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN [Re: B1MAXX] #2994765
12/12/21 08:57 PM
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volaredon Offline OP
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I have 2 more pigtails and resistors on the way via Amazon, for what they want for the Mopar ones I can get 3 others shown there, with lunch money left,
and I always crimp w/ uninsulated butt connector, solder and protect with the "good grade" of heat shrink with the built in adhesive. Always. and I have another (forget which) either Borg Warner or Standard resistor new in the box for "just in case"/
I wish I could figure out a comparable part and pigtail, from some other make/model that has larger contacts, that I could retrofit in place of this one.

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