I was a guinea pig for the first go round of the Aussie belt drives. It went back a few times to have things "tweaked". In the end we just fixed it and had no issues after that. In fact it was sold to a member here when I was done with it. New parts blues, was on my Valiant. Oh yeah we got nothing when I bought mine as far as any instructions. I believe this is a new owner now too.

Al,
How did you set cam end play?

I'm not Al but I used used the timing cover gasket to set end play. I bought from several manufactures, I have from .010 to .080..... Cometic, SCE, Mopar, FelPro, SuperPerformance, Mr Gasket, etc

I can't remember who I bought mine from but it was from someone here on moparts probably 12 years ago, it might have been Al..lol

And Jim, you said this isn't a max performance build, but 15:1 and .800 lift cam sounds really close to max NA build..lol looking forward to reading about your build.

What Wade said...On both accounts

BTW congrats on that S/ST victory Wade!!

I figure since I am running alcohol, I might as well build a CR between 14.5 and 15.0
And B1 heads using 1.7 rockers ends up with 0.800" lift easy, IMO 0.850" would be more typical, especially for large CID engines (572-604 etc).

A more serious build should have a two four tunnel ram on it to feed the 572 CID.
Then a dry sump oiling system, vacuum pump, etc...

This isn't a street engine.... LOL

I will take a few more measurements to estimate what gasket thickness is likely to be needed. I do have a regular 0.035" and a SuperPerformance 0.047" on hand already.

Thank you sir!

I just noticed that UEM/ICON is listing a piston similar to those I bought, but for a Low deck 4.500” bore x 4.250" stroke
IC427CAKTS.STD
ICON Forged Coated Anodized Piston - Chrysler/Dodge 550ci, B1 head, aftermarket block. Kit W/Rings
Requires aftermarket block. Dome designed for Brodix B-1 heads. Gas ported. Anodized crown and top ring groove. UltraWearM42 skirt coating.

Link to UEM/ICON web site

1.305" compression height

See the pictures of my B1 pistons in Part 2 of my posts. Link to Part 2 piston post

I grind cranks, and have offset ground 3 similar cranks. One was hard chromed and ended at 4.580" stroke due to the flaking chrome layer thickness, but the others got the full stroke 4.67". Planning for a bracket motor 4,6" x 4.67" with B1 originals, just a fun-project

Jim,

I might’ve missed it, but are you planning to run a vacuum pump? I seem to remember we went belt off/belt on with my Moroso Enhanced pump on a couple pulls and it did pick up on HP with the pump. If that gas carb is good you’ll be north of your HP goal, and with how you set up your car you’ll definitely surpass your ET goal. That thing is gonna fly.

My 540 made 916HP/7300 and 732TQ/5900. 1250 Dom, 15.1 comp, and nitrous cam was 280/295@.050 .818/.819 lift on 113 lobe sep. Jesel belt drive & T&D rockers. My B1 O’s were not ported and nowhere near your flow numbers. Dwayne cleaned up the bowls, polished the chambers and gasket matched the intake ports. Best N/A it went 9.17/148 at 3475#’s, Glide, Hutch spec’d Chance Bolt Together, 4.10’s, 30” ET Streets, Ladderbars with decent surface. Definitely looking forward to seeing your initial results. When you roll up to the time-slip booth following the first pass, make sure your helmet is off and someone is there to take a photo of your smile!

Wes

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Wes...With the amount of nitrous that engine was supposed to ingest, I'm surprised ole scotty only went w/ a 113 LSA given how he loves those wide LSAs on everything.

Chip…hahaha yes. So long ago I don’t remember. Scotty picked and we went with it.

i was about to say the same thing.
dj

Wes,
Thanks for sharing the article on your B1 engine.
I don't plan to put a vacuum pump on; at least not the first year.
Your pistons do look similar to the ones I bought (lateral gas ports, small dome, large valve reliefs, top and side coatings,etc.
My heads were cut down to 60cc, and my compression ratio will be close to 15.0

The elongation of the pushrod hole in your heads is more than I initially did. I will double check with another mockup when my block comes back from the machine shop and I can put a cam in the block (they are putting the cam bearings in for me). The article mentions enlarging the "oil drain back holes" , it looks like they are the exhaust pushrod holes. Are all of them done like that or just the ends?
I am hoping to put a regular MSD billet distributor in mine. Hopefully it can be done with only a little clearancing of the head and valve cover rail.

You're welcome, Jim. The elongation.....the tapered Manton pushrods in that build made drumsticks look tiny. To answer your question I believe it was just the ends (not all) if I remember correctly. Chuck went the extra mile to ensure the oil drain back was in good order, no clearance issues, etc. Also, the fittings/lines just under the center exhaust ports, I wanted those tapped for running coolant through there from the Meziere pump to help cool down the exhaust valves area since they're so close to each other (nitrous stuff). Minimal mod with an MSD Pro BIllet distributor, but which design valve covers are you planning to use?

Sorry to hijack Jim's post, how different are the paired T&D rockers to the common shaft set up in regards to external clearances?

I made some billet valve covers years ago, I really wanted to be sure they would clear both styles of rockers, but couldn't find anyone running the paired shaft style. So I benched the project.

Part 1-Hedman Header Dyno Weld up kit. Buying Parts

Headers are both an engine and trans/converter/chassis/application part. But I am listing them in Part 1- Buying Parts.
I decided to try the Hedman Dyno Weld up header kit for the Chrysler big block wedge engine. Hopefully this will reduce the amount of cutting/fitting/welding to make headers for this engine in my Daytona tube chassis drag race car. IMO, this application could use either the 2-1/4” tubes or 2-3/8” tubes. One will favor the RPM range just above torque peak, and the larger tubes could be used for peak top RPM horsepower.

As delivered, the tube lengths are about 40” using a tape measure inside the tubes. All tubes have a long length (~6”) from the head to the first bend (for dyno applications), so they can be shortened if desired for a car. Also, there is a long (~10”) straight section in each tube before the collector, so the overall desired length can be shortened even more. Therefore, these numbers should be considered the maximum tube lengths without extensions.

The Hedman catalog says the rear tube must be cut and rotated. As you can see the #7 tube is pointing away from the engine. It appears to be the same part as the #8 mandrel bent tube. But I expect to cut/fit/weld more to route in my car’s chassis and exit where I want.

I didn’t like the flanges that came with the Hedman kit. They were a little rough cut and the port didn’t match my heads. So, I had a local Laser Cutting shop make custom flanges for me to my specs. They are 3/8” thick and the opening is shaped like my ports, and sized for a 2-1/4” tube to be inserted and welded.

What firing order is the cam? I don't think the diameters are too far off. It'd probably like 30-32", but I would run it thru pipemax and use their targets.

Standard firing order.
I haven't picked the final lengths. But was thinking 30"-32"

Are you planning on running a vacuum pump on this engine?