I did exactly what you described, it may be better to bypass alternator gauge, but not necessary.

Tomorrow I am going to start the swap to a Denso alternator on my 1970 Dart. I have the 60 amp alternator and the AR Engineering bracket kit. I know this has been discussed countless times, and I have read all the threads and the articles from MAD electrical. But here's my specific question: Since I'm only going to 60 amps can I just leave the original alternator wire connected and add a 10 gauge wire with a 14 gauge fusible link running to the battery? Will that be safe and adequate, or do I also need to bypass the firewall connector and disconnect the amp gauge? (I know the amp gauge will no longer be accurate but I already have a volt gauge on the car) TIA!

Yes, that is exactly what I recommend in the instructions. The new 10 ga wire from the alternator to the battery should have lower resistance than the existing path thru the firewall so the output of the alternator will flow directly to the battery rather than thru the firewall. You can check this very easily if you have a clamp on ammeter. The clamp on ammeter will show you how much current is flowing to the battery and how much is flowing thru the firewall connector. I use a clamp on ammeter to double check all of the wiring on any new project. It will quickly show you if the grounds are working and how much current is flowing in each wire.

Since I'm only going to 60 amps can I just leave the original alternator wire connected and add a 10 gauge wire with a 14 gauge fusible link running to the battery? Will that be safe and adequate, or do I also need to bypass the firewall connector and disconnect the amp gauge? (I know the amp gauge will no longer be accurate but I already have a volt gauge on the car) TIA!

Harbor Freight has clamp meters for as little as $15 although I don't know how accurate they are. I bought one off of Amazon for about $50 and I use it all the time. Most of them have AC/DC switch so you can use them in the house or shop to measure amps in house wiring also.

Yes, that is exactly what I recommend in the instructions. The new 10 ga wire from the alternator to the battery should have lower resistance than the existing path thru the firewall so the output of the alternator will flow directly to the battery rather than thru the firewall. You can check this very easily if you have a clamp on ammeter. The clamp on ammeter will show you how much current is flowing to the battery and how much is flowing thru the firewall connector. I use a clamp on ammeter to double check all of the wiring on any new project. It will quickly show you if the grounds are working and how much current is flowing in each wire.

Please correct me if I'm wrong ppl, BUT clamp meters are designed just for AC amperage. DC amperage needs a diff meters for high loads. Some multimeters are able to measure small DC amperage due built in shunts, but high loads on DC needs a diff tooling.

Most multimeters with AC and DC capabilities are for voltage,

Since I am going to be eliminating the voltage regulator, can I repurpose one of the other existing connections from the alternator to the VR to act as the 12V sensing wire? I'm trying to avoid hacking my wiring looms as much as I can. If I understand the wiring diagram correctly, the 2 remaining wires that originally connected to the alternator are now extraneous since I'm "losing" the original voltage regulator.

*EDIT* So, I found this diagram of the charging system and VR and I'm thinking I can use the existing IGN +/Field + wire from the VR to feed the switched 12 volt lead on the alternator, and repurpose the Field neg wire to use as the 12V sensing wire. Does that make sense or am I missing something?

The Denso 60 amp alternator needs two 12 volt connections. One is "sense" and the other is the "turn on". If you have a well behaved wiring system those two wires can both be connected to the same place. If you have a lot of voltage drop in your wiring harness then you need to find a good 12 volt source for the turn on (key on power) line and the sense wire should go someplace that can accurately tell the alternator what the battery voltage is.

The one I purchased does both. To quote the product description: "The IDEAL 61-747 TightSight™ Clamp Meter is a CAT III 600 V rated auto ranging true root mean square (TRMS) digital clamp meter that measures up to 400 Amps AC and DC current via the clamp head.

Oh! Cool! Just checked it... seems to be nice! I have allways thought the clamp meteres used to be for AC Only! I have one, but is just AC as far I recall.

I got a Denso alternator a while back but haven't used it yet because I didn't like how the belt rides high in the pulley. I looked at a couple other Denso's of that era at the parts store and they had the same narrow pulley.

I noticed in the AndyF Denso conversion picture the belt is riding at the correct depth. Are wider pulleys available for the 4Runner Denso alternators?

Planning on serpentine belt the flathead in my 51 so I found this

https://www.emachineshop.com/pulley-design-software/