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Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick #2963225
09/12/21 12:49 PM
09/12/21 12:49 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
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larrymopar360  Offline OP
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Central Florida
Looking at a super solid '10 Pursuit with super high miles and engine/idle hours at auction and if I can get it for a good price I will buy. I really like the 10's and this one is clean but the tick is very pronounced.

If you were replacing camshaft and lifters in one right now what brand would you be going with? I read good about Johnson Lifters but I'm really lost in a sea of information. I don't want to change cam specs just possibly brands for durability.

Edit: I don't necessarily have an issue with going OEM. Just want to go with what seems to be best option now.

Last edited by larrymopar360; 09/12/21 03:24 PM.

Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2963417
09/12/21 09:19 PM
09/12/21 09:19 PM
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mk_ Offline
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I have a 2010 power wagon with a 5.7 and have been chasing the dreaded tick for awhile.
Pulled the rockers and found the pushrods had the top ball worn badly on a few and some of the rockers looked like the pushrod hole had irregular wear so replaced the rockers with new originals and the pushrods with comp cams replacements that are slightly longer than stock.
Was a big improvement but still had a tick so replaced the cam and lifters with original parts…… the lifters are the upgraded oem replacements.
Sounded better after the new cam and lifters but still had a tick when hot so now have the heads rebuilt with new stainless valves with hardened tips….. my original high mileage valves showed lots of wear on the tips.
Came to the conclusion I will run the best synthetic oil possible in these engines t help slow down the wear.

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2963432
09/12/21 10:13 PM
09/12/21 10:13 PM
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Delaware
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biff426 Offline
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I bought a 2011 for my son it had a tick. I bought a 6.4 SRT cam and the new upgraded lifters. Used the Mopar performance springs and new pushrods. I found the valve tips worn really bad and digging into it I found the rocker has worn the shafts and actually wore the oil holes closed on the shaft. I had all the valves replaced and bought all new rockers. Noise is gone and it ran perfect with no tune. I did have it tuned it made 388 at the rear tires with just the cam swap. if your going to do it buy the srt cam its way cheaper then aftermarket and they run better. My buddy tunes these all the time and the mid range is great with the srt cam vs the aftermarket where you give up power down low and in the middle.

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: biff426] #2963986
09/14/21 11:48 AM
09/14/21 11:48 AM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
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larrymopar360  Offline OP
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I've heard go with srt cam but worried about if tune was a necessity. I realize there's probably going to be a need for valve springs and possibly push rods and rockers as well when these things are taken apart. I guess the whole top end may be needing refurb. Then water pump and timing chain while apart.

I probably should've described the noise as a clack and loud instead of the tick by the way. They tell me it will go away at times but at start up sometimes it is there, and LOUD and takes quite awhile to go away.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2964140
09/14/21 08:12 PM
09/14/21 08:12 PM
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moparjim79 Offline
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Originally Posted by larrymopar360
I've heard go with srt cam but worried about if tune was a necessity. I realize there's probably going to be a need for valve springs and possibly push rods and rockers as well when these things are taken apart. I guess the whole top end may be needing refurb. Then water pump and timing chain while apart.

I probably should've described the noise as a clack and loud instead of the tick by the way. They tell me it will go away at times but at start up sometimes it is there, and LOUD and takes quite awhile to go away.


Thats the same thing my mds lifters did and then the sound DIDNT go away.

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: moparjim79] #2964354
09/15/21 11:57 AM
09/15/21 11:57 AM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
I'm tired...Very tired.
larrymopar360  Offline OP
I'm tired...Very tired.

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Central Florida
Originally Posted by moparjim79
Originally Posted by larrymopar360
I've heard go with srt cam but worried about if tune was a necessity. I realize there's probably going to be a need for valve springs and possibly push rods and rockers as well when these things are taken apart. I guess the whole top end may be needing refurb. Then water pump and timing chain while apart.

I probably should've described the noise as a clack and loud instead of the tick by the way. They tell me it will go away at times but at start up sometimes it is there, and LOUD and takes quite awhile to go away.


Thats the same thing my mds lifters did and then the sound DIDNT go away.
Yes I'm figuring that's the eventuality. Did you eliminate the MDS and replace cam/lifters?


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2964404
09/15/21 02:05 PM
09/15/21 02:05 PM
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Central Pa
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moparjim79 Offline
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I was incredibly fortunate. After I removed the heads/pushrods/lifter packs, I used a borescope to check the cam lobe condition which was almost new looking. I also pulled the oil control valve and it was 100% free of metal shavings/debris. I replaced the cylinder 2/4 pack and all was well. Just an fyi, it did throw an mds solenoid code and very seldom threw a cyl 4 misfire code(the mds cylinder). My push to open the top end up was the aforementioned clacking that one day did not got away after start up and immediately threw a cyl 4 code, and made the vehicle run like poop. Doing an MDS DELETE, even if you do it yourself, even if you buy all your parts from a place like mopar parts direct.com, will still put you damn near if not well over the $2k mark. Anyone is free to try to argue, but once you tally up everything including securing a handheld and a tune, you'll see its probably closer to $3k. If you have the funds available I would totally go mds delete. I know HOTRODDAVE and I have our own opinions about this, but thats my opinion.

I guess a good question to you would be what is your intended usage?

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: moparjim79] #2964444
09/15/21 04:29 PM
09/15/21 04:29 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
I'm tired...Very tired.
larrymopar360  Offline OP
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
Originally Posted by moparjim79
I was incredibly fortunate. After I removed the heads/pushrods/lifter packs, I used a borescope to check the cam lobe condition which was almost new looking. I also pulled the oil control valve and it was 100% free of metal shavings/debris. I replaced the cylinder 2/4 pack and all was well. Just an fyi, it did throw an mds solenoid code and very seldom threw a cyl 4 misfire code(the mds cylinder). My push to open the top end up was the aforementioned clacking that one day did not got away after start up and immediately threw a cyl 4 code, and made the vehicle run like poop. Doing an MDS DELETE, even if you do it yourself, even if you buy all your parts from a place like mopar parts direct.com, will still put you damn near if not well over the $2k mark. Anyone is free to try to argue, but once you tally up everything including securing a handheld and a tune, you'll see its probably closer to $3k. If you have the funds available I would totally go mds delete. I know HOTRODDAVE and I have our own opinions about this, but thats my opinion.

I guess a good question to you would be what is your intended usage?
Good info thank you. Daily drive usage no track time. More power always nice but no lopey idle wanted and a little less gas mileage is okay if it's believed that dumping MDS to go with different cam and lifters extends durability. I know that opens a whole new argument with many. Gotten more info on this car and it did clack badly at one start up, CEL came on (related???) and showed misfire cyl 4 and 7. No other misfires. I don't mind putting $3k ish into it and having a sturdy 5.7.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2964446
09/15/21 04:40 PM
09/15/21 04:40 PM
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moparjim79 Offline
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I can almost promise you knowing now what you've posted, if you buy this you're doing a cam and lifter job. If you stick with stock, buy ALL NEW Mds solenoids along with all the other necessary parts, and lubricate the orings with something like sil glyde or super lube. I have never been able to remove a factory one, even on a 16k mile car, without destroying it. They are known to collect metal flakes and shavings like the oil control valve(which i would also replace while in there).

Since this is in a car, its gonna be an easy job. Please let us know what happens!

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: moparjim79] #2964468
09/15/21 05:52 PM
09/15/21 05:52 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
I'm tired...Very tired.
larrymopar360  Offline OP
I'm tired...Very tired.

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
Originally Posted by moparjim79
I can almost promise you knowing now what you've posted, if you buy this you're doing a cam and lifter job. If you stick with stock, buy ALL NEW Mds solenoids along with all the other necessary parts, and lubricate the orings with something like sil glyde or super lube. I have never been able to remove a factory one, even on a 16k mile car, without destroying it. They are known to collect metal flakes and shavings like the oil control valve(which i would also replace while in there).

Since this is in a car, its gonna be an easy job. Please let us know what happens!
I shall thank you. I definitely am going into figuring minimally cam and lifters, probably valve springs and possibly push rods and rockers.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2965219
09/18/21 11:51 AM
09/18/21 11:51 AM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
I'm tired...Very tired.
larrymopar360  Offline OP
I'm tired...Very tired.

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Central Florida
I got the car for a good price. White '10 Pursuit. Zero rust a few small dings but overall very nice shiny paint good interior

First thing I did was dump the oil. It didn't look out of ordinary until I looked at drain plug. It had what appeared to be small black pieces of melted plastic attached to it. Definitely abnormal. It wasn't metal; I was able to smear it around between my fingers like hard but melted now plastic. I had warmed up engine to op temps before draining oil. I'll try to post pic of what I wiped off. I refilled with 7qts fresh oil and new filter and it clacked like a SOB for first five minutes then you could here a couple go quiet then the last ones went quiet and it sounded good and quiet. Same thing at start up this morning. Runs super strong but that long obnoxious initial clacking and junk on plug obviously aren't normal. I'm also going to cut filter open asap.

Do these OEM Lifters have any plastic in them ? If not, I am theorizing that despite paperwork I was provided showing the "Customer Satisfaction" service in which double roller timing chain and tensioner were changed the dealership may have never done the service and this could be pieces of the tensioner; the exact problem that was supposed to avoid. I may just pull front of engine and see if the tensioner came apart then have fight on my hands. I know when they did it on my current '10 I noticed none of the bolts up front looked as though they had a socket on them anytime recent. Everything looked exactly the same. Usually you see some clean bolt heads, etc.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2965222
09/18/21 11:55 AM
09/18/21 11:55 AM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
I'm tired...Very tired.
larrymopar360  Offline OP
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Central Florida
This was on drain plug. Imagine filter frown

5172FEE1-D9F6-444C-A57C-12BBA333556E.jpeg

Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2965228
09/18/21 12:53 PM
09/18/21 12:53 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 9,206
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
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My uneducated guess is either lifter guides came apart or timing chain tensioner. What do you think?


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2965640
09/20/21 06:48 AM
09/20/21 06:48 AM
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Central Pa
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moparjim79 Offline
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As you mentioned, chain guide or lifter nest/holder if it is plastic, and they both have been known to break. Now is probably a good time to start surgery. If you are yanking the engine, it will be easier to work on a stand, but as mentioned before, the in car route ain't to bad either. I would also add to the list of to do's-- remove oil pan and clean along with pickup. Please continue updating


Edit: im curious what the valve covers are hiding- that pic almost looks like sludge accumulate

Last edited by moparjim79; 09/20/21 06:50 AM.






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