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Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick #2963225
09/12/21 12:49 PM
09/12/21 12:49 PM
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Looking at a super solid '10 Pursuit with super high miles and engine/idle hours at auction and if I can get it for a good price I will buy. I really like the 10's and this one is clean but the tick is very pronounced.

If you were replacing camshaft and lifters in one right now what brand would you be going with? I read good about Johnson Lifters but I'm really lost in a sea of information. I don't want to change cam specs just possibly brands for durability.

Edit: I don't necessarily have an issue with going OEM. Just want to go with what seems to be best option now.

Last edited by larrymopar360; 09/12/21 03:24 PM.

Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2963417
09/12/21 09:19 PM
09/12/21 09:19 PM
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I have a 2010 power wagon with a 5.7 and have been chasing the dreaded tick for awhile.
Pulled the rockers and found the pushrods had the top ball worn badly on a few and some of the rockers looked like the pushrod hole had irregular wear so replaced the rockers with new originals and the pushrods with comp cams replacements that are slightly longer than stock.
Was a big improvement but still had a tick so replaced the cam and lifters with original parts…… the lifters are the upgraded oem replacements.
Sounded better after the new cam and lifters but still had a tick when hot so now have the heads rebuilt with new stainless valves with hardened tips….. my original high mileage valves showed lots of wear on the tips.
Came to the conclusion I will run the best synthetic oil possible in these engines t help slow down the wear.

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2963432
09/12/21 10:13 PM
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I bought a 2011 for my son it had a tick. I bought a 6.4 SRT cam and the new upgraded lifters. Used the Mopar performance springs and new pushrods. I found the valve tips worn really bad and digging into it I found the rocker has worn the shafts and actually wore the oil holes closed on the shaft. I had all the valves replaced and bought all new rockers. Noise is gone and it ran perfect with no tune. I did have it tuned it made 388 at the rear tires with just the cam swap. if your going to do it buy the srt cam its way cheaper then aftermarket and they run better. My buddy tunes these all the time and the mid range is great with the srt cam vs the aftermarket where you give up power down low and in the middle.

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: biff426] #2963986
09/14/21 11:48 AM
09/14/21 11:48 AM
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I've heard go with srt cam but worried about if tune was a necessity. I realize there's probably going to be a need for valve springs and possibly push rods and rockers as well when these things are taken apart. I guess the whole top end may be needing refurb. Then water pump and timing chain while apart.

I probably should've described the noise as a clack and loud instead of the tick by the way. They tell me it will go away at times but at start up sometimes it is there, and LOUD and takes quite awhile to go away.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2964140
09/14/21 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by larrymopar360
I've heard go with srt cam but worried about if tune was a necessity. I realize there's probably going to be a need for valve springs and possibly push rods and rockers as well when these things are taken apart. I guess the whole top end may be needing refurb. Then water pump and timing chain while apart.

I probably should've described the noise as a clack and loud instead of the tick by the way. They tell me it will go away at times but at start up sometimes it is there, and LOUD and takes quite awhile to go away.


Thats the same thing my mds lifters did and then the sound DIDNT go away.

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: moparjim79] #2964354
09/15/21 11:57 AM
09/15/21 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by moparjim79
Originally Posted by larrymopar360
I've heard go with srt cam but worried about if tune was a necessity. I realize there's probably going to be a need for valve springs and possibly push rods and rockers as well when these things are taken apart. I guess the whole top end may be needing refurb. Then water pump and timing chain while apart.

I probably should've described the noise as a clack and loud instead of the tick by the way. They tell me it will go away at times but at start up sometimes it is there, and LOUD and takes quite awhile to go away.


Thats the same thing my mds lifters did and then the sound DIDNT go away.
Yes I'm figuring that's the eventuality. Did you eliminate the MDS and replace cam/lifters?


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2964404
09/15/21 02:05 PM
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I was incredibly fortunate. After I removed the heads/pushrods/lifter packs, I used a borescope to check the cam lobe condition which was almost new looking. I also pulled the oil control valve and it was 100% free of metal shavings/debris. I replaced the cylinder 2/4 pack and all was well. Just an fyi, it did throw an mds solenoid code and very seldom threw a cyl 4 misfire code(the mds cylinder). My push to open the top end up was the aforementioned clacking that one day did not got away after start up and immediately threw a cyl 4 code, and made the vehicle run like poop. Doing an MDS DELETE, even if you do it yourself, even if you buy all your parts from a place like mopar parts direct.com, will still put you damn near if not well over the $2k mark. Anyone is free to try to argue, but once you tally up everything including securing a handheld and a tune, you'll see its probably closer to $3k. If you have the funds available I would totally go mds delete. I know HOTRODDAVE and I have our own opinions about this, but thats my opinion.

I guess a good question to you would be what is your intended usage?

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: moparjim79] #2964444
09/15/21 04:29 PM
09/15/21 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by moparjim79
I was incredibly fortunate. After I removed the heads/pushrods/lifter packs, I used a borescope to check the cam lobe condition which was almost new looking. I also pulled the oil control valve and it was 100% free of metal shavings/debris. I replaced the cylinder 2/4 pack and all was well. Just an fyi, it did throw an mds solenoid code and very seldom threw a cyl 4 misfire code(the mds cylinder). My push to open the top end up was the aforementioned clacking that one day did not got away after start up and immediately threw a cyl 4 code, and made the vehicle run like poop. Doing an MDS DELETE, even if you do it yourself, even if you buy all your parts from a place like mopar parts direct.com, will still put you damn near if not well over the $2k mark. Anyone is free to try to argue, but once you tally up everything including securing a handheld and a tune, you'll see its probably closer to $3k. If you have the funds available I would totally go mds delete. I know HOTRODDAVE and I have our own opinions about this, but thats my opinion.

I guess a good question to you would be what is your intended usage?
Good info thank you. Daily drive usage no track time. More power always nice but no lopey idle wanted and a little less gas mileage is okay if it's believed that dumping MDS to go with different cam and lifters extends durability. I know that opens a whole new argument with many. Gotten more info on this car and it did clack badly at one start up, CEL came on (related???) and showed misfire cyl 4 and 7. No other misfires. I don't mind putting $3k ish into it and having a sturdy 5.7.


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Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2964446
09/15/21 04:40 PM
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I can almost promise you knowing now what you've posted, if you buy this you're doing a cam and lifter job. If you stick with stock, buy ALL NEW Mds solenoids along with all the other necessary parts, and lubricate the orings with something like sil glyde or super lube. I have never been able to remove a factory one, even on a 16k mile car, without destroying it. They are known to collect metal flakes and shavings like the oil control valve(which i would also replace while in there).

Since this is in a car, its gonna be an easy job. Please let us know what happens!

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: moparjim79] #2964468
09/15/21 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by moparjim79
I can almost promise you knowing now what you've posted, if you buy this you're doing a cam and lifter job. If you stick with stock, buy ALL NEW Mds solenoids along with all the other necessary parts, and lubricate the orings with something like sil glyde or super lube. I have never been able to remove a factory one, even on a 16k mile car, without destroying it. They are known to collect metal flakes and shavings like the oil control valve(which i would also replace while in there).

Since this is in a car, its gonna be an easy job. Please let us know what happens!
I shall thank you. I definitely am going into figuring minimally cam and lifters, probably valve springs and possibly push rods and rockers.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2965219
09/18/21 11:51 AM
09/18/21 11:51 AM
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I got the car for a good price. White '10 Pursuit. Zero rust a few small dings but overall very nice shiny paint good interior

First thing I did was dump the oil. It didn't look out of ordinary until I looked at drain plug. It had what appeared to be small black pieces of melted plastic attached to it. Definitely abnormal. It wasn't metal; I was able to smear it around between my fingers like hard but melted now plastic. I had warmed up engine to op temps before draining oil. I'll try to post pic of what I wiped off. I refilled with 7qts fresh oil and new filter and it clacked like a SOB for first five minutes then you could here a couple go quiet then the last ones went quiet and it sounded good and quiet. Same thing at start up this morning. Runs super strong but that long obnoxious initial clacking and junk on plug obviously aren't normal. I'm also going to cut filter open asap.

Do these OEM Lifters have any plastic in them ? If not, I am theorizing that despite paperwork I was provided showing the "Customer Satisfaction" service in which double roller timing chain and tensioner were changed the dealership may have never done the service and this could be pieces of the tensioner; the exact problem that was supposed to avoid. I may just pull front of engine and see if the tensioner came apart then have fight on my hands. I know when they did it on my current '10 I noticed none of the bolts up front looked as though they had a socket on them anytime recent. Everything looked exactly the same. Usually you see some clean bolt heads, etc.


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Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2965222
09/18/21 11:55 AM
09/18/21 11:55 AM
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This was on drain plug. Imagine filter frown

5172FEE1-D9F6-444C-A57C-12BBA333556E.jpeg

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Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2965228
09/18/21 12:53 PM
09/18/21 12:53 PM
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My uneducated guess is either lifter guides came apart or timing chain tensioner. What do you think?


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Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2965640
09/20/21 06:48 AM
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As you mentioned, chain guide or lifter nest/holder if it is plastic, and they both have been known to break. Now is probably a good time to start surgery. If you are yanking the engine, it will be easier to work on a stand, but as mentioned before, the in car route ain't to bad either. I would also add to the list of to do's-- remove oil pan and clean along with pickup. Please continue updating


Edit: im curious what the valve covers are hiding- that pic almost looks like sludge accumulate

Last edited by moparjim79; 09/20/21 06:50 AM.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: moparjim79] #2965744
09/20/21 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by moparjim79
I was incredibly fortunate. After I removed the heads/pushrods/lifter packs, I used a borescope to check the cam lobe condition which was almost new looking. I also pulled the oil control valve and it was 100% free of metal shavings/debris. I replaced the cylinder 2/4 pack and all was well. Just an fyi, it did throw an mds solenoid code and very seldom threw a cyl 4 misfire code(the mds cylinder). My push to open the top end up was the aforementioned clacking that one day did not got away after start up and immediately threw a cyl 4 code, and made the vehicle run like poop. Doing an MDS DELETE, even if you do it yourself, even if you buy all your parts from a place like mopar parts direct.com, will still put you damn near if not well over the $2k mark. Anyone is free to try to argue, but once you tally up everything including securing a handheld and a tune, you'll see its probably closer to $3k. If you have the funds available I would totally go mds delete. I know HOTRODDAVE and I have our own opinions about this, but thats my opinion.

I guess a good question to you would be what is your intended usage?


So you can hear the other side of the coin... 3/4 and one ton 5.7 trucks and manual cars do not have MDS and they still have the same exact issue, I have replaced a lot of them. If someone wants a picture of the cam from my current 5.7 3/4 ton non MDS give me your cell number, I can't get pics to load on here anymore...


I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!



Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2965747
09/20/21 01:10 PM
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I am very curious to see a double roller timing chain for a VVT engine, don't recall anyone making one, maybe there is a brand or part number on it


I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!



Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: HotRodDave] #2965849
09/20/21 08:20 PM
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So you can hear the other side of the coin... 3/4 and one ton 5.7 trucks and manual cars do not have MDS and they still have the same exact issue, I have replaced a lot of them. If someone wants a picture of the cam from my current 5.7 3/4 ton non MDS give me your cell number, I can't get pics to load on here anymore... [/quote]

I dont think anyone who's been reading through these forums is going to argue with your experiences too much, but im pretty sure in this instance, the mds schitt the bed. Both codes are mds cylinders, and a failed solenoid will not cause the issues he is describing. I can attest to your point that there is a good amount of proof online that non mds lifters fail, im just not seeing it at the rate the mds do.

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: moparjim79] #2966956
09/24/21 09:57 AM
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From what I've seen online it seems like even MDS cars the non MDS lifters are failing in about the same numbers as the MDS ones are.

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: 5thAve] #2967462
09/26/21 09:11 AM
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steel chain rubbing on plastic chains/tensioners//// STUPID ASS DESIGN. Why couldnt they have used metal sprockets on needle/roller bearings instead? think about it.. steel on plastic. Recipe for disaster. Ad the thermal cycling of the plastic, and what dont get eaten up by the chain rub will get brittle and crack. I'll stay with 318/360, thanks. The 2.7s came out before these ever did/ I would have thought they learned their lesson on those turds.

Last edited by volaredon; 09/26/21 09:12 AM.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: moparjim79] #2967482
09/26/21 11:12 AM
09/26/21 11:12 AM
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I have posted many times in the past that the real tragedy of the whole MDS is that
simply going to a numerically lower differential ratio yields more fuel economy improvement
than running a V8 in 4 cylinder mode.

Mr & Mrs Joe Blow driver believe that
a vehicle that downshifts is “weak”
and also believe that a CVT is a weird RPM changing “evil spirit”.

I wish I had a penny out of every $ of fuel thrown away by MDS in the USA that would have been saved by transmission/diff setups with higher than 40 MPH per 1000 rpm.

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: 360view] #2967498
09/26/21 12:17 PM
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HotRodDave I may have misspoken on double roller chain now that I research more. My mind is stuffed with various engines and info. My apology.

Mike I agree failure rate seems to be equal on MDS/non MDS. This particular car I'm working on is a pursuit with 153,000 miles and tons (I forgot the exact right now) of idle and engine hours so I have nothing bad to say about it. I'm just theorizing that maybe the dealership never did the tensioner despite the paperwork. Engine as gotten quieter and I hear the clack far less often since oil change. Doubt it's permanent so still researching and planning lifter/cam and we'll see what else when I'm in there. Looks like Comp Cams part #15820=16 or OEM Hellcat Lifters is the way to go for lifters.

Very interesting video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9B2jKRoCvOU


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Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2967970
09/27/21 08:35 PM
09/27/21 08:35 PM
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Food for thought
(Oil Pump) >>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkNOXWGXADM


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Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: racerhog] #2968145
09/28/21 01:01 PM
09/28/21 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by racerhog
Food for thought
(Oil Pump) >>>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkNOXWGXADM


Very nice video for the most part butt look at the cam and lifter at 7:30, that bearing clearly caused the chipping on the cam, if the bearing was perfectly fine it would not have been able to chip away at the edges of the roller path on the cam. As the bearing began to wear out it allows the roller to rock side to side and eat away at the cam not the other way around, a new lifter would ride perfectly smoothly on the center of the worn cam lobe. If as he says it was a cam hardening issue how come it happens mostly on one particular lobe? If it was cam hardening issue all the lobes would show the same evidence of failure, most of the cams I have swapped were almost if not all of the damage is on only one lobe, one with a roller that no longer rolls. I would like to see someone with the proper tools do a hardness test on some cams from the pre-eagle engines and eagle engines cams and see if there is any difference, the lifters are clearly different from 03 to 08 ones.

Also after watching his video I went and looked at a BGE vs Eagle 5.7 pump rotors, the BGE has thicker rotors, looks like maybe .075 from the old eyeball caliper and at least the earlier BGE I have seen some bad cams so it didn't cure the problem. The BGE also has oil squirters squirting more oil at the pistons witch is gonna get flung onto the cam by the crank as it tries to fall down, this extra oil did not solve the problem.

I am still waiting to see in person or even pics of a failed lifter with the big needle bearings... all the bad ones in my scrap bin and all the videos I have watched I could not find one with the big bearings that has failed.


I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!



Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: HotRodDave] #2968213
09/28/21 05:06 PM
09/28/21 05:06 PM
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Dave,
In simple terms in your opinion.. Are these mostly "Just Parts Failure" or Would you say and "Oiling Issue Failure" ?

* Most people just want to chalk it up to a design flaw, with not real fix or correction of the problem *
I have been on the fence about this for quit some time, But I'm starting to buy in more and more on the Oiling Issue as the cuprite of a lot of the failures? Not all, just a lot of what we see? Your thoughts please?

P.S. Sorry Larry for the Question to Dave... smile

Last edited by racerhog; 09/28/21 05:07 PM.

Bob(Cowboy)Hogan
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Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: racerhog] #2968226
09/28/21 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by racerhog
Dave,
In simple terms in your opinion.. Are these mostly "Just Parts Failure" or Would you say and "Oiling Issue Failure" ?

* Most people just want to chalk it up to a design flaw, with not real fix or correction of the problem *
I have been on the fence about this for quit some time, But I'm starting to buy in more and more on the Oiling Issue as the cuprite of a lot of the failures? Not all, just a lot of what we see? Your thoughts please?

P.S. Sorry Larry for the Question to Dave... smile
That's okay because it's all in an effort to figure out best fix! That video was also interesting but if the that theory of his is that it's not really an oiling issue but high idle times WILL create some issues, but really it's camshaft hardening issues, why did it go on and on about oiling????

Why wasn't his discussion on cams with better hardening qualities?


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Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2968273
09/28/21 10:23 PM
09/28/21 10:23 PM
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Isn't excessive idling a problem for many engines? I'd think that the lack of splashing and flinging oil at a 500 rpm idle would be trouble for any engine that relies on splash lubrication.
I have 368,000 miles on my 5.7 and the majority of those miles are at 65-80 mph commuting with the engine between 1800 and 2300 rpms. We are told to run the engine between 2500-3000 rpms to break in flat tappet cams so it seems that is the sweet spot to get oil flinging to the cam and lifters, right?

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: Kern Dog] #2968468
09/29/21 02:01 PM
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Kalispell Mt.
I don't want people to think I have all the answers, I don't think anyone does butt I just want to throw my opinion out there as I have worked on enough to see trends. I am just reporting what I see.

There are a few things that make me think it can't exactly be just an "oiling issue", I think if it was just an oiling issue it would be consistently one or a few particular lobes, I have seen no consistency of witch lobe is affected, most of the time it is just one single random lobe, I even try to take note of witch lifters no longer roll smooth on a piece of glass and see no particular lobe that is more susceptible. The early 5.7 and 6.1 never had this issue and at least the 5.7 in police service saw many many hours of idle time and I have never seen a bad lobe one one of the 03-08 5.7 or any 6.1 ever. They run the basically same idle oil pressure as eagle engines.

I tend to agree with what the factory seems to think the issue was, it seems they made smaller needle rollers (I suspect probably because they thought it would be more quiet) when they came out with the VVT engines, this needed a thicker roller wheel, that thicker roller wheel blocks more of the splash oil from getting into the roller wheel and lubricating the needle bearings and the fact they are smaller diameter means they just can't last as long.

Since the dealer parts guy pointed out the difference in needle bearing diameter to me I looked in my scrap bin and all the failed lifters had the small bearings as well as all the ones I have done since then, 100% had small needle bearings, others may have seen the bigger ones fail but I can't even find a single picture of a failed large bearing lifter on the internet butt there are plenty of people who claim to have seen them.

I try to buy cars and trucks with the failed lifters all the time (easy repair for me now) and the vast majority that have or supposedly have the issue are all 2009-2011, I see very few 12 or newer. I have not narrowed down the exact year they changed the lifters but 2011 definately had the small bearings and seems to be the worst year hands down and I had a 2014 ram 2500 5.7 I bought with broken springs and a local chevy dealer had already pulled off the heads for the previous owner and told him it needed an engine (it didn't) and it had the large bearings in the lifters. I put on new valve springs, reused the lifters and slapped the heads back on and 30,000 miles later is still running great.

I did have a 2014 6.4 BGE engine I bought with a flat cam one time, I honestly don't know what lifters came out of it, pulled em all out and threw em away before I knew to look for the difference. IF it had the same lifters as a 5.7 and IF it was small bearings that would indicate the change happened in 2014 model year but that is pure speculation on my part. It was basically a short block and I suppose it is even possible someone threw an old junk 5.7 cam and lifters in there, I put all SRT rotating assembly and eagle heads on it and ran it in my 2011 1500 (another I bought with a bad cam).

Like I have said before I do not remember ever seeing a MDS lifter fail, none of the cams still laying around here have a bad MDS lobe. If you think about it, any time it is operating in 4cyl mode there is basically no load on the lifter wheel so it should theoretically anyhow experience longer life. I have seen one bad MDS solenoid, otherwise the system seems flawless to me.


I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!



Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: HotRodDave] #2968514
09/29/21 04:10 PM
09/29/21 04:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,713
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
Stud Muffin
larrymopar360  Offline OP
Stud Muffin

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,713
Central Florida
It seems to me if doing an engine now with OEM lifters they must be manufactured after 2016?

I also would like to know if someone is advertising an OEM spec camshaft as a better iron than factory? I don't even know what the factory 5.7 camshaft material is tbh. Is it nodular iron? Does anyone manufacture one of better quality with factory grind?


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2971279
10/06/21 10:57 AM
10/06/21 10:57 AM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,713
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
Stud Muffin
larrymopar360  Offline OP
Stud Muffin

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,713
Central Florida
FINALLY got around to cutting the filter open. Nothing unusual to my surprise. Why that crap was stuck around the drain plug and not in filter is weird to me. I will say the K&N Filter appeared to be very good quality inside and the anti-drain back valve definitely worked as it still had a bunch of oil inside despite having been left to drain for weeks.

p.s. Car has been pretty quiet lately! I'm wondering if something was in a container of oil from production. I guess it could happen. I'm going to do another oil change sooner than needed and see if there's anymore of that plastic like crap stuck to drain plug this time. Sometime in near future I'll put water pump in it as preventative maintenance (been over 80k since and who knows how many idle hours) and probably pull timing cover while in there. That's of course if things keep going well and i don't suddenly go back to CLACK CLACK CLACK....fingers crossed.

Last edited by larrymopar360; 10/06/21 11:00 AM.

Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2971469
10/06/21 07:27 PM
10/06/21 07:27 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
Striving for excellence
Kern Dog  Offline
Striving for excellence

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
The water pump in my 2007 5.7 lasted 367,000 miles!

Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: Kern Dog] #2972668
10/10/21 12:46 PM
10/10/21 12:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,713
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
Stud Muffin
larrymopar360  Offline OP
Stud Muffin

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,713
Central Florida
Originally Posted by Frankenduster
The water pump in my 2007 5.7 lasted 367,000 miles!
Wow! I've read people complaining about the water pumps in these but I've never had problems nor early failures at work.


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Looking at '10 with 5.7 and tick [Re: larrymopar360] #2974303
10/14/21 12:47 PM
10/14/21 12:47 PM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,415
Connecticut
Ron_M Offline
top fuel
Ron_M  Offline
top fuel

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,415
Connecticut
In my 2014 RAM 1500, I had to replace the water pump tube at 55K. Not too bad of a job.


Common sense is a flower that does not grow in everybody's garden
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