I had a few issues with the clutch on my 71 RR 383-bench-4spd. When I purchased car, it was converted to an automatic and I had to round up all the parts to put it back to 4-speed. 69-RR transmission/bell housing, new clutch pedals, new NAPA 10.5" Diaphram clutch, z-bar, etc, etc. Clutch was working great, then later it was binding up and barely working. Could not get it to adjust, etc. Car is not 100% completed, but is up and running, mobile, so been working on it off and on along with other projects.

Finally got it up in the air and noticed that 1 side of the fork was not fully seated on the TO-bearing. After removing fork, it appears that the pivot bracket appeared to be slightly bent in a manner that moved the fork away from center of TO-bearing. I took it out and squared it back up, reinstalled and now the fork fits like a glove. But, now, the adjustment rod is kind of at a weird angle that the retaining clip won't go on.

So, I was wondering if there was a big block/small block clutch fork? If so, what are the lengths?

Currently, I have an NOS mopar one and from what I'm finding, there was only one for big/small block. But going to classic industries, they have a 10 7/8" one that fits both big & small block (CP7021), then they also list a big-block only, MD2515, with no length listed.

Also, to I need to lose the over-center spring on the NAPA diaphragm clutch? It was working fine before the fork/TO-bearing alignment problem started. The directions are long gone on the clutch installation.

Greatly appreciate any help.

Chris

There are several different forks.
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=102

And yes you should remove the large over center spring under the dash when you use a diaphragm pressure plate. You still need the smaller spring between the fork and the bell.

There are variations between the different diaphragm plates that are available. You may need to make a simple spacer to move the fork pivot closer to the pressure plate to correct the fork angle.