Instead of cooling the fuel, keep it warm so it evaporates better/easier. Warm and under pressure.

I had ceramic long tube headers on my 99 dakota R/T with around 12 to 1 iron head 410CID and those headers you could still hold your fingers on for a couple seconds immediately after getting back from running hard down the highway even before shutting off the engine, most headers I have seen will melt your skin instantly on contact after somethign like that. Under hood temps were much lower than most other header equipped cars. Something else I did on that one was I ran an airgap style intake but it would not have much access to cool air to flow under it so I removed all the webbing I could from the huge AC/Alternator bracket and ran a big mechanical fan (I normally run electric fans) to keep a steady stream of air flowing through there. I even glued a phenolic resin type plate to the bottom of the intake to keep the hot cam oil from heating the intake.

Other things I have thought about as far as ways to keep the air cool is to use plastic ducting instead of metal (Aluminum dryer ducting), you could strip all the paint off a metal air cleaner and ceramic coat that, obviously make sure you suck air from in front of the radiator not behind it.

Sometimes lots of little things add up to make a pretty significant difference.

I always wonder why nobody makes phenolic resin intake manifold gaskets for old motors, it would be a nice way to help keep heat out of the intake manifold when plastic intakes are not available.

Has anyone come up with a good way to run reverse cooling on a mopar engine yet?

I am gonna see if my local machine shop can put copper beryllium exhaust seats in an iron magnum head I am getting ready to put in my next MPG project... I had not thought about doing that.

What are everyone's tricks for safely running the highest compression possible on pump gas? Also what is the most compression you have seen run safely on pump gas?

I will share a few tricks that work for me

Coolest intake air possible
Keep as much heat as possible out of engine compartment, wrap headers, minimize restriction of air flow out of the engine compartment from the radiator
Keep fuel as cool as possible, heat wrap lines near exhaust, keep lines as far as possible from exhaust, phenolic carb or phenolic carb spacer
Very tight quench
Aluminum heads when possible
Sharp angle on intake valve to help break up fuel droplets
Fully radius and polish exhaust valve head to keep it from getting hotter than nessacary and keep it from heating the air in the chamber
Don't be afraid of ethanol fuel
Coolest plug that don't foul out
Very careful control of timing, tight distributor bushing, carefully curved distributor
Late intake valve timing or at least not too early
Coolest engine temp that is reasonable, usually 180* on the street for me
Slightly loose converter
EFI with return line
Smooth out or round off any sharp edges in the combustion chamber
Find injectors with as many spray holes as possible for the given flow rate needed
Plastic intake manifold if I can find one for the application to keep the air cool (no 6.1 or eddy intake for my hemi)
On the new hemi 6.4 I run the piston squirters and stick a bunch of computer heat sinks on the oil pan and filter to keep that oil cooler to keep the chamber cooler

No love for thermal barrier coatings ?
With high compression and low octane , combustion chamber heat can be reduced by coating the piston and chamber.
I have read some interesting results from this.

I am still undecided about coatings, here is why.

We know running aluminum heads can allow you around another full point of compression vs an otherwise identical iron head, the reason is it conducts the heat away from any hot spot faster so the hottest point in the chamber is no longer as hot and no longer as likely to pre-ignite the fuel. Same with the piston, the heat can spread out faster from any given point. Now we would add a ceramic coating that does the exact opposite...? It is possible I am missing something, maybe just keeping the heat from being absorbed in the first place outweighs it but my though is that it would just have a hot spot with the piston behind it still trying to transfer heat evenly through out but the surface could more easily develop a hot spot, sort of an in between of the properties of aluminum and iron...

One other thing I like to do that seems to work really well for me is running as flat a piston as possible, for example a 318 with stock flat top pistons, no valve reliefs set with a real tight quench and magnum heads let me get away with very high compression, lowest surface area possible for a piston to keep it from absorbing heat... it may be worthwhile to run a head with a bigger chamber so you can run less or no dish in the piston. I always prefer a perfectly flat piston if possible.

I am still undecided about coatings, here is why.

We know running aluminum heads can allow you around another full point of compression vs an otherwise identical iron head, the reason is it conducts the heat away from any hot spot faster so the hottest point in the chamber is no longer as hot and no longer as likely to pre-ignite the fuel. Same with the piston, the heat can spread out faster from any given point. Now we would add a ceramic coating that does the exact opposite...? It is possible I am missing something, maybe just keeping the heat from being absorbed in the first place outweighs it but my though is that it would just have a hot spot with the piston behind it still trying to transfer heat evenly through out but the surface could more easily develop a hot spot, sort of an in between of the properties of aluminum and iron...

One other thing I like to do that seems to work really well for me is running as flat a piston as possible, for example a 318 with stock flat top pistons, no valve reliefs set with a real tight quench and magnum heads let me get away with very high compression, lowest surface area possible for a piston to keep it from absorbing heat... it may be worthwhile to run a head with a bigger chamber so you can run less or no dish in the piston. I always prefer a perfectly flat piston if possible.