i should be able tap into the ing terminal? or both ing and starter (standard late 70`s relay) >> this is the unit i am using

If you are talking about the Starter Relay it only has terminals with constant power or power when cranking only. It is not powered when in the run position of the ignition switch.

The ignition should be powered when cranking and when in the run position.

I would suggest using the the existing ballast resistor power but probably before the resistor and not after it depending on the voltage required.

The ballast resistor is powered at cranking and running.

thanks i could not remember the set up , being a lean burn car sadly no ballast resistor guess i`ll tap into the fuse panel

What about tracking back from the original coil?

Some fuse blocks only have terminals that are hot all the time or hot only in run/accessory position but are cold during cranking.

What year / model of car?

the only way is bypassing the ballast... either splicing all wires together and removing the ballast completelly, Or attaching a jumper wire between ballast terminals. Then on that moment you can get the 12 volts on both Ign stages at + lead of coil or the ballast itself ( any side )

If whished ( or needed ) there is also a trick made with a diode on ballast jumper to keep it working like originally was with low voltage at coil while riding but feeding 12 volts on Ign1 circuit while riding also while cranking, what doesn't happen on stock setup. Of course this will require to tap the 12 volts source from the correct side of the ballast... ( blue wire ), but not from the coil + lead

IFFF a relay is able to keep activated at low voltage, you could use also a relay to feed it without touch the ballast or related wiring, BUT we must consider the low voltage side on ballast can be anywhere between 5 to 9 volts. Dunno if a relay could be missed at low voltages like that

If you go for the ballast bypass but want to keep the stock look and CLEAN ( no jumper wires visible ), you can remove the resistor from the ceramic groove on back and install the jumper wire between terminals there. This will make invisible the jumper and won't touch anything of the wiring. If going back in the future for the stock setup, just replace the ballast for an untouched one and done. Wiring will be safe.

The way i read it he said he doesn`t have a ballast because of the lean burn.

OK, dunno how the lean burn is wired or works soooo... I'm done LOL

if needing just a 12v source to run that RTR [?] distributor, tie ignition #1 and ignition #2 together, then hook to red wire of the distributor, while the black distributor lead goes to the coil -. correct ?
if not, please correct me before the OP hooks it up as i described an lets out the "magic smoke" !
wasn't there any instruction sheet included with that kit ?

it`s a 82 cordoba , the simple wiring set up has me thinking taping in to ing switch just looking for ideas on a different rout

When I switched to HEI, I spliced the wires going to both sides of the ballast resistor together and used that as 12+ volt source for the ignition

Edit- just saw, lean burn I think wiring directly at the switch would be the way to go, though back feeding "start" from "run" could be a problem

A diode will stop the back feed on the start circuit

I want to say that Chrysler had separate start run circuit that did not overlap contacts. I could be wrong. What I mean is that the run circuit only provided power to the ignition when in the run position and not in the crank position. When in the crank position a separate circuit powered the ignition.

If the run circuit has power when cranking and in the run position your problems are solved just tap into the run circuit coming off of the ignition switch and you are good to go. If the run circuit goes dead while the ignition is in the crank position (I am pretty sure this is the case) then you need to be able to get power from the run and start circuits separately and mix them in a way to not allow the electricity to be live in both all the time. One method is a diode or or use a relay. It will not hurt anything if the crank circuit bleeds over to the run circuit but it will be a problem if the run bleeds to the crank.

I am looking for wiring diagrams and I will get back after class.

This is the only lean burn diagram I could find and it shows a resister but it may not be accurate for an 82 because they made this system for many years.

I have allways though the lean burn system didn't had to do anything with the ballast existance or not and the diagram shown shows that. But since I don't know well the system I preffer to shut up about this

There is a ballast in there. Mine had it. Use the dark blue wire off of it.

Here is what I would do.

If it has a resistor (sometimes hidden) tap into that.

If it does not have a resistor tap into the run circuit on the ignition switch. Check to see if it goes dead while cranking. If not then use that to power the system but be sure the power to the system & coil power off when the key is removed.

If it goes dead when cranking then add a relay or diode to the system to power the coil during cranking without allowing the voltage to feed back into the crank circuit while running. I have more relays than diodes but a diode is cleaner looking.

just want thank for all the reply`s even tho i forgot to how to spell volt
so i got down to the car today and did find a little resistor looking block and one of the 2 wires was a nice 14 gauge blue wire so i`ll get a test light on it and double check again thanks for the replys

Either of those will work nicely. the diode is a bit easier IMO due to less wiring. I will also add if one is concerned about the diode failing, a bridge rectifier with 1/4" tabs will give you 3 backups

I like the rectifier bridge idea. That would handle plenty of current.

I am going to keep that in mind for future projects.