Chrysler production numbers and option break downs for 70s trucks were lost to history a couple decades ago. Warehouse fire maybe. As for fair market value, those numbers are all over the place for about the last decade or so. Tin grilles of any sort more so than Machos specifically. Unless it still has the equipment id label under the hood with the macho option code, I wouldn’t pay a premium for the roll bar, stripes, one piece of trim and a set of wagon wheels.

Not a very active place but maybe a better answer here: machopowerwagon.com

Can't ball park any kind of number without some description of what you're looking at and where. It's a Dodge, so most of the value is about the rust. Front fender heels and bed wheel arches are common spots but pretty straight forward fixes. When the floors and the rockers go, they take the end of the cab mounts with them, some fab required. Rad supports are a common problem and if 79/80, real hard to find replacements. Frame rail next to the gas tank is another spot to check. Factory original roll bars are very few and far between. Most common engine in any tin grille was the 318, so I'd pay up for something bigger. 440 is obviously the holy grail. Wasted interior plastic isn't a show stopper but can be a bargaining chip.

For one that's in rough condition, I price it based on the value of everything that's worth keeping. If I was starting with an empty parking spot, what would I spend to get this far buying it by the part. For something in solid condition, I price it based on how much it's not gonna cost at the body shop. Doing a clone isn't gonna cost any more than fixing an original so again, I'd only pay up for the option code on the equipment label if still present. It's a 1/2 ton 4x4 with a graphics package that a couple places repop.

It is a 100% rust free all original truck with a lot of patina. It’s a 360, four-speed truck with low miles. Short box and all the macho stuff in place. I would not restore this truck, but I would make improvements.

No such thing as a rust free original outside of Cali or Az. It's got rust, bondo or swapped panels somewhere. Mileage on the clock means nothing without docs to back it up. Way too easy to swap / reset and replace the pedal pads. Assuming daily driver or better condition, $5k max. In general, short beds are going for more than long beds. A/C and the buddy seat buckets are about the only value adds.

No such thing as a rust free original outside of Cali or Az.

I know rust and what to look for... I've also got a '75 Power Wagon that is rust free, always was and no bondo or panels patched or replaced. The Macho truck I'm looking at was from a rust free climate. AND, it is rust free, all original panels, no bondo, no panels swapped, all original paint and decals, really well preserved... One owner and docs for mileage...

B.S. I've had several CO, UT and NM trucks that were just as clean as anything from AZ which I've also have owned. Out of the over 40 Western 72-80 trucks that I've owned none had any rust in the roofs. Totally an East side thing. Floors and above the rear wheel wells and lower corners of the doors are the rust issues out here.
This 77 Macho came out of NM about 6 years ago. Paid 2500 for it. 360/727. It did need two quarter size rust spots in the door corners and a couple in the roll bar fixed That was it. Put a bunch of money and hours into it and then it eventually sold for 28,000 which is probably the top of the spectrum.

if you're such a freaking expert, price it yer self.

B.S. I've had several CO, UT and NM trucks that were just as clean as anything from AZ which I've also have owned. Out of the over 40 Western 72-80 trucks that I've owned none had any rust in the roofs. Totally an East side thing. Floors and above the rear wheel wells and lower corners of the doors are the rust issues out here.
This 77 Macho came out of NM about 6 years ago. Paid 2500 for it. 360/727. It did need two quarter size rust spots in the door corners and a couple in the roll bar fixed That was it. Put a bunch of money and hours into it and then it eventually sold for 28,000 which is probably the top of the spectrum.

I am an expert on paint, body and condition and I don't need to be told I don't know what I'm looking at by someone that bought a $400 rusted out mismatched pile. I know exactly what I'm looking at and the question that I originally asked was if anyone knew production numbers and values.

What's wrong with a rusted out, barely running, no brakes, $400 pile?? I bought it to plow my driveway and knew exactly what it was when I bought it. Hell, the seats alone are worth $400. Fixing the defroster and wipers kinda got away from me but no complaints. Truth be told, I almost like it better than my LRE which still has the original floor, rockers and cab corners.

Probably didn’t help that I then posted a couple examples of rust free trucks I’ve bought. Like I said, they’re few and far between. Kinda like rust free Aspens. I generally find it better to assume somebody doesn’t know what they’re talking about vs assuming the opposite.

Part of the problem with pricing it’s that extremely regional. Last week I saw a 77 RC pop up on craigs in Cali for $1k. On this coast it would be $4 or 5k truck. The bigger problem is that the Barrett Jackson crowd and maggot flippers are starting to catch on to these things and everybody on Facebook suddenly thinks their truck is worth 3x reality. A maggot flipper near me has a truck that was maybe a solid $5k 10 years for an ask of $15-20k. Haven’t looked lately but there used to be a regular flow of downright scary lipstick jobs coming out on NV for insane money on eBay. Some idiot has a 10k RC on FB for $25k right now.

A real deal, no BS, survivor LRE maxes out about $25k. Complete basket cases routinely pull $4k. Anything big block 4wd short bed is gonna a quick sale. Club cab duallys can be found for cheap. I don’t put Warlocks in the same category as a Macho because ya really can’t clone one without having one as a donor. If you’re looking at a tin grille anything in $10k plus range, it needs to be mint, built or too cool.

Post up a couple pics of what yer looking at.

I know rust and what to look for... I've also got a '75 Power Wagon that is rust free, always was and no bondo or panels patched or replaced. The Macho truck I'm looking at was from a rust free climate. AND, it is rust free, all original panels, no bondo, no panels swapped, all original paint and decals, really well preserved... One owner and docs for mileage...

That's a nice Macho moparmarks! How long ago did you sell that?

B.S. I've had several CO, UT and NM trucks that were just as clean as anything from AZ which I've also have owned. Out of the over 40 Western 72-80 trucks that I've owned none had any rust in the roofs. Totally an East side thing. Floors and above the rear wheel wells and lower corners of the doors are the rust issues out here.
This 77 Macho came out of NM about 6 years ago. Paid 2500 for it. 360/727. It did need two quarter size rust spots in the door corners and a couple in the roll bar fixed That was it. Put a bunch of money and hours into it and then it eventually sold for 28,000 which is probably the top of the spectrum.

That's a nice Macho moparmarks! How long ago did you sell that?

About 5 years ago

Drill the spot welds out and take the rear quarters off the box sides and you'll find the rust on any of these trucks. They had no internal galvanizing or paint on the hidden substructures, so even when you find a good looking truck that seems to have no rust and no holes, it's there and it's started .I put a mirror up inside my 85 w-150 and its the same. A friend of mine has a never winter driven 92 cummins holiday truck,the rockers and cab corners are out of it.
My ramcharger was a pretty clean pacific northwest truck with a few rust blems. When the bodyshop went digging they found the internal metal uncoated the surfaces covered in rust and some of the structural eaten away. The tub was disassembled, blasted, welded back together and epoxy coated.

There's no coating under the skins, doesnt matter if its from the 70's' 80's or 90's.
These things were built to last maybe 7 years and it shows.

You really can't make such a sweeping generalization of all trucks just because of your experience with a few trucks. There are rust free vehicles out there all over the place! It all depends on the climate and storage conditions the vehicle has been in during it's life.

No you're kidding yourself here, chrysler workmanship was never going to go the extra mile, the body shop even said from the start,the inner rust is what gets these trucks and makes bringing them back from the dead so expensive.
My RC was a solid truck, looked like minor rust repair, you can't leave raw metal anywhere and think it wont develop rust and won't spread.
The least a person could do on these trucks without total disassembly, is to maybe find a way to por 15 the inner structures through the bottom drain plugs and through the tail light openings. They weren't even sealing the seams all the way through or the entire length of the seams.
It doesn't matter if it spent it's life in the sahara desert, one car wash and the rust is started.

My RC is an American truck, friends cummins never saw winter.

If all 70's truck started rusting almost immediately there wouldn't be any around now without some intervention within a few years of new. They'd have completely rusted away by now. But there are some that are original body and even paint that have not withered away with rust such as my '79 from California. Yes cars and trucks from that era and of most makes were prone to rust but luckily many are "survivors".

Mine was considered a " survivor" . There just isn't much point into pumping 15-20k into the outside resto when you know rust is lurking within. This truck could have been prettied up and been nice 9/10 for another 5-8 years before the rust made itself known in the structure again. I'm in for another 8k over the origianl resto guestimate, but I will not only have a truly rust free truck but also a rust resistant truck. It's treated, sealed and rhino lined inside and out, as I intend to use it year round. It will now outlast me.

If out of the weather bare metal does not rust very much in 5-10% humidity which is what we have here.

Sorry to inform you but if you intend to use your truck year round it will not last in your climate. Tiny rock chips and metal welds stressing will invite rust in no time and you will quickly be back in the same position before you started. That is just the unfortunate reality using a steel vehicle year round in a harsh climate...

Have you ever seen rhino liner?

Glad to see a thread on the beloved Macho. So few around, especially here in the south. Bought mine about 15 years ago and would never sell it due to the fact that I couldn't replace it. Rust free 360 ci, auto, A/C purchased from the family that bought it new. Did a mechanical restoration on it but left the body as is, with the exception of a repaint on the roof and hood.