I think its a I, same as this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192937172529

Nice that they bail on the issue, As i mentioned earlier they used to be rock solid (no pun intended) but appear to have become quite lax on their QC over the last 5 or so years. With the new ownership I'm sure it'll improve though
Just wondering did they offer suggested lash settings ??

First guy was good. Second I called to discuss lifters on their page, he confirmed correct lifter, said it could be done with my Comp cam, but it’s on me.

I’m well aware.

I said I’m going to need different length push rods.

He agreed.....

end of call.

No hurry, I need more info anyway. Like who else can I buy from.

The early Pertronix I system have no safe guard to protect the HallCell from burning up if the ignition is in the run mode and the engine is not running, that's when they usually crap out, if you have to diagnose the engine for over 20-30 seconds without it running, but the key/ignition is in the run mode, disconnect the red Pertronix HallCell lead from the positive (+) side of the coil to prevent HallCell damage.... I assume your running the Pertronix I because you converted a Prestolite HEMI dual point?


MikeG

Yep, dual point Prestolite. I have heard about burning up if ignition left on and not running. Which I have tried to avoid.

To get above the min 8V minimum I convert the ballast resistor, dig out the resistor coil and solder jumper straight across, keeps the factory look, also easy to unplug cutting off voltage to coil when needed for ignition on troubleshooting. Looked at everything, not sure why it went bad, have 10.5v to module. Never had one go bad before and this one was early life.

I have a large stack of old Car Craft magazines from the mid 60's to the 70's. Browsing last night I happened to find an article from March of 1967 with Dick Landy explaining how he adjusts Hemi solid rockers, apparently he preferred a two step process.

I haven't adjusted rockers with the motor running in over 35 years. Granted I'm not Mr Landy but my cars have always performed well on the track and street. Wonder if a bit of that may have been a little BS to helps his competitors see his taillights ?

Talked to Ray Barton again this morning.

I am sending him a hydraulic lifter, one intake and exhaust pushrod for measurements and he will provide me with a solid lifter and pushrod parts solution. He also stated in this situation a valve lash between .006 and .010 is good, do it first cold and then do it again hot.

Were those his hot or cold settings?
If hot, I would add .002 - 3 when adjusting them cold using the EOIC method. Heat the motor up, do one side again using the EOIC. Reheat and do the other.

Been a while but yes I thought lash hot was different then cold. I asked if .006 to .010 is the correct lash, he replied yes for this situation. He said to set them cold, then go hot and set lash again. He didn't mention going more lash when hot or using EOIC method, but I imagine he presumed EOIC is how I plan to do it cold and hot.

I will be talking to him again when parts ready and will confirm his lash instructions.

Running parts up to UPS today.