"MoparMitch’s Challenger is a SCCA Solo II National Champion and has trophied over Gen II Camaro’s and Firebird’s. That’s classed competition.

But yea, $ for $ and effort for effort the Chevy will win out.

That’s true for most drag racing too…. So have you traded your Mopar drag car for a Chevy?"

No I'm still getting my 67 together. We do race a Gen III Fireturd in Champ and Lemons, going to try AER. Since Champ changed the points structure on aftermarket front ends, I would build a Mopar now. But we/I will have to ball this car up 1st.

We also dominated the most populated and competitive SCCA region for CAM for a couple of years both with the 70 Challenger as well as a 67 Valiant I built. And I PROMISE you, we spent far less than the Chevy/Ford guys did trying to chase us down, And when they finally beat us, they had twice as much in their cars and weren't beating us by more than a couple of tenths. I've got a wall covered in NASA, SCCA, NMRA and OUSCI trophies. All in T-bar and Leaf spring cars. Just because you can't figure it out, doesn't mean that the rest of us can't. Most people still think the development we did was snake oil, but the guys that have it know.

And the reason you don't see a lot of Mopars? because Mopar guys are pussies.

Well done, could you provide a top 5 list of mods? Or 10 if possible

Thx

Full Hotchkis TVS with Adjustable shocks
Wheels, tires, brakes and seats.
Car at 3500lbs or less
Motor that puts 400hp down to the ground
Go win.
Due to driver talent and ability to set up a car, your mileage may vary.

Well I'd be sad to ball up an old Mopar, that is my main concern...either by my own fault or another's. We race in leagues where 100+ cars show up. But if I find a decently priced Mopar, I'd probably give it a try.

A/MP...

Here's my thoughts:

Start off with a simple build that gets the car dependable, stable, and useable. This will get you out there sooner and give you something to work with. Simple upgrades will get your car fast enough for a begining level. Once you are on the track, don't worry too much about the car being fast, work on your driver skill set so you become fast. It takes awhile to get comforable out there, get used to cornering lines, brake applications, and use of the accelerator. Good drivers can make slow cars fast and bad drivers in fast cars are never really fast. Once you advance in run groups, consider heavy modifications or advancing to better platforms.

I can promise you that with basic upgrades on a stock Mopar platform, you can make a decent and fun car, without spending a lot of money. Deviating from stock geometry will no doubt be better, but at what cost and effort does it take, and is it worth it. My Super Bee is using the stock platform and perfroms quite well with a few simple upgrades. I'm a driving instructor for my work and have quite a few track days under my belt. I still find my Bee to be plenty of car for my purposes and really have no need to make it faster right now. Here's a link to my setup and I'll attach a photo so you can see it on the track.

Here's a link to my build over on FBBO - FBBO - B Bodies and Road Courses[url=https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/b-bodies-and-road-courses-my-super-bee-setup.220738/#post-911918299][/url]

Here's a last little bit of advice. Go have some fun, set your expectaitons low and when you exceed them, nothing but great things will come of it. DO NOT focus on being the fastest guy out there, that will happen when you advance your skill set. Smooth is fast and good drivers can make slow cars fast.

Good Luck
Mike

^^^ That's what fun looks like, with massive points for coolness.
If I understand the OP correctly, the goal is to have fun & go quickly enough to pick off an import/newer car or two.
I can tell you that the most fun I've had in my '97 Mustang is track days.
Compared to the fast cars, it doesn't have enough power, brakes, gear, or rigidity, but passing the racier-looking cars is priceless.
Wheels & tires, springs, shifter, strut brace is about it for mods. It's obvious to me just that adding stiffness and brakes would be huge improvements.
(Bear in mind my frame of reference is Vintage TransAm, specifically a '71 ex-Penske Javelin, a privateer '69 Mustang, and an ex-Shelby '67 Mustang.)
Mopars don't have as much road-course history as GM & Ford, wasn't Chrysler's primary focus.
I say find a light Mopar, follow the advice of those here who track theirs, and enjoy Life.
There will always be a quicker guy with a bigger wallet; focus on what you can do.

Replying to all above -- Regarding the costs for an old Mopar vs similar classified cars... in my opinion they are about the same.. go ahead and price the parts.. they are about the same. Back in my development days, Mopar suspension parts were available... just had to search and find them; some were custom-made, but no more expensive than what other car-brands would cost. In my history which began with SCCA pylon AX back in the mid 1970s, the single critical and determining issue was to follow your chosen sanctioned club's racing rules.. for allowable mods. All the cars in same classes had to follow the same rules. Tires were the single biggest expense.. and sponsorships from those tire companies (free racing tires) were extremely gracious and helpful... still happens today for the most gifted drivers in all racing sports.

I emphasize "similar classified cars" in my response... I don't care about the Vettes, BMWs, Porsches, Mazdas, etc, as well as the latest model Camaros, Mustangs etc... they could and should be beating me... regardless on a pylon AX course or HPDE/HSAX road course... tires are the biggest factor.. and, again, following the sanctioned club's classifications/rules. I recently ran an HPDE on a 2.0mile road course and had fun running my Challenger against a newer 392 Challenger... he couldn't overtake me anywhere (1/2 mile straight-a-way was his only chance)... and that was a blast.. as we both commended each other off the track.

The biggest overall factor of all .. is the nut-behind-the-wheel... the driver. I've had other drivers run my car in timed competition... and sure enough... they sometimes had faster times than me... more often than I care to admit.

I also want to add with emphasis... there is no need or reason to make extreme suspension changes in our older Mopars... unless you have lots of extra time and unlimited amounts of money to do so... and then you can claim and brag about all the work that was done... and the huge expenses... and struggle with results.. and try to find a class that you will be equally running against other cars with similar mods. I've seen some of those excessively modified cars in competition and most are all for show... and no-go.

^ mitch is 100% correct. You will have fun no matter hat, but read the rules of whatever league/class you are running in. If it is just track days or parking lot racing, just build it and go have fun. Some classes have restrictions on what you can use and what you cannot. For example in Champcar...formerly Chumpcar. Aftermarket stuff costs points. The Hotchkis kit would be 20 per spring and I think 25 per shock (if adjustable). Frame ties are not required because you have to have a super well built cage. The sway bar would be more.... Now since they have made aftermarket front ends 10 points, you could use a non t-bar with coil overs for less points.. wacky. Just build it and go have fun. FWIW I had a 67 coronet. I went with a PST kit, new XHD springs, Koni front, coil overs out back and a late Abody disc set-up. was night and day over the stock stuff.

simple car.

Tom's Valiant?

Was Tom's I've owned it over 5 years and have made many upgrades. Funny thing i get more complements for it than my AAR Cuda.

I built the car before it was shipped to George for paint and body. Tom did really well for the limited budget we worked with.

Yes he did I was very impressed with his driving. I added 3.55 gears, 380 hp crate motor, still underpowered. Better 4 speed, shifter, 13 inch Baer Brakes 4 corner, next is a 390 stroker and wheels that fit the car. Im running 315s in the rear 275s in the front. Tires are hard to get now. I preferred the 285s squared. Like I got it. Plan to run Track day events now. Occasional Autox. It's an easy car to drive. Thanks Tom great guy.

Very cool. We should link up at Sears Point or Thunderhill for the next NASA event. Be nice to see the Road Runner and the Valiant back together again!
My 440 is getting a bit tired and leaky, just picked up the 438 from the machine shop.

That's cool, I'm pretty close to both tracks, being a,drag racer I need track time, but I'm planning to run Thunderhill soon.

Dan, have you done any updates on your RR since when you were stationed at Mira Mar and ran it at the GG autox events?

you'll never go back to drag racing...lol

Car is good, ran it a Sears Point earlier this year to start shaking it out.
I had planned for the 341 Challenge again this year, but I'm not sure that the car is there. I think its mad after 10 years of storage. I've got a fresh 438 I just got back from the machine shop that I want to start messing with MPFI and the CNP stuff that AndyF and some of the guys figured out.
If I an get the 4.22's swapped out and track down a funky shimmy its sporadically having, I think I'll be at a couple more NASA events to close out the year and have the car ready for a 2022 season.

F A L S E.