Seriously? The grommets have to be replaced while inside the cowl area? That’s what it looks like and that’s how it reads to me and the factory service manual. The last time I did and he was on my diplomat and they were so hard to snap on I had to use a bench vice and these I’m going to have to do while in the cowl?! ‘79 W150. I don’t suppose there are any tricks to doing this.

The factory grommets have white lithium grease in the cavity already. Still pretty tough. Pull the cowl, remove the complete linkage assembly, replace grommets, now all you have to do in place is the one for the motor.

I used a small c clamp and a socket.

Forgot to mention I usually use Channel locks, those I can maneuver into the cowl and put a bit of pressure on things.

channel locks or pliers, two of them...one of each side of the bar you are trying to pop the bushing in...

taking the drive linkage out of the cowl is the easy way compared to wrestling around inside the cowl - I do all mine that way. Do yourself a big favor and take cell pics and / or mark the bits with masking tape because it's real easy to get one where another one belongs. I always end up popping another hood. The pivots are different L vs R, pay attention to marking on the bottom.

I will definitely take pics. Buddy has socket welded to big pliers I borrow. I’ve just never seen one in which you cannot assemble entire set outside of cowl THEN maneuver in and bolt to motor.

i took mine out and even with pics, i installed one wrong. put linage back in and had it backwards and the wipers would only go so far and then stop. rwg75 is correct paying attention is the big thing. i used the bushing from mopar dealer as they are way better than dormans.

Dunno what the FSM says but I do know ya can assemble the entire thing on the bench then slip it in.

Really? On a '79? Dang it sure doesn't look like it. The openings are so small. Sorry wish I had a picture to post.

these aren't that bad to do. mark the linkage before you take them apart, replace ALL the bushings, use a little grease and channel locks to pop them back on, and forget about it for another 30 years.

Get the linkage free of the wiper motor, unbolt the pivots, drop the whole assembly down, fish it out through one of the oblong holes on the side. Replace all the bushings on the bench, reinstall in the cowl, now all you need to wrestle with is the one bushing that connects to the motor. Factory bushings last the longest, been wrestling these things for near 40 years now. Had 4 Ramchargers, had to do them all, some multiple times.

Okay will do. I have the factory bushings. I learned that lesson with my Diplomat

do that one on the bench too - unbolt the drive crank from the motor. when it's all back together, run and park the motor before installing the arms.

thanks

Just pull the wiper transmission assembly and replace the bushings.

RWG is on the money, of course you have to remove the wipers and cowl panel, then the nut that holds the arm to the motor, then the four that hold the transmissions in place,and fish the whole thing lengthwise thru one of those cowl holes, I think it is second from the right.

Swap the bushings on the bench,, and throw it all back in, easy peasy. Minus the cuts from sharp edges,assembling the transmissions wrong, etc.
When I got ready to put it back together, I goggled around and found this, and corrected what I screwed up the first time testing my memory.

It isn;t really as bad as what you think it will be, when the linkage is assembled right.

OOPS sorry, not smart enough to attach the image of the linkage, you'll have to goggle it yourself I have it saved but can't post it.

I've done many of the assemblies on other Mopars I've had. It's just that when I pulled the cowl cover and removed the nut on the wiper motor and the three nuts on each wiper to free everything I suddenly saw how small the openings were to remove linkage (or more importantly to re-insert assembled linkages) and thought "no way". I've got one linkage alone is over two feet long, and tiny openings of about six inches and didn't see how on earth it's going to feed through without bending it. I haven't gone back to it yet but it sure looked impossible.

This picture isn't very good for showing things because I took it for windshield gasket but you can see how small openings are to maneuver back in assembled linkages. I thought maybe '79 and '80 were different. But you all are saying no so I guess I'll give it a shot. The openings are narrow and the cowl is not deep but I'll try.

How's the seal on that windshield?

I'm afraid to get it wet

I definitely took all advice. 3M primer, 3M butyl (I supplied both they had different brand butyl and no primer). Butyl both sides. Steele gasket this time Precision last time although Precision felt like very good quality. I try and keep out of the rain but I'll get caught in one. Right now I'm scraping the black plastidip off cowl as you can see and will sand and paint that area to protect and get back to wipers.