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Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: Vert] #2933358
06/14/21 09:18 PM
06/14/21 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Vert
Al Debivic, yes.


He did mine and it was perfect. Have you talked to him on the problem.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: Vert] #2933360
06/14/21 09:22 PM
06/14/21 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Vert
One more... LH side steering box.


Keep looking!

Last edited by Pacnorthcuda; 06/14/21 09:23 PM.
Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: NITROUSN] #2933366
06/14/21 09:36 PM
06/14/21 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NITROUSN
Originally Posted by Vert
Al Debivic, yes.


He did mine and it was perfect. Have you talked to him on the problem.


Left him a msg on sunday 6/13.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: Vert] #2933375
06/14/21 09:51 PM
06/14/21 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Vert
Originally Posted by NITROUSN
Originally Posted by Vert
Al Debivic, yes.


He did mine and it was perfect. Have you talked to him on the problem.


Left him a msg on sunday 6/13.



Did he convert your old wedge K-Frame? If you still have your old you could level the K and measure in degrees the gear box mounting and compare it to the Hemi one in the car. That would give you an idea. If every component was on your old wedge k frame and fit fine it has to be in the box mount. How does the steering shaft line up? You should see a severe angle there also.

Last edited by NITROUSN; 06/14/21 09:52 PM.
Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: Vert] #2933383
06/14/21 10:14 PM
06/14/21 10:14 PM
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Arizona
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I had a similar problem a few years ago with a re-pop B-Body k-member. Went crazy trying to fit the GenII Hemi into it. I used re-pop mounts and brackets. I thought maybe they were bad so I Then I bought a set of schmucker mounts. Same problem. Finally I took the K-member out, set it upside down on a flat table. I put four 6-8 inch blocks under each corner where the K-member mount bolt go. WELL, guess what,one corner had 3/8- 1/2" gap. The k-member was twisted!! But beside that, it seemed the distance between the passenger K-member side mount plate and the driver side mount were was too short. If they were farther apart then I could lower the passenger side down some more and level out the motor. Then I found a hemi K-member drawing in Jim Schilds 1968 Dart & Barracuda Authenticity Guide. I had it blown up to to 5 foot square so I could read all the number. The drawing shows a dimension of (22.22 +.12 -.00) between the mounts. Mine measured .360 to much. That's almost 3/8". So I got a JUNK repop K-member. So in the end I decided not to put the Hemi in my 65 sedan but put it in my 65 AWB as it doesn't use the factory K-member mounts. I probably could have fixed it by cutting off the passenger side mount and rewelding it farther out. As for the twist, I rigged up some super strong fixtures on my welding table to hold the k-member.and using heat and hydraulic cylinders I got the twist out.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: NITROUSN] #2934066
06/16/21 09:13 PM
06/16/21 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by NITROUSN
Originally Posted by Vert
Al Debivic, yes.


He did mine and it was perfect. Have you talked to him on the problem.


Talked to him today. He wants pics. But we both think bending the pitman arm 1/8th in (big end) in a press will solve this.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: Vert] #2934071
06/16/21 09:22 PM
06/16/21 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Vert
Originally Posted by NITROUSN
Originally Posted by Vert
Al Debivic, yes.


He did mine and it was perfect. Have you talked to him on the problem.


Talked to him today. He wants pics. But we both think bending the pitman arm 1/8th in (big end) in a press will solve this.


While bending the pitman could help that is not correcting the root problem. What angle is the column at where it goes to the gear box? If that is also off the K should come out and be corrected.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: NITROUSN] #2934163
06/17/21 09:46 AM
06/17/21 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by NITROUSN
While bending the pitman could help that is not correcting the root problem. What angle is the column at where it goes to the gear box? If that is also off the K should come out and be corrected.


iagree

maybe silly questions or maybe not.
1. I noticed the car is on a drive on lift +++++
2. Have you verified the lift is level. Bubble levels are nice but digital ones are readily available, inexpensive and much more accurate. Once you know the lift is level or how far off level it is, you can then proceed to step 3

3. One can assume but I would also verify that the car is level to the lift. If it is not something under the tire or a bottle jack along with the digital level reading obtained in step 2 will assure you are spot on.
4. # 2 & 3 have to be known and or corrected before identifying the problem.
5. Recheck your tie rod and oil pan
6. Before bending (band-aiding IMO) anything verify that the pitman and idler arm are matched for the application. It is not uncommon for these parts to get mis-boxed any where from the factory to the parts supplier.
7. If they are matched be aware that bending either will affect the steering linkage geometry

twocents beer

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: TJP] #2934181
06/17/21 10:27 AM
06/17/21 10:27 AM
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Car looks level according to the window frame, center link looks off.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: TJP] #2934402
06/17/21 11:14 PM
06/17/21 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by NITROUSN
While bending the pitman could help that is not correcting the root problem. What angle is the column at where it goes to the gear box? If that is also off the K should come out and be corrected.


iagree

maybe silly questions or maybe not.
1. I noticed the car is on a drive on lift +++++
2. Have you verified the lift is level. Bubble levels are nice but digital ones are readily available, inexpensive and much more accurate. Once you know the lift is level or how far off level it is, you can then proceed to step 3

3. One can assume but I would also verify that the car is level to the lift. If it is not something under the tire or a bottle jack along with the digital level reading obtained in step 2 will assure you are spot on.
4. # 2 & 3 have to be known and or corrected before identifying the problem.
5. Recheck your tie rod and oil pan
6. Before bending (band-aiding IMO) anything verify that the pitman and idler arm are matched for the application. It is not uncommon for these parts to get mis-boxed any where from the factory to the parts supplier.
7. If they are matched be aware that bending either will affect the steering linkage geometry

twocents beer


Lift is level, car is level, engine is level. Center link hits oil pan on drivers side. Is also over 1/2in closer to LH torsion bar.

Fun stuff now. Unbolting Pitman arm from center link, burred thread captured nut, shaft spins with nut, can't unscrew. Solution: cracked the nut off.
Pitman arm on steering shaft, soaked with PBBlaster, puller engaged, hard knocks with hammer. More puller tension, more hammer, more PB. Resting overnight under tension.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: Vert] #2934408
06/17/21 11:47 PM
06/17/21 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Vert
Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by NITROUSN
While bending the pitman could help that is not correcting the root problem. What angle is the column at where it goes to the gear box? If that is also off the K should come out and be corrected.


iagree

maybe silly questions or maybe not.
1. I noticed the car is on a drive on lift +++++
2. Have you verified the lift is level. Bubble levels are nice but digital ones are readily available, inexpensive and much more accurate. Once you know the lift is level or how far off level it is, you can then proceed to step 3

3. One can assume but I would also verify that the car is level to the lift. If it is not something under the tire or a bottle jack along with the digital level reading obtained in step 2 will assure you are spot on.
4. # 2 & 3 have to be known and or corrected before identifying the problem.
5. Recheck your tie rod and oil pan
6. Before bending (band-aiding IMO) anything and idler arm are matched for the application. I
7. If they are matched be aware that bending either will affect the steering linkage geometry

twocents beer


Lift is level, car is level, engine is level. Center link hits oil pan on drivers side. Is also over 1/2in closer to LH torsion bar.

Fun stuff now. Unbolting Pitman arm from center link, burred thread captured nut, shaft spins with nut, can't unscrew. Solution: cracked the nut off.--
Pitman arm on steering shaft, soaked with PBBlaster, puller engaged, hard knocks with hammer. More puller tension, more hammer, more PB. Resting overnight under tension.
** verify that the pitman arm is correct.. judging by photos, thats where i would be looking...

Last edited by ek3; 06/17/21 11:49 PM.
Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: ek3] #2934469
06/18/21 09:53 AM
06/18/21 09:53 AM
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. [/quote] ** verify that the pitman arm is correct.. judging by photos, thats where i would be looking... [/quote]

Read what he said. All these components were on his other K-Frame with no supposed issues.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: Vert] #2934636
06/18/21 05:34 PM
06/18/21 05:34 PM
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I saw another thread on this issue and the poster had noticed that with the center link in backwards they had clearance problems. I can't see from the photos if the bend is the same on both sides...

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: DarrenS] #2934703
06/18/21 09:46 PM
06/18/21 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DarrenS
I saw another thread on this issue and the poster had noticed that with the center link in backwards they had clearance problems. I can't see from the photos if the bend is the same on both sides...

Scroll back to page one. There is a pic showing the entire center link. Its not backward on my car.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: Vert] #2934715
06/18/21 10:32 PM
06/18/21 10:32 PM
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in my opinion, based on the photos, the steering box has to be moved or the arm changed..... maybe the holes in the new k member is off? bending it may get you there ...

Last edited by ek3; 06/18/21 10:42 PM.
Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: ek3] #2934772
06/19/21 08:58 AM
06/19/21 08:58 AM
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Seems to me that I would look at the K frame as the UN-common denominator???

Joe

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: jlatessa] #2934796
06/19/21 10:35 AM
06/19/21 10:35 AM
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All you need to do is lower the engine down on the passenger side mount. Your photo shows it's all the way to the top in the slotted holes. If you can't do that without messing up the bolt alignment on the driver side then you have a junk K-member.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: 410mopar] #2936207
06/23/21 09:27 PM
06/23/21 09:27 PM
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LH side has 1 bolt, no adjustment for insulator, and one thru bolt for mount. RH side "finds" it's own position, adjustment slots let it float to the place it should be.

Al has seen the photos. He's bending the Pitman arm approx 1/8th inch which should drop the other end approx 1/2 inch. I'll report back when I've put it on.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: Vert] #2936224
06/23/21 09:52 PM
06/23/21 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Vert
LH side has 1 bolt, no adjustment for insulator, and one thru bolt for mount. RH side "finds" it's own position, adjustment slots let it float to the place it should be.

Al has seen the photos. He's bending the Pitman arm approx 1/8th inch which should drop the other end approx 1/2 inch. I'll report back when I've put it on.


While that may make it work it is not what I would be doing. In my opinion bending parts that have to do with steering is a NO-NO.

Re: Engine is "tilted"... and stuck [Re: NITROUSN] #2936248
06/23/21 10:29 PM
06/23/21 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NITROUSN
Originally Posted by Vert
LH side has 1 bolt, no adjustment for insulator, and one thru bolt for mount. RH side "finds" it's own position, adjustment slots let it float to the place it should be.

Al has seen the photos. He's bending the Pitman arm approx 1/8th inch which should drop the other end approx 1/2 inch. I'll report back when I've put it on.


While that may make it work it is not what I would be doing. In my opinion bending parts that have to do with steering is a NO-NO.


There may be more variability than that in stock parts. It this works vs dropping the k-frame, its a huge win. You seem to think these are precision machines. Yet completely stock and never modified cars using the same wheels and tires have significant differences in rear wheel clearance. I'd prefer "perfect fit", but thats more of an engine thing. Except my Gen 2 Mopar hemi block has the fuel pump opening machined off center. Not a problem until I put a stock mechanical pump on... and the fuel pump rod didn't meet up with the mopar fuel pump. An electric pump, while more trouble, fixed the issue. Would you rather I pull and dis-assemble the engine, weld up the openings, and re-mill the block and bore a new pushrod hole? Or use a cost-effective fix? This isn't a funny car. It hasn't driven 500 miles in 18 years. I want it to be driven. I'm old enough it may need to go to a younger steward to care for, for some years, and again. I don't own it so much as take care of it. its a privilege to do so, but sad when I can't keep it driveable. Its also a 318 car, so I'm not guilty enough to keep it stock. Just looking to improve it while in my care.

Last edited by Vert; 06/23/21 10:31 PM.
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