This topic is 572 B1 org Part 4-Mock-ups
Here is my plan for posting progress:

572 B1 org Part 1-Buying Parts
572 B1 org Part 2-Component Observations
572 B1 org Part 3-Machine Shop Report
572 B1 org Part 4-Mock-ups
572 B1 org Part 5-Build Notes
572 B1 org Part 6-Dyno Results
572 B1 org Part 7-Track Testing

I did some mock-ups before sending the block to the machine shop: (So Part 4 is starting before Part 3….LOL

I did a block, head, and intake manifold mock-up in the beginning to check fit. It was posted in Part 1. Everything looked good.
Then I hand blended the intake, RB spacers, and head ports to match.

I also did a mock-up of the heads and rocker arms for pushrod clearance, see my post in Part 2.

Part 4-Australian Muscle Parts (AMP) Belt drive cam timing kit. Mock-ups

GregsDart posted in May 2021 that a couple spots on the BMP aluminum block needed clearancing for the AMP belt drive kit. Jesel says to check Mopar blocks for clearance also, but I don’t know if it hits in the same spots or not. In Part 5 I decided to use a Jesel cam belt drive instead of the Australian unit. I didn't like the interference with the ATI SuperDamper.

As part of my documentation, I measured the back side of the aluminum mounting plate/cover. This is useful for block interference/clearancing, but is not really needed to get the job done. Attached is a picture with some dimensions I measured. As Greg pointed out, the BMP aluminum block touches the belt drive “cover” near the oil gallery plug. From my measurements, the cover protrudes 0.375” inside the timing cover gasket surface. And the existing cast boss is only 0.22”, so about 0.155” needs to be removed. Then whatever gasket thickness you use will provide additional clearance.

The other location to note is where the crank seal area of the belt drive cover protrudes farther in (0.333”). The crank seal is inside this area, on the front side. The actual seal is not on the block side of the cover. I added that 0.333” step to the already 0.375” recess of the cover; So, the 3.75” dia area of the cover protrudes 0.708” from the timing cover gasket surface. I made a plastic fixture on the lathe the same 3.75” OD that slides on the crank snout to center it. I marked that diameter with pencil on the BMP block. From my measurements, the outer edge of that dia is about 0.74” depth at the corresponding location on the block. After doing the oil gallery plug area, I was able to slide a long 0.020” feeler gage between the cast passage and the AMP cover, even without a timing cover gasket; so it didn’t need any grinding.

My block was really close at two points, marked “1” and “2” in my picture. I wasn’t sure if the marks on my cover were from test fitting, or if they actually interfere. So I touched the block in the matching areas just to be sure.

Jim
That is really well done. Todd

Part 4-572 B1 org Part 4 Crank bearing alignment Mock-ups

Even before sending the block to the machine shop, I put the crankshaft into the block with some used bearings I use for mock-ups.
If there were any tight spots, I would ask the machine shop to line hone the block.
I put the crank in the block, torqued it to spec and the crank turns freely by hand (no rods, pistons, cam, or rear seal). Not even a socket, by hand.
End play was 0.004”

Checked out nice. Good crank grinding (Callies) and block line bore from the factory.
Part 2, Component Observations, has the crankshaft journal measurements I took. Link to Part 2 Callies Crank Observations.

Part 4- more Australian Muscle Parts (AMP) Belt drive cam timing kit. Mock-ups

I was checking the crank pulley installation, and noticed it would not go on all the way. My Callies 4.500” crankshaft has a large 2.150” OD at the location in this picture. Several people checked other crankshafts and some were about 2.00” OD and some were 2.15” OD. Most factory Chrysler crankshafts were about 2.00x” OD. If you have a crankshaft with the large dimension, the AMP crank pulley won’t clear and won’t go on all the way since it’s recess is 2.045” ID. I put the pulley in a lathe and bored the recess larger (2.163” ID) to clear my 2.150” crank. The outside of this part of the pulley is only for the AMP lip seal.

Sounds like you're going to have a full write up to send back to the belt drive mfg. They most likely haven't test fitted their belt drive to the combination of parts that you are using.

The AMP pulley will fit the standard factory Chrysler crank dimension.
I don't know if manufacturers other than Callies are beefing up that section. For a timing chain, it doesn't matter since nothing uses that OD of the crank. It is just a shoulder for the timing gear.
I posted a question asking people to measure other crankshafts. See the "Moparts Question and Answer" section. It would be nice to know in advance if anyone else like SCAT, Ohio Crankshaft, 440 Source, Molnar, etc are using the big dimension.

As of today (6/14/21) people have reported the following using the larger dimension: Callies, Eagle
Crank snout dimension Moparts Question & Answer LINK

Sounds like some of the same issues we had years ago are still there.

Crower I bought in 2005. 2.137

Part 4- Cam Endplay. Mock-ups

I put my cam in the block, and bolted on the AMP belt drive to check cam endplay.
I used a 0.035” thick timing cover gasket; and the end play was 0.025”
Time to think of a couple ways to reduce this. A thinner gasket is one way. Perhaps I can use a shim from a rear end installation kit to go against one of the thrust bearings in the AMP cam adapter. The shim would need an ID at least 2.13" and an OD less than 2.938"

Part 4 - Roller lifter link bars. Mock-ups

Another racer told me his roller lifter link bar for #8 cylinder was rubbing the rear of the block during operation.
The Comp Cams link bars have slots that allow the bar to move fore-aft during lifter pairs going up and down. His builder didn’t notice any block interference, but after running, it did hit the rear of the block in the valley area. So, I gave mine some additional clearance before sending the block to the machine shop to have the lifter bores finished to size.

After machining the lifter bores, I was able to mock-up my lifters for that cylinder. My initial clearancing was enough to avoid the link bar rubbing hard on the back wall, but there is some much possible movement in the Comp Cams link bars, it could slide to touch where I made clearance. So I will make more.

The last picture is from another racer’s BMP hemi block, that came from BMP with machined clearance at that location !

Part 4- Pushrod clearance. Mock-ups

During today’s mock-up, most of the intake holes needed another 0.010” near the top (compared to pre-machine work Part 2 clearancing). Since the final/actual lifter location on the base circle, and the final pushrod length, required turning the rocker adjusters about 1.5 turns from the factory supplied position (which was screwed all the way in, i.e. minimum cup sticking out.) So, at max lift, the pushrod end of the adjuster was a little farther from the valve than during Part 2 when I couldn’t put a lifter in the unfinished bushed lifter bores. My final clearance work changes the Part 2 distance “0.125 inch” to “0.145 inch”.

From Part 2:
The T&D 1.7 ratio rocker part number 8013, 5/8” shaft, paired rockers per cylinder will require elongating the pushrod holes in the heads toward the intake manifold side. The T&D catalog shows the #8013 set uses 0.080” longer rocker arms than the typical B1 single shaft per head setup. So that explains the holes needing to move toward the intake manifold, away from the valve side of the heads. And my first mock-up shows the holes do need that work, especially the intake pushrod holes. I used a 5/8” dia endmill and moved the centerline 0.125” toward the intake manifold side. The heads originally had a 5/8” dia hole for the intake pushrod, and a 3/4” dia hole for the exhaust pushrod. So moving the centerline of the larger exhaust hole with the 5/8” endmill had less affect than the intake holes. Pictures are in my post in Part 2.
Note, the 0.125” move is more important at the top, rocker end, since the pushrod will angle back to the same lifter location.

Did I post that I am using these big [censored] 7/16" dia pushrods?

Part 4 – Distributor Clearance. Mock-ups

I mocked-up one head and the MSD billet distributor in the block. I expected to clearance the head, but was surprised it required this much material removed.
Is this what other B1 head users have experienced? Or is it my castings?

Or is everybody using either a front drive distributor (belt off Jesel cam pulley) or this offset distributor now sold by Indy?
The Indy web site shows $895, but doesn't list the replacement MSD cap and rotor part numbers ???

Front drive is the way to go if you have a Jesel belt drive. Not sure you add a belt drive distributor to the setup that you have. The belt drive distributor solves a bunch of problems but it does create some new ones. I used a belt drive distributor on my 514 race engine and eventually figured out a cooling system setup that was fairly clean and simple. The last design I worked with used a SB Mopar water pump to push the water thru the engine and then one AN line on each side carried the hot water to the radiator.

LOL, not your castings.

the cap and rotor, i believe are stock ford.

Joe

Considering your investment up to this point, have you considered DIS? Cam/crank position sensor, module, coil near plugs, the parts are readily available.

It's pretty common, my friends engine was pretty similar. I had to tweak the CAD to the billet valve covers I made him by quite a bit as well.

is it simply due to a taller cylinder head ?
i know not apples to apples but whe i went to a TF270 head i had clearance issues and ended up grinding a ways on my Mopar cast covers and dist body a bit . No drama with 906 or stealth heads .

Tex